Washing Machine Valves

[KULTULZ]

I would like a 1/4 turn washing machine valve. Apologies if I was confusing by referring to it as a ball valve. Does a 1/4 turn valve use a ball valve?

He is describing a 1/4 turn hose valve. It has a ball in it, correct?

 

[frodo]

yes, it is a ball valve, yes it will work perfectly in that situation,

i still do not like it. just a preference, next time you are at home depot, pick one up and open it.

bet you cant

 

[DFBonnett]

Most of the packing that I see is Teflon....is Graphite better? Also, would you recommend replacing the washers while I'm at it? I was just thinking that a new ball valve would be longer lasting, easier for my wife, and also easier to see if the water was ON or OFF....I always shut the valve off when the washer is not being used. Also, seeing as how this is a threaded connection it would be quick and easy to replace the entire valve.

I've used both Teflon and graphite successfully and found the graphite easier to work with. New washers are a judgement call. If you want easier for the wife, replumb a little bit and use a Watts valve like shown in havasu's post.

 

[JIMMIEM]

I've used both Teflon and graphite successfully and found the graphite easier to work with. New washers are a judgement call. If you want easier for the wife, replumb a little bit and use a Watts valve like shown in havasu's post.

Just out of curiosity, what is under the packing nut when the faucet is manufactured? Is it a bushing? Are there replacement bushings available which can be used to fix a leak instead of using the graphite or Teflon packing? If the handle is removed and the packing nut unscrewed can it be taken off the stem?

 

[frodo]

...................

 

[JIMMIEM]

FWIW, I'm a big fan of the Watts valve shown in havasu's post. Those sweat connectors can be rotated 360 deg after you loosen those screws in front so it is very adaptable. That being said, in your place, I'd remove the packing nut (valve bonnet), wrap 3 or 4 turns of graphite packing around the stem, then reinstall the packing nut. That will more than likely fix your issue and it's easier than other alternatives.
FWIW
YMMV

I was in a local hardware store the other day and noticed that they had the same type of valves that I currently have (picture in initial post). Employee asked if he could help and as it was slow day I asked if he knew what the rubber innards of the valve were. He took one apart and under the packing nut there was a washer which he was able to remove. Couple of questions: 1. Are most valves manufactured with replaceable washers under the packing nut? 2. Is the best fix a new washer or graphite packing? 3. Most instructions say use graphite packing....is this because it's quicker/easier?
I'm just asking to get some knowledge. Thank You.

 

[KULTULZ]

I was in a local hardware store the other day and noticed that they had the same type of valves that I currently have (picture in initial post). Employee asked if he could help and as it was slow day I asked if he knew what the rubber innards of the valve were.

He took one apart and under the packing nut there was a washer which he was able to remove. Couple of questions:

1. Are most valves manufactured with replaceable washers under the packing nut?

2. Is the best fix a new washer or graphite packing?

3. Most instructions say use graphite packing....is this because it's quicker/easier?

I'm just asking to get some knowledge. Thank You.

I would guesstimate most newer valves are manufactured to accept a packing washer. The actual packing string/thread was used in an earlier time. If the valve is machined for a washer, you replace the washer.

Now I have used thread in addition to the washer to quiet a noisy valve (I am not a professional).

There is also a grinding tool available to machine the seat of the compression washer to prevent leakage there.

Does this help?

 

[JIMMIEM]

Thank You. Speaking of an earlier time I remember seeing the plumber show up to fix a leaky faucet and he had the string which he wrapped around the stem.