Tying ejector pump discharge to existing drain lines

[chackett]

I am working on finishing my basement and I have a new ejector pit and pump I am installing. I hired a plumber, but he did half the job and vanished. Seems like I can finish myself though.

I am at the point where I'm going to make the connections from the actual ejector pump and tie it into the existing drain lines in the house. My installation is in the basement, and I'll connect the 2" discharge straight up to an existing drain line. I'll have to check, but I think it's a 3 or 4" line in the ceiling of the basement.

Anyhoo. The plumber that vanished on me mentioned something about putting an upside down p trap at the point where the ejector pump discharge connects to the existing drain line in the house. Is anyone familiar with this? Can you explain it further or maybe point me to a couple photos or anything?

Thanks!
Chris

PS - I also have a check valve to install in the discharge pipe on the way up to the existing drain line. Are there any recommendations about where to install the check valve? High, low, in the middle, doesn't matter?

 

[cdestuck]

I did the same thing with my sump pump. I bought a saddle clamp type of a connection which was fastened around the house sewer pipe. Then used a female threaded to slip connector to attach the 2" to the saddle fixture. Any plumbing house should have this saddle connector

 

[badgermilker]

The check valve should be low and a gate or ball valve should be after the check. Make sure the check valve is for a sewage ejector pump.the discharge line should enter a wye branch or combination fitting.

 

[chackett]

Thanks cdestuck and badgermilker. I appreciate you taking some time to help me out.

Well .. I got it all connected up and mostly everything seems fine. I just went ahead and cut the 3" drain line. It was surprisingly clean and not nearly as nasty as I expected.

In order to get the new 3x3x2 wye in the line, I of course had to cut a "section" out in order to make room for the new connector.

I had what I assume is a common problem where I have no left or right space to move the pipes in, so I had to use a repair coupling to get everything back together properly.

Unfortunately there seems to be a pin-hole type leak in the repair coupling. I would say 1 to 2 drops will leak out for a single toilet flush upstairs.

I hate to even ask, because I assume the proper thing to do is cut it all out and do it over?

Anyway, the ejector pump (it is a sewage pump supposedly will consume 2" solids) is all connected and tested working properly. The wye and all the other connections seem good and tight.

Oh .. and regarding the upside down p-trap. My neighbor helped me understand that is to protect the ejector pit and pump from wastewater coming through the line from other parts of the house. I was able to get that installed without any trouble also.

Overall everything seems good except that one repair coupling.

Thanks again!
Chris

 

[phishfood]

PVC repair couplings can be tricky. 2" I can put in all day and rarely ever have a leak. 3" I can usually pull off, but every once in awhile I will have a leak. 4", I think I have managed to get exactly one to hold over the years, fuhgetaboutit!

I would recommend using a banded rubber coupling instead of a repair coupling.