Basic Questions regarding tubs, tiling, toilet leaks

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amodoko

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Hey guys, I just have a couple of basic plumbing questions and was wondering if anyone could help me out. I'll post pictures below to show you what I mean.

1) First, I have recently installed a tub and wanted to check the new plumbing I installed for any leaks. So I went under my home (it's on a cement slab) in the crawl space and checked my plumbing. I had a friend run cold water in the tub, and had him fill up the tub to check the overflow, and then had him drain the tub and run the water for about 20 minutes. I did not find any direct leaks, however, I did find quite a few large droplets right around the perimeter of the drain. I think it's just condensation, but wanted to check to see if anyone that that this was normal and rust-safe since it is on the side of the steel tub that is not covered in porcelain-enamel. So is this amount of water expected and is it hurtful in any way to the tub bottom in terms of rust or anything?

2)Second, I had removed my toilet during the tub install and just reinstalled it. But there is a leak coming from behind the toilet where the plumbing attaches to the toilet tank from underneath. It is not coming from the lower valve, it comes from the attachment point near the tank. And it only leaks when the toilet is flushed. Does anyone know the common issues with this leak? Will plumber's putty between the plastic nut and the porcelain tank fix this leak or is there supposed to be a gasket?

3)Third, before I removed my toilet, there was a wet patch right around the base of the toilet in the cement floor (when we used to have vinyl tiles there, the tiles would get damp as well in that area). It is always damp. I never could find the origin for it. When the toilet was removed, the patch dried up, so the moisture was a result of the toilet being there and being used. When I reinstalled the toilet with a new wax ring and everything, the wet patch came back. If the toilet is installed, but not used for a couple of days, the wet patch will dry up. So it has to do with the toilet flushing. The leak doesn't seem to be coming around the base of the toilet though (even though there is no caulking yet, I don't think the caulking is the issue since even when the toilet was installed before with caulking, it would still form a wet patch). What do you think is causing this wetness. It's not totally troublesome, but whenever there is a minor leak anywhere in my home I would like to address it to prevent future damages.

4) My steel tub used to have its drain and overflow installed in a cement patch. When I had to put in a new drain and overflow, I had to chip away that cement slab and expose the crawl space underneath. Now I need to seal the hole up a bit and was thinking about using Great Stuff foam for this. But I don't want to seal up everything, just the gap between the tub and my cement floor to prevent direct cold air and pests from coming up into that space. If I don't totally seal up the steel tub, will it rust since it is not covered in porcelain underneath and the tub bottom will be exposed to some elements since my crawl space is just mud? The only reason I don't want to completely seal it up is because if there is ever a leak directly by my drain, it will simply just fall down into the mud crawlspace under my house.

5) Last and final question is when I am ready to tile my surround, I am going to use durock cement board... and I have watched some videos and read some information about this process. Seems that people suggest using quarter inch shims around the tub to create a gap between the durock and tub for tub expansion during showering. You then just fill in the space with caulking. I was wondering if people do this around the vertical joints between two pieces of cement board as well? To allow for expansion so your tiles and grout don't crack, etc. Here is a video showing the need for spacing between the tub and cement board. They mention this issue at 1:18 in the clip. Here is the link:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vwf4JkF1TAc]How to Install a Bathutb and Shower Surround with Tile - The Home Depot - YouTube[/ame]

Okay, sorry for the long post, I tend to write a crap ton, that's just my habit. I appreciate any information regarding my plumbing issues.

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On #2, are you 100% certain that it leaks only when flushing? Usually leaks when flushing come from around the flush valve, and show up on the tank to bowl bolts. The leak in the picture is more likely to be coming from the base of the fill valve or a cracked tank. Did you remove the fill valve from the tank? If you didn't, I would lean toward a cracked tank.

The wet spot on the floor. I would identify and remedy the cause of #2 before worrying about the wet spot. Water can be very "sneaky", and there is a good chance that there was a small leak at #2 before, got bigger, and has been causing the wet spot all along.

About the drops on the bottom of the tub. Is there any chance that the overflow is leaking?
 
1) This is not condensation. You have a leak in the pipes and if not fixed, it will cause mold and rot problems.
2) Toss that old supply line into the trash and buy a new flexible supply line to your toilet. I recommend a flexible stainless steel connector.
3) Pull your toilet and replace the wax ring. This will cause gasses, mold and smells to go away, and stop the seepage of sewage from under the toilet.
4) I've heard some use the expandable foam for this but I myself would seal up properly with concrete or other proven method.
5) The shims are only used so silicone could be used for the edge, adjacent to the tub, so expansion can occur without popping out your grout. It does not need to be applied to the cement boards. This should be taped with fiberglass mesh (like a drywall joint) and given a skim coat of thinset which is suitable for the cement board.
 
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I prefer the soft copper supply lines. They last forever and a day, you cut them to length, they look WAY better, are available in a variety of finishes, and are the hallmark of a pro who wants their work to look like it was done by a pro.

Yes, they are harder to install properly, without kinks, and in a timely manner. Which is why if I had to coach a friend or relative long distance through a toilet changeout, I would reccomend the braided stainless.
 
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