HoffmannFamilyPlumbing
Plumbing Expert
I just don't trust them 100%, but they can sure save your ass in a pinch, I stock a few of each size for just such an occasion, a pinch
3/4 repacement on main
- Thread starter Starcraft27
- Start date
Help Support Plumbing Forums:
I just don't trust them 100%, but they can sure save your ass in a pinch, I stock a few of each size for just such an occasion, a pinch
Starcraft27
Member
Thanks for all the replies. I will be soldering it all. Any input on if that the half circle that comes from the ground to the water line to the house can be eliminated by a 90 elbow? I"m guessing the half circle was specifically to avoid a 90, but I know theres a ton of 90s in the line soo?
HoffmannFamilyPlumbing
Plumbing Expert
Water piping is pretty straight forward, if a 90 will work better use the 90
If you can, post a picture of this half-circle. Also, I could never recommend a solder joint on a water service. Only mechanical fittings (Ford/flare).
Not to start an argument Caduceus, but why would you not want a sweat joint on a water service?
C'mon Phish, I'm always up for a good argument. Just kidding.
The short answer would be that there is usually water left in most services and steaming could affect the joint. It may seem okay at first, but will leak later because it was incomplete. That is mostly from a repair and servicing perspective.
The long answer is that copper water services are subjected to temperature changes and will expand and contract under ground. Flared connections are more capable of handling these ever-so-small axial movements without coming apart. A soldered joint will work itself loose and blow apart.
On HDPE gas services and water services the same thing happens. That's why it's necessary to install them "snaking" side to side in the ditch and not in a straight line.
I should have added that I do not recommend Shark bite or standard compression couplings on water services for the same reason. On HDPE water services only couplings/fittings that have a locking screw on it that tightens and bites into the outside of the service for a secure connection should be used.
I think that covers it. Now let's see who says that I'm full of crap, first!
The short answer would be that there is usually water left in most services and steaming could affect the joint. It may seem okay at first, but will leak later because it was incomplete. That is mostly from a repair and servicing perspective.
The long answer is that copper water services are subjected to temperature changes and will expand and contract under ground. Flared connections are more capable of handling these ever-so-small axial movements without coming apart. A soldered joint will work itself loose and blow apart.
On HDPE gas services and water services the same thing happens. That's why it's necessary to install them "snaking" side to side in the ditch and not in a straight line.
I should have added that I do not recommend Shark bite or standard compression couplings on water services for the same reason. On HDPE water services only couplings/fittings that have a locking screw on it that tightens and bites into the outside of the service for a secure connection should be used.
I think that covers it. Now let's see who says that I'm full of crap, first!
![MEISTERFAKTUR drain snake 2.0 [50 FT] - with drill attachment - Ideal plumbing snake for sink and drain unblocking - Solid drain auger for real DYIs! (50 FT - 1/4 inch)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41VwmTiOsgL._SL500_.jpg)
I do agree with caduceus. One of the towns that I worked in had a privately owned water company that requited type K tubing with flared joints. Along with a S bend in the copper before it entered the foundation wall and were it connected to there main line.
John
John
