Who makes the most accurate PSI gauge ?

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1911smith

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Hello All, That's my question. I am looking for a quality water pressure gauge so I can make sure my pressure tank bladder pressure is set correct to my PSI switch. Thank you.
 
Then you really want an air pressure gauge to check the tank pressure at the schrader valve............ which is checked with the pressure tank empty of water & set around two psi lower than the switch start.
 
Hello sarg and thank you for your reply. I have a very accurate tire pressure gauge that I used to make sure the tank was 38lbs when empty. I question the original water pressure gauge because of my brand new 40-60 pressure switch. When the pump kicks on, the water pressure gauge says 38lbs and not 40. Unless I am missing something, the gauge needs to be replaced. Not ?
 
I doubt the gauges are totally accurate and if your current one does not show signs of age ... meaning any rust or water inside the glass .... I would leave it alone. ( You could replace it and find the pressure switch is set a couple psi low from the 40 )
The switch can be adjusted but I've learned the hard way it is not worth messing with ..... be warned you could adjust the "large" spring to raise both the start & stop pressure BUT I will never adjust the small spring again ...... once it gets out of whack I just replaced the switch.
So..... Two options .... Drop the air pressure to 36 in the pressure tank ..... or use a 3/8 nut driver and adjust the large spring clockwise a half turn at a time to raise the range so it starts at 40.
( I would do option 1 ) Many YouTube videos on making the adjustments.
(Understand I am unusual in that I service our electric heater & pressure tank every six months and have replacement switches .. elements ... water pressure gauges ... thermostats ... anodes ... and ¼" pipe nipples on hand "just in case".) I have two wells ... one at the house with a 30/50 switch and one at the workshop with a 40/60 switch. The switches are the same .. just adjusted differently at the factory.
 
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I have been looking for a recommendation for a battery-operated tire inflator to replace the old two gallon luggable that I currently use. As I don't have any Milwaukee battery-operated devices I would have to invest in that as well. Thanks!

Where in Upstate do you live? I used to live in the Rome/Utica/Oneida area when Griffiss AFB was a thing.
 
I doubt the gauges are totally accurate and if your current one does not show signs of age ... meaning any rust or water inside the glass .... I would leave it alone. ( You could replace it and find the pressure switch is set a couple psi low from the 40 )
The switch can be adjusted but I've learned the hard way it is not worth messing with ..... be warned you could adjust the "large" spring to raise both the start & stop pressure BUT I will never adjust the small spring again ...... once it gets out of whack I just replaced the switch.
So..... Two options .... Drop the air pressure to 36 in the pressure tank ..... or use a 3/8 nut driver and adjust the large spring clockwise a half turn at a time to raise the range so it starts at 40.
( I would do option 1 ) Many YouTube videos on making the adjustments.
(Understand I am unusual in that I service our electric heater & pressure tank every six months and have replacement switches .. elements ... water pressure gauges ... thermostats ... anodes ... and ¼" pipe nipples on hand "just in case".) I have two wells ... one at the house with a 30/50 switch and one at the workshop with a 40/60 switch. The switches are the same .. just adjusted differently at the factory.
Hello sarg, Yes great advice on not messing with that PSI switch spring adjustments, I too learned that years ago. The instructions for those spring nuts are under the cover and seem simplistic until a person starts to adjust them and before you know it you have a $45.00 dollar piece of junk on your hands and need to replace it again! LOL Then when I feel brave enough to start messing with those two adjustments I pay very close attention so I can always put it make to original adjustment if need be.
 
The OP wants a recommendation for a "water" pressure gauge.
View attachment 47626
This is one of the many gauges I have been looking at and I am going to try a liquid filled gauge for sure this time around. They all seem to have their degree of + or - accuracy from what I have been seeing. I would just like to find one that is USA made and not China!
 
sarg, let me ask you this about pressure tank air adjustment. I have more faith in believing that a new 40-60 lb pressure switch should be really close to accurate for the most part. Lets just say my tank pressure gauge is bad and reads 2 lbs less and in reality the pressure switch is kicking on at the right time 40 lbs psi. So what would be happening and or what would I be noticing if my pressure tank air pressure was off, either too high or too low? When the pump kicks on, its pumping water. Even though I have a check valve on my suction side to the pump, I am not hearing any signs of the pump cavitation. So I am being lead to believe that my air tank pressure must be set really close to what it needs to be? Am I on the right track of thinking?
 
I've read on various threads where the pros suggest changing the tank pressure to achieve different results. ....... So setting the tank from 2 below to 5 below or more still functions the switch.
I'm not astute enough to know the variables.
 
I've read on various threads where the pros suggest changing the tank pressure to achieve different results. ....... So setting the tank from 2 below to 5 below or more still functions the switch.
I'm not astute enough to know the variables.
I am kind of in the same boat as you on this. I even called the water pressure tank manufacture to make sure that the pump needed to kick on at 40 psi and not 38lbs and the correct tank air psi for the 40-60 switch. Out of curiosity I have thought about trying different tank air setting to see what changes that could make, good or bad? When I ask why 2lbs below kick on psi, they told me so the pump has water. At first I didn't question that, but after, the well is what supplies the pump with water and the check valve makes sure the pump has start up water so the pump don't need to be primed every time on start up.

I think what they meant was, there would still be some water in the tank and then you would not risk air getting into the system when trying to fill an empty tank on start up. Maybe I am still not understanding this yet? I am a pipe welder and not a plumber! I have welded many hundreds of miles of pipe for what that's worth! LOL
 
As you are new to this forum and may not know about Cycle Stop Valves, one thing that you may want to investigate a CSV. A CSV provides much extended life for your pump, constant pressure akin to city water supplies instead of varying between 40 and 60, requires a smaller pressure tank, and saves energy costs.

I'm thinking Valveman will reply to this soon.
 
As you are new to this forum and may not know about Cycle Stop Valves, one thing that you may want to investigate a CSV. A CSV provides much extended life for your pump, constant pressure akin to city water supplies instead of varying between 40 and 60, requires a smaller pressure tank, and saves energy costs.

I'm thinking Valveman will reply to this soon.
Hello MicEd69 thank you for the info. I was just reading about those CSV and I am really curious to learn more details in how they work. For me, it sounds too good to be true if in fact everything I have read about them is true? That would safe huge money to keep from having to buy those larger pressure tanks and save on the pump from not having to kick on and off as often.
 
Because I am so heavily invested in DeWalt, I decided to go with their rendition of the battery-operated inflator.
Hello BlueSkyHigh, I am the same as you with DeWalt. IMO, back in the day before all these different cordless tools, Milwaukee made some serious quality corded power tools that were bullet proof! I still have them yet today after 35 yeas, they never quit working. LOL
 
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