When my house was built Mansfield Stop and Waste Valves were used for the outside and under sink shutoffs. Several years ago I had a packing nut leak and was unsuccessful trying to repack it. I couldn't find another Mansfield valve so I bought another brand and used it's stem unit in the Mansfield body and it worked. I had been told that different manufacturers built to different specs and this might not work. I have another valve that is leaking and have not been successful trying to repack it. I can't find the the same brand that I used last time and am wondering if a different brand might work or I was just lucky. Are the body threads different in different brands or is the threading consistent? Is trial and error the way to proceed with fingers crossed?
Another Stop and Waste Valve Question
- Thread starter JIMMIEM
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Usually you can't interchange parts, I've used o-rings in place of packing and it's worked
You got lucky last time, as they are mostly different and easier then to repack then to kit bash parts. Did you actually try the first fix of tightening the nut and making sure the valve is firmly open. If that doesn’t work then remove the nut and determine what kind of packing and redo it.
How to know what size o-ring to use? Is it trial and error? I've seen o-ring kits with lots of different sizes but not sure what size range to get.
Thank You
arctic bill
Well-Known Member
also sometimes the valves have packing made of real packing material ie What is valve packing material? Packing is available in many varieties, including: graphite, carbon, PTFE, fibreglass, cotton, acrylic, and aramid. Valve packing materials are more limited, however. Although there are many types of valve packing, graphite and carbon fibre are amongst the more popular choices.
I’ve used a piece of my cotton sock and some plumbers grease. I also like to keep an M&M in my bellybutton but that’s a whole different subject
Yes, that should hide the lint!
I've tried using graphite but I'm still getting a bit of seepage. My big problem is reaching into the sink cabinet. The cabinet door opeing is 11 1/2" wide and I have to reach in and it's tough to work with both hands. I tried to wrap graphite but working with one-hand didn't work well. My plan is to remove the packing nut, insert a drill bit through the packing nut hole, wrap graphite or teflon around the drill bit, slide a socket over the drill bit and push the packing into the nut to form a 'washer' shape. Yay or Nay?
Use a basin wrench
I can get a wrench on the packing nut. My problem is wrapping the graphite or teflon thread seal neatly/tightly with one hand.......the door opening is too narrow to get my upper body and both arms into the cabinet. I was hoping that prepacking the packing nut would be the answer.
Try the o-rings just get an assortment and see which one fits ...unless you can't get in there to take the handle off
O-rings or washers was my next move. But, I removed the handle and packing nut and did the drill bit, socket, teflon packing technique I mentioned above. I did it yesterday afternoon and it is still totally dry this morning.
I also noted the size of the original packing washer so I will get some o-rings and washers for future use as all my sink shut-offs are the same type.
Thank You. Appreciate your input.
If you've solved your issue then leave it ,but I do use o-rings in place of packing
When you use o-rings do you go for a very tight fit or do you rely on tightening to spread the o-ring to complete the seal?
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Peanut, almond or plain?
So it's pretty snug around the stem,but not to big so the nut doesn't thread back on
Thank you
