When my house was built Mansfield Stop and Waste Valves were used for the outside and under sink shutoffs. Several years ago I had a packing nut leak and was unsuccessful trying to repack it. I couldn't find another Mansfield valve so I bought another brand and used it's stem unit in the Mansfield body and it worked. I had been told that different manufacturers built to different specs and this might not work. I have another valve that is leaking and have not been successful trying to repack it. I can't find the the same brand that I used last time and am wondering if a different brand might work or I was just lucky. Are the body threads different in different brands or is the threading consistent? Is trial and error the way to proceed with fingers crossed?
Another Stop and Waste Valve Question
- Thread starter JIMMIEM
- Start date
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Usually you can't interchange parts, I've used o-rings in place of packing and it's worked
You got lucky last time, as they are mostly different and easier then to repack then to kit bash parts. Did you actually try the first fix of tightening the nut and making sure the valve is firmly open. If that doesn’t work then remove the nut and determine what kind of packing and redo it.
How to know what size o-ring to use? Is it trial and error? I've seen o-ring kits with lots of different sizes but not sure what size range to get.
Thank You
arctic bill
Well-Known Member
also sometimes the valves have packing made of real packing material ie What is valve packing material? Packing is available in many varieties, including: graphite, carbon, PTFE, fibreglass, cotton, acrylic, and aramid. Valve packing materials are more limited, however. Although there are many types of valve packing, graphite and carbon fibre are amongst the more popular choices.
I’ve used a piece of my cotton sock and some plumbers grease. I also like to keep an M&M in my bellybutton but that’s a whole different subject
