Changed everything on HW heater but still hot water runs out fast...

[homeby5]

Ok...I had a thread going earlier about changing my dip tube. I finally did it and the old one was ok. Installed new DT anyway.Thanks for your help on that one.

Anyway...I have now changed every component on my tank. Both new elements, verified 19 amps across each element when in operation, both new thermostats and a new dip tube. Also drained all the sediment from my tank. But my HW seems to still run out after 10 min or so in shower. It's a 50 gal dual element electric HW tank.
I'm dumbfounded. What else could it be? It's an 8 year old tank.
Thanks guys.

 

[Twowaxhack]

How many gallons per minute does your shower flow ?

What temp do you like your shower ?

What’s your cold water temp ?

What temp is your hot water ?

 

[homeby5]

How many gallons per minute does your shower flow ?

What temp do you like your shower ?

What’s your cold water temp ?

What temp is your hot water ?

I live in Key Largo Fl so my ground water temp is usually consistant at around 72.
Not sure about shower gpm but nothing has changed from before.
We have HW set at about 135.
I dunno...shower not steaming?
I do knownthis. Until about 6 months ago I could fill a standard 5ft tub with HW with no problem. Now...I run out with the tub half filled. As I mentioned, I changed everything on the tank and cleaned tank but still, not much HW.
Weird...huh?

 

[Rossando]

Sorry to hear you spent $$ and time on something but didn't get results. Let me ask you this does everything else get hot water or is it just the shower having temperature issues?

FYI 8-10 years is how long these water heaters last nowadays.
A few things to take into consideration. One is water flow into the water heater.
Two is temperature lat the WH and leaving the unit. If those are good then I think you have a clogged/bad cartridge within the shower fixture.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I live in Key Largo Fl so my ground water temp is usually consistant at around 72.
Not sure about shower gpm but nothing has changed from before.
We have HW set at about 135.
I dunno...shower not steaming?
I do knownthis. Until about 6 months ago I could fill a standard 5ft tub with HW with no problem. Now...I run out with the tub half filled. As I mentioned, I changed everything on the tank and cleaned tank but still, not much HW.
Weird...huh?

Turn the cold water off to the water heater. Then open a hot water faucet and drain the residual pressure off.

The water should stop. If the water is still flowing then you have a cross between hot and cold some place.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Post a picture of how the thermostats are wired.

Check for a hot water leak.

 

[homeby5]

Turn the cold water off to the water heater. Then open a hot water faucet and drain the residual pressure off.

The water should stop. If the water is still flowing then you have a cross between hot and cold some place.

I checked that. Thanks.

UPDATE:
I found the issue and I apologize for my false alarm with some misinformation.
My new Tstat stopped working. I just checked it two days ago when I changed my dip tube and between then and now it stopped sending 240v to the lower heating element. When i wrote this thread i had just checked it a day before but then it stopped. This is brand new one that is less than a month old. Sooooo...back to Lowes I go to buy another Tstat kit.
Thanks again guys.

 

[pasadena_commut]

Sooooo...back to Lowes I go to buy another Tstat kit.

Maybe buy one from the manufacturer, or at least from a plumbing supplier? Seems like the Lowes' product might not be a very reliable product.

 

[homeby5]

Maybe buy one from the manufacturer, or at least from a plumbing supplier? Seems like the Lowes' product might not be a very reliable product.

Yeah...but I called the manufacturer (whirlpool number) and they told me to go to Lowes and get the kit P/N they listed. They said they would sell me the same thing for more...

 

[pasadena_commut]

Let me see if I have this story correct:

1. WH stopped making enough water
2. OP swapped a bunch of stuff, including both thermostats
3. OP later found that the new lower thermostat had failed (determined how?)

Hypothesis: something in the tank is killing thermostats attached to the lower element. It might fit the data. First the problem killed the original lower thermostat, and then once it was installed, this problem immediately killed the replacement.

Does the OP still have the original thermostats? Can they be tested when not installed? Are they both the same model? If so, if the old upper is still good use it for the lower replacement. If that fails in short order that is more evidence to support the hypothesis, and it doesn't cost anything. If it doesn't fail then the WH should be back in service.

Do these thermostats have a reset button?

Reviewing work done so far, I don't see an anode replacement. That should be done by 5 years or so to prevent the tank from corroding. (Possibly longer if the tank originally had two anodes, but on models like that only one is usually replaced, so the interval eventually becomes the same because the unserviced anode disintegrates over time.)

 

[Ludington]

No, he said the upper stopped sending to lower. So upper is working, heating up the top.
But lower doesn't turn on. I might try using some jumpers to get power to the lower to just see if it works. Maybe it's in the internal wiring. Check between where it leaves the upper and hooks into the lower. It looks to me like l4 is always hot.
So if top is done heating, there should be 220 between l4 and t4 and nothing on t2.
Then you need to check the one connection on the
Lower therm, and the connection on the element to see if it's getting through the lower therm.

 

[homeby5]

Let me see if I have this story correct:

1. WH stopped making enough water
2. OP swapped a bunch of stuff, including both thermostats
3. OP later found that the new lower thermostat had failed (determined how?)

Hypothesis: something in the tank is killing thermostats attached to the lower element. It might fit the data. First the problem killed the original lower thermostat, and then once it was installed, this problem immediately killed the replacement.

Does the OP still have the original thermostats? Can they be tested when not installed? Are they both the same model? If so, if the old upper is still good use it for the lower replacement. If that fails in short order that is more evidence to support the hypothesis, and it doesn't cost anything. If it doesn't fail then the WH should be back in service.

Do these thermostats have a reset button?

Reviewing work done so far, I don't see an anode replacement. That should be done by 5 years or so to prevent the tank from corroding. (Possibly longer if the tank originally had two anodes, but on models like that only one is usually replaced, so the interval eventually becomes the same because the unserviced anode disintegrates over time.)

I know its confusing so here is the events in nutshell.
1- HW started running out fast so I checked and verified proper current across both elements and operation of both Tstats. All was good. I noticed the upper reset button would trip every so often (about once a month). I changed lower element anyway simply as a guess. Overtemp reset button stopped tripping and I went away for four months.
2- Returned home and HW still running out fast so I ordered a Dip tube.
3- Before I changed DT I noticed my breaker started tripping. I checked current again on both Tstats and both read about 19A (exactly what they should have) and were switching back. I could only assume Tstats were allowing both elements to cut on at same time intermittently. I called the number on tank and they told me the PN at Lowes to buy both Tstats. I replaced both Tstats and again, verified current on both elements as good and breaker stopped tripping. I assumed problem was fixed but HW still running out fast.
4- Next step was to replace the DT I had on hand. I pulled out old DT and it looked great but I replaced anyway. Soooo....at that point the only piece I hadn't replaced was the upper element because it was reading perfect (19A). So I replaced upper element anyway and again, verified operation and correct current of both heating elements.
5- At this point all elements, Tstats and Dip Tube was replaced. About a day later my wife told me that the HW ran out in shower again. That was when I posted this thread (assuming the TStats were OK since I just verified everything a day earlier). I then went to check element operation and discovered the Tstat was not turning on the lower element. So the newer Tstats went bad.
6- Replaced all Tstats again, tested all operation of elements and as of right now the HW seems to last at least better than before. Wife says the water stays hot. It appears all is OK now but I still haven't filed up the tub yet.
7- No...I haven't changed the anode because I didn't know that would affect HW capacity. I thought that was only for sacrificial protection of tank?
Thanks guys!!!

 

[homeby5]

No, he said the upper stopped sending to lower. So upper is working, heating up the top.
But lower doesn't turn on. I might try using some jumpers to get power to the lower to just see if it works. Maybe it's in the internal wiring. Check between where it leaves the upper and hooks into the lower. It looks to me like l4 is always hot.
So if top is done heating, there should be 220 between l4 and t4 and nothing on t2.
Then you need to check the one connection on the
Lower therm, and the connection on the element to see if it's getting through the lower therm.

The lower Tstat stopped getting power from the Upper. The upper didnt feed power to lower. I simply swapped them both out again and all seems good now.

 

[Twowaxhack]

This threads hilarious