Slow Tub/Sink Drains. A Larger Problem? (w/ Pics)

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NTL1991

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Cranston, RI,
Hello Everyone. I've got the typical slow tub drain complaints, but I'm pretty sure the problem lies deeper than just a clogged drain.

To start off, my house is a Colonial-style 2 1/2 story 3-family home, built in 1948. Typical stacked bathrooms and kitchens. About two years ago, the kitchens and baths in all three apartments were gutted out to the studs. Everything came out beautifully. Now that I've recently moved into the 1st floor, the one thing that's really been bothering me is the slow tub drain. While showering, there's about a good inch of water that collects around the drain. When the water is turned off, it takes about 15 seconds to drain the water completely. I should also note that the sink also drains a bit slowly, too. With the water open fully, the level in the sink will rise until you shut it off a little or completely.

As for the shower, I've cleaned out some hair and gunk in the drain, and snaked the drain pipe. I've used chemical drain openers. Nothing has worked.

Now, I've been doing a lot of investigation/research in the basement looking at my drain pipes. Before I purchased the house, they replaced a section of the main soil stack (3" cast-iron pipe from the roof down to the 1st floor, where it is increased to 4", and then a 4" PVC pipe is Tee'd into a 4" PVC which runs to the front of the house where it exits through the foundation. On the other side of the Tee is a 3" PVC pipe which runs around the corner of the house, along the foundation wall to were the kitchens are stacked.

Originally, the drains from the sink and tub from the 1st floor bathroom were tied into a little 1.5" connection which is connected to the toilet drain. This drain is vented with a 1.5" or 2" cast iron pipe straight up which, I assume, ties into the main stack above the 3rd floor toilet.

Now, however, when they replaced the old pipes, they decided to run new PVC drain pipes for the sink and shower, but they capped off the cast iron connection, and ran the new pipes together and then down to the 3" drain pipe, the drains for the kitchen sinks. Now, the tub and sink are not vented correctly or (it seems like) at all.

My questions are, could this plumbing setup be causing the slow drains in the tub and sink? (Mind you, my 2nd and 3rd floor tenants have no problems what so ever with drainage problems). How could I vent these fixtures? For the sink, which has an S-trap instead of a P-trap, I've heard of using (not code compliant, of course) an AAV under the sink to help drainage. Are thee frowned upon by the plumbers of the world?

By the way, the tub is using a drum-style trap, as seen in the pictures. Can this be replaced with a proper P-trap instead, or would it be prone to siphoning? Would there be any way of properly venting this branch drain without running pipes through three floors above?

Sorry for the long winded question and all of the details. I've been bottling up all of this information for a while...

Here are some pictures of the plumbing situation:

The Main Soil Stack:
DSC08159.jpg


The Main Soil Stack with PVC Pipe:
DSC08155.jpg


Drum Trap under the Tub Drain:
DSC08156.jpg


New PVC Drain pipes from Tub (right) and Sink (left) (The vertical pipe extends down and Tee's into a 3" drain pipe:
DSC08157.jpg


Sink Drain line through floor:
DSC08158.jpg


Also, here's a diagram I threw together which shows the basic layout of my plumbing system:
DrainPlan.png


Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Nick
 
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From the pictures and the drawing, it appears as though the 1st flr lavatory and bathtub are unvented, as you have guessed. The quickest, easiest fix would be an AAV on the tub drain arm and another underneath the lavatory. I am not a huge fan of air admittance valve vents, but they do work (until they don't) and it is a lot easier to cut one of them in than it is to cut out walls to install a conventional vent.
 
An AAV on each arm should solve the problem. The AAV under the sink installed correctly would also remove the s-trap. You could remove the drum trap, cut in a wye and put a regular p-trap with an AAV installed in the wall above the tub and that should help also. You shouldn't have a 2"arm with a 1-1/2-inch p-trap longer than 8ft either but these changes should make a difference.
 
So under the sink, I'll be removing most of the plumbing. I'll have the 1.5" coming up from the basement, then a sanitary tee, then about 4" of PVC straight up where I would use a female thread adapter, which is where the AAV will screw into. Off of the sanitary tee horizontally would be the P-trap which would connect up to the sink drain. Correct?

For the tub, I'll be removing the drum trap, and replacing it with a proper P-trap. The AAV would be installed off of a wye which, like the sink, would have to be installed 4" above the weir of the trap. This also has to be less than 20" below the flood rim of the tub, correct? How far from the p-trap should the AAV be located, horizontally? Could I install the AAV with a Tee instead of a Wye, to prevent more fittings to compensate for the angle? I know it needs to be within 15 degrees of vertical.

Thanks for all the help,
Nick
 
http://www.oatey.com_AAV

So under the sink, I'll be removing most of the plumbing. I'll have the 1.5" coming up from the basement, then a sanitary tee, then about 4" of PVC straight up where I would use a female thread adapter, which is where the AAV will screw into. Off of the sanitary tee horizontally would be the P-trap which would connect up to the sink drain. Correct?

Yes. That is correct


For the tub, I'll be removing the drum trap, and replacing it with a proper P-trap. The AAV would be installed off of a wye which, like the sink, would have to be installed 4" above the weir of the trap. This also has to be less than 20" below the flood rim of the tub, correct? How far from the p-trap should the AAV be located, horizontally? Could I install the AAV with a Tee instead of a Wye, to prevent more fittings to compensate for the angle? I know it needs to be within 15 degrees of vertical.

Thanks for all the help,
Nick

Not sure where you got the "This also has to be less than 20" below the flood rim of the tub" I didn't find it mentioned in the Link on OATEY AAV But installing it above the flood rim is always better. If the drain backs up it could possibly leak.
Forget the wye and use a tee. You could try sticking the AAV up in the cavity around the bath tup or even lower the horizontal line a little
 
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Nice picture and drawing.
What did you use to make the drawing?
A professional CAD system?
How many hours did you spend on that. Very nice.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I thought I read somewhere (when reading about AAVs) that they couldn't be installed more than 20" below the flood rim of any fixture. I'll have to double check that.

The drawing was made with Chief Architect X2. I took a CAD I course in College and they used Chief Architect exclusively. It took me about 3 or 4 hours to build the house, dimensioning everything by hand, and then about another 2 hours to add the plumbing to the CAD detail. It's not perfect at all, but I wanted to throw something together to make the plumbing a bit easier to visualize. I love the program, it's very flexible, but it has it's quirks here and there. It's a very easy program to learn and use, but it also offers some powerful tools.

Nick
 
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I thought I read somewhere that they couldn't be installed more than 20" below the flood rim of any fixture.

That makes more sence. More not Less. I would guess that more than 20" below the flood rim would be the limit it could handle if the drain was to back up.

The drawing was made with Chief Architect X2. I took a CAD I course in College and they used Chief Architect exclusively. It took me about 3 or 4 hours to build the house, dimensioning everything by hand, and then about another 2 hours to add the plumbing to the CAD detail. It's not perfect at all, but I wanted to throw something together to make the plumbing a bit easier to visualize. I love the program, it's very flexible, but it has it's quirks here and there. It's a very easy program to learn and use, but it also offers some powerful tools.

Nick

I took a drafting coarse back in the day when they used pencils and sliding parallel bar.
I had a program called Delta CAD that was pretty cool but when I upgraded my computer a few years back it wouldn't work with new OS.
 
Not sure how you're planning on laying the tub out. You shouldn't put a tee on a horizontal line, ok on a vertical line. The AAV should be 4" above the trap weir. Mr. David is correct, above the flood level rim is even better if possible, in case of a backup. I was thinking of putting the wye on the horizontal line, one end of the wye will catch the tub with a new p-trap to replace the drum trap and the other inlet of the wye would turn up for your vent.
 
Not sure how you're planning on laying the tub out. You shouldn't put a tee on a horizontal line, ok on a vertical line. The AAV should be 4" above the trap weir. Mr. David is correct, above the flood level rim is even better if possible, in case of a backup. I was thinking of putting the wye on the horizontal line, one end of the wye will catch the tub with a new p-trap to replace the drum trap and the other inlet of the wye would turn up for your vent.

Could I use a Tee-Wye Combination, instead of just a Wye, in order to keep the AAV vertical?

Also, under the sink, I have a 1 1/4" trap that extends below the floor, and then ties (vertically) into the 1 1/2" right below the subfloor, where it Tee's into the horizontal 1 1/2" line. Should I extend this 1 1/2" up through the floor and into the vanity, connect the sanitary tee, attach the AAV as high as I can get it, and then attach the new 1 1/4" P-trap with an adapter to the other side of the sanitary tee?

If so, what kind of adapter will I need to pick up to adapt the 1 1/4" drain trap from the sink to the 1 1/2" PVC coming from the sanitary tee?

Thanks,
Nick
 
A trap adaptor, also known as a Marvel fitting, will glue onto 1 1/2" IPS pipe, which is what the PVC pipe is. It will adapt to an 1 1/2" tubular compression fitting. There is a compression gasket available that adapts from 1 1/2" tubular to 1 1/4" tubular.

And yes, a combination wye and 1/8th bend (tee wye) would be the best for attaching the AAV.
 
Could I use a Tee-Wye Combination, instead of just a Wye, in order to keep the AAV vertical?
Not sure what you mean. See quick sketch. You can just drop the horizontal line from tub just enough to make room for a tee or a wye a few inches back from the trap. You can even roll the branch of the tee 45 degrees and the off set it to put the AAV up in the tub cavity


Also, under the sink, I have a 1 1/4" trap that extends below the floor, and then ties (vertically) into the 1 1/2" right below the subfloor, where it Tee's into the horizontal 1 1/2" line. Should I extend this 1 1/2" up through the floor and into the vanity, connect the sanitary tee, attach the AAV as high as I can get it, and then attach the new 1 1/4" P-trap with an adapter to the other side of the sanitary tee?

Yes extend the 1 1/2" up through the floor. discard the S trap
Use a P-trap under sink w/ a horizontal trap arm into branch of santee and AAV on top end of santee


If so, what kind of adapter will I need to pick up to adapt the 1 1/4" drain trap from the sink to the 1 1/2" PVC coming from the sanitary tee?

Thanks,
Nick
It's called a 1 1/4" slip joint x 1 1/2" trap adapter. Same or similar to the one on the 90 below the floor.
You can glue a spigot/street right into the hub of the santee


AAV mod.jpg
 
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