There is a pressure switch for the aerator tank and one for the well. The aerator tank has its own pressure tank beside it.
I have no experience with that setup, not sure why the aerator tank would need a separate pressure than what is provided by the pressure tank and switch. Was the new switch you installed the same pressure range (IE: 40-60 psi) as the old one? Hopefully @Valveman will see this and chime in.
Yes purchased the exact same one. And the well and aerator tank both have their own pressure tank.
Ah, winter wheat. Brings back memories of my days on the family farm in South Central Nebraska and the Electrogator systems we used to irrigate.
That is why I do it. Planted hundreds or thousands of acres as a kid. Now I only have 5 acres as a hobby and to feed a few animals. Still using my Granddads 1963 tractor and wheat drill. My granddaughter was riding with me. Doesn't get any better.
"Should"? Good luck to you sir!
It's no longer knocking and shaking. But guess we will see.
Sorry I didn't reply sooner as you could have solved the problem for $525 instead of the new tank Band-Aid for $1000. Cycling on and off between 40 and 60 is what caused the tank bladder to go bad to start with. A bad tank is a sign you are damaging the pump from all the cycling. You can still add a Cycle Stop Valve CSV1A for $224 to solve that problem. But you could have gotten the complete PK1A kit with a new tank for $525. The tank you have is not nearly large enough without having a Cycle Stop Valve. With a CSV added that tank is much larger than needed but will still work fine. Not only will the CSV solve the cycling problem and make everything last longer, but will deliver strong constant pressure to the house like you have never experienced before.
