Water heater draining through 'hole' in sewer drain cap?

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vnicholes

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Is this sketchy? The people (licensed contractor) who installed my water heater put the drain for the water heater directly into the sewer drain line (see pics)

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Nope. it requires an air gap and trap to drain like that. The easier and better option is to cut off the 90 and let it drain onto the ground. Its just condensate, it doesn’t need to connect to the building drain.
 
Call back whoever did this and have them change it and really the gas flex too. They almost got it right, but should be ashamed at themselves for the placement of that condensate! It is illegal, stupid and wrong.
They should insulate the hot piping.
Repipe condensate to the ground but be cautious as to the direction of the sewer and material.
Condensate is acidic and is fine in the ground but not if there is cast iron drain piping below it.
Navien makes a very nice acid neutralizer kit but not needed if you stay clear of the underground drain, so jog the condensate one way or the other.
BTW, the gas flex doesn't look like full sized for 199k BTU.
We normally use a 3/4" lever handle valve on the larger size commercial gas flex. Ashby Plumbing or CalSteam stocks it.
 
The gas flex line is plenty large enough if it’s at least 3/4. Check your specs.
 
I have not purchased a UPC book since 2003, and the online versions don't show the 2003 Table 12-13 "Capacities of Listed Metal Appliance Connectors for gas pressures less than 8 inch water column"
for 18" with nominal I.D. of 1/2" shows: 110 CFH (1/2" is what conventional 3/4" gas flex is)
For 3/4" I.D. (which is what the 'commercial' flex is shows 233 cfh so that is why everyone uses the bigger flex normally.
 
I use what’s listed on the connector then verify with my manometer while the unit is under high fire.

But I m picking up what you’re laying down.

Max pressure on these are right at 14” water column. 1/2 psi. These are the numbers for a straight connector, you bend it and you deep lose presha 🤓
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Last edited:
First, THANKS for the replies! This has been extremely helpful. I went out to check the gas flex (tag shows 3/4 in I.D.) and noticed there are actually TWO drain-looking pipes. The second pipe is copper and just open to the ground. Sorry, I should have taken better pictures initially. I have a couple better ones below.

Some addl info:
Water heater is a Takagi TK-540P-NEH
We recently had the sewer lateral replaced (complete with permit and certificate).
Also had the old cast iron pipes replaced w copper. I am not sure if this included the drain pipes. Q1: Should it have?

Q2: If I do indeed have cast iron drain piping right below here, will installing a neutralizer allow me to just drain to ground?
Q3: does the gas flex install look ok (at 3/4 in I.D.)?

Any other items you see wrong? So far I have:
- redo condensate drain (how do the new pics effect/change this?)
- replace sewer drain cap
- insulate hot water pipe
- turn on recirculation (this was not done at initial install)

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New sewer lateral, if plastic, then no problem running the pvc line to ground. I don't know what they used for the sewer but, you can ask the contractor. And, yes, a neutralizer will solve it. What your plumbing contractor did was so wrong, they MUST address this themselves.

If the gas flex is 3/4" id you are absolutely fine. And arguable re 1/2" i.d.
I don't know the capabilities of the latest Takagi gas systems.

The copper pipe that is open to ground is pressure relief and always ok as shown.
 
New sewer lateral, if plastic, then no problem running the pvc line to ground. I don't know what they used for the sewer but, you can ask the contractor. And, yes, a neutralizer will solve it. What your plumbing contractor did was so wrong, they MUST address this themselves.

If the gas flex is 3/4" id you are absolutely fine. And arguable re 1/2" i.d.
I don't know the capabilities of the latest Takagi gas systems.

The copper pipe that is open to ground is pressure relief and always ok as shown.
Hey breplum, where can I find one of those acid neutralizer kits here in the Bay area? Does anyone sell them locally? I checked Home Depot and Lowe's but no luck.
 
It’s limestone chips in a container that the condensate filters through. Raises the Ph. You could probably get a 5 gal bucket and some limestone chips and build one that’ll last 10x longer and 10x cheaper.
 
Two-wax speaks the truth.
But to answer your question, there are three available at CalSteam in Emeryville just below Ashby Ave and 6th St.
You would use Sch 40 PVC 3/4" pipe and fittings, not the plastic tube from the kit (which is more an indoor solution). It would be mounted in horizontal orientation.
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