Cast Iron Crack

[Obssc]

Long story short...camera inspection by rooter service showed a crack in cast iron waste line where roots were causing blockage.
After being given the distance of the crack from clean out, I dug a hole to investigate. The crack shown in the photo is right where it exits the foundation of house. Repair advice appreciated.....

Is it possible to repair crack (chipping out concrete around pipe and epoxing using fiberglass cloth wrap) or would a re-lining of pipe be the better, albeit more expensive, option?

Cast iron is going on 60 years old and some other decay was detected, although not yet creating problems.

 

[Obssc]

Since I couldn't figure out how to add more than one photo to my original post, here is the other one.

 

[phishfood]

Looking at the first picture, it looks like there might be a fitting hub even with the edge of the concrete. I could be wrong, though.

If there isn't a hub there, a better plan might be to chip away a couple of inches of concrete, cut the pipe off right at the crack, and again 6" outside of the building, and use no hub bands to splice in a new piece of pipe.

Patching from the outside with fiberglass mesh and resin probably won't be a mid term repair. I would expect the cast to continue to rust, and cause the fiberglass to separate from the pipe just slightly. Once that happens, the roots will be right back.

Either way, you are just buying time. As you have seen, the cast iron is on it's way out, so it is time to start saving for a major repair.

 

[Obssc]

Thank Phish.
There is no hub at the crack. Straight 3" cast through the foundation. So only a couple inches on one side and then six on the other would require maybe a 10" coupling?
Would you still consider this a mid-term repair or longer than a glass/epoxy repair?
May just have to bite the bullet and do the re-line....
Thanks again.

 

[phishfood]

I am not talking about using a long coupling, rather, splicing in a short section of new pipe.The reason I mentioned chipping away 2" of concrete is to get those 2 inches of good pipe to get a no hub band to seal on.

As long as the pipe beside the crack is in decent shape, this repair should be good for quite some time. If you use PVC or ABS for the short splice piece, make sure you use a "shielded transition band coupling" on each end instead of a regular no hub band. This has a rubber gasket that is sized differently on either end to account for the different outside diameters of cast iron and plastic pipe.

The hardest part of all this will be cutting the cast iron pipe. You need a fairly square cut. My tool of choice for this would be a 4 1/2" angle grinder, though a reciprocating saw with a diamond grit blade will work. Cutting right next to the foundation will be a challenge with the reciprocating saw.

But in the end, you still have a house full of rusting metal drainage pipe, that will continue to rust.