Bend in Copper pipes

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mohamad_aydi

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Hello,
I had a contractor come over and work on my water heater, I had a 40 gal and upgraded to a 50 gal. The copper pipes that connect the heater to the main water pipes were bent in an aggressive way to fit between the heater and the main water pipes. I explained to the contractor my unhappiness with his work and how I feel about it, I think that the way he bent the pipes restricts water flow and could cause future damage. I held some of the money that I agreed on paying him until we resolve this issue. Please see the pictures below and tell me what do you think, and if there are any suggestion on how to fix this problem please let me know as the plumber was trying to convince me that what he did is normal a practice.
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Hello,
If he replaces them with the same kind of material/ pipe we will run through the same exact problem, any other suggestions.
 
This work looks awfull and I am ashamed if this guy refer's to himself as a "plumber" as I like to belive that the real plumbers out here take great pride in their work, you are wise to with hold payment untill this is fixed. There is definatelly restriction and this is not normal practice at all.

what will happen is the pipe will quickly errode due to the restriction, not to mention that these copper flex connections often develop pinhole leaks over time. Many like the braided connections but I have seen on one ocasion a burst line and a lot of damage resulting, though they have a fairly good reputation. the preferred method is to hard pipe with copper to the tank and use Dielectic unions at the tank connection, this prevent galvanic action between the pipe and the threaded connections at the tank and willl last far longer than your tank will if done properly, and also allows for an easy switch years later should you replace the tank with a similar model.

:) make him fix that, it is unnacceptible and any real plumber would agree. :)
 
i notice something odd about the venting as well, It could just be the picture angle... is it possiblle for you to post a picture of the whole tank and the top of the tank where this vent is connected ?

I am not certain, but it appears to me that there is a problem with the draft hood assemblly.
 
I don't know if I can trust this man in doing any soldiering with copper and would like to get the braided S.S and install it myself. Any recommendation on the pipe diameter and what are the long term issues that I could have using the braided S.S as most of you recommended copper.

Thanks for your help, as the saw that I said to myself it's impossible for this kind of work to be acceptable.

Liquid I will be posting the picture tomorrow as soon as I get off of work.
 
Good eyes Liquid. The legs on the vent hood are bent almost completely flat. That can cause a real dangerous situation. The gas to the heater should be turned off until that is corrected. The guy that installed that heater should not be doing plumbing.

John
 
Guys,
I did some research about the water heater venting, and I came up with the following:
1) Your vent hood need to stand up on it's legs and be flat, as this provides air sucktion.

2) I did the match test, where you light a match close to vent hood and watch if the flame of the match is being pulled in.

So in order for me to correct the vent problem I will have to adjust the vent pipe ( make it shorter in my case ) to be able to have the vent hood standing up on it's legs.
 
thanks John.

Mohamad, yes you need to have the legs straight, there should be small holes in the top of the hwt jacket to accomodate this. as john has mentioned this is very dangerous, be aware of the symptoms for carbon monoxide posioning they resemble the flu and if you are experiencing flu like symptons go to the hospital and say away from ANY co sources for at least 24 hours.... this is no joke, who ever did that job should have their ticket cut.

on that not it is also a good idea to have a carbon monoxide detector in your house as they are cheap as chips and could save your life.

ohhh how I do hate those gas hose connectors... though there is technically nothing wrong with that I would suggest ( given that the original installer was some kind of retarded monkey dressed like a tradesman ) that you get a spray bottle and add 2-4 tablespoons of liquid dishsoap to it and fill it with water. take this solution and spray down ( vigerously ) any gas connections in that area as I would be extremely hesitant to trust that this guy did a proper job.

what you are looking for is bubbling of the soapy water on the joints, this indicates a gas leak.

untill the draft hood is fixed I would not fire that hwt.

IF there are gas leaks present then you must also turn off the gas as obviouslly this is very dangerous.

I would call the company and talk to the owner about this shoddy work.. you shouldn't have paid a dime for. if the guy who came out was the owner or a General contractor then I would take them to court as this is not only a matter of finace but that of personal safety, had you taken them for their word and not been suspicious then there is the very real potential for illness or even death from an installation of this type..

I appologise for my rant.. cannot believe this is the work of a "professional"
and I applogise it has taken me a few days to respond... have been buisy myself, heating season is Go time. :)
 
Sorry to double post but i had to add..

PLEASE.

do not pay the guy, and even more so PLEASE
Do not have this guy back in your house, you would be better off having the neighbours dog doing the work
 
Gents,
I man came back and made some repairs/ modifications. He crewed a 90 with a 4" long pipe to give me play and we installed the s.s braided hoses. He went to the roof and shortened the vent pipe makeing the draft hood sit straight on the heater. I made sure that thier are no gaps or opennings in the vent pipe. Please le me know what do you guys think, and once again thanks for all the help.

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The area circled concerns me. Is this just the picture angle or does this vent ducting have a big gap?

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Mark, i think its the poor lighting in the picture.

John, I dont think i have screws in mine either...


I'm glad you got those serious health concerns fixed! :)
 
the vant appears to exit the room at an angle. more pictures and side angles to see exactly what is going on. Glad to see the draft hood issue fixed but code requires a minimum of 3 screws to secure sections of pipe... still much better.
I would be curious to know also why the installer dint just connect the hoses direct to the hwt as I assume that is what these hoses are for and they have dialectic's built in ?

Dont care for the galvanized lines or the use of pipe dope on potablle water connections .

the combustion air ( i assume thats what the 6" duct to the right of the picture should terminate within 12" of floor level, this is gas code in canada perhaps different where you are.. it is so that cold drafts dont influence thae draft pattern of the draft hood on the Hwt.

it looks leaps and bounds better however
 
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