Single Handle Shower/Tub Faucet Replacement

[diyron]

I'm going to replace a single handle shower/Tub faucet and need some suggestions on removing the tile around the escutcheon plate once I've taken it off. Can I use a grout saw between the tiles and then start at the partial tiles around the faucet cutout and lift them off as needed.
(I need to reuse the same tiles on the shower). Is this the best way?

Also, I need to remove the faucet valve from the existing pipes (hot, cold, shower, tub). Do I need to cut all four pipes near the valve and place copper connectors and elbows as needed. Also, would quick connections work as well as soldered connections for this job?

As always thanks for the help and advice!

 

[johnjh2o]

Cut the drywall behind the tub to replace the valve.

 

[diyron]

Thanks for the reply. Makes sense. How do you feel about quick connects vs soldering in this case?

 

[havasu]

Quick connectors should not be used in a confined space. As a matter of fact, most professionals will never use them. If you can't solder, practice until you can, or pay someone who can do it for you.

 

[Matt30]

Replacing the valve from the backside is the best way. You have to solder the tub spout to the valve anyway, you might as well solder the rest. There's no reason to use quick flood, I mean, quick connect fittings

 

[diyron]

Thanks for the replies. Going to remove the drywall from behind the shower and practice soldering before doing the job. Appreciate the tips and insights.

 

[havasu]

I am also horrible at soldering. I saw a project that Frodo recently made, and in order to sharpen up my soldering skills, I am going to make this project.

 

[diyron]

I noticed a lot of valves have threaded inputs. When using copper pipe is it typical to use a copper male threaded adapter to thread into the valve and solder the open side of the adapter onto the copper pipe?

Thanks!

 

[phishfood]

Yes, but you need to solder a short section of pipe into the male adapter, then add thread sealant and tighten it into the valve. Otherwise, you run the risk of overheating the thread sealant, and having a leak from the threads.

I keep the threaded valves in stock on my truck, as I can adapt them to whatever pipe I might run into, but if I know I am going to be attaching to copper, I prefer a solder valve body.

 

[diyron]

Thank you for the reply.

How close to the valve do you usually cut the pipe? And once you cut the pipe, do you solder a coupling between the existing horizontal pipe and the new section of pipe to the valve?

I really appreciate everyone's help and patience. I'm learning.