Replacing shower faucet pictures with Q's

[cgallery]

Hello.

I'm trying to help my daughter replace a shower faucet.

My plans are to call a plumber in for the actual plumbing, but I want to have all my ducks in a row, first.

The current faucet is original to the house, and something is wrong with it, the hot water pressure is real low. The hot water pressure in the sink right next to it is fine. I found the replacement mixer for this old shower faucet at one point but it was pretty expensive (over $100) and I was told it may not fix the problem.

Seeing as this house is a single story house and piped with galvanized, and the pipes I can see in the basement look like they're rotting from the outside at least, I thought it was prudent to replace the faucet and piping.

There was no access panel on the other side, so I carefully opened up the wall to see what is required. There is a stud right next to the center of the faucet, so I figured I'd take a couple of pictures and ask what to do. I'm not sure if this complicates things drastically or what.

Looking at these pictures, I'm just looking for general advice as a good replacement for this faucet. Again, just looking to do a nice job and not a hack, so I want the right faucet on hand for the plumber and know what to expect, etc.

If you prefer full-size versions of the pictures, here are some links:

http://www.jpthien.com/temp/IMG_1950.JPG
http://www.jpthien.com/temp/IMG_1951.JPG
http://www.jpthien.com/temp/IMG_1952.JPG

 

[Mr_David]

the pipes going to valve, do they go straight down into basement where they are more accessible? Open up the other side of stud to expose back side of valve completely. open it all the way up to shower head and down to spout.
Install new pipe down into the basement where it is accessible.
galvanized steel pipe often scales up inside choking off the water flow.
if replacing with copper make sure they use dielectric unions when connecting to existing Glav. pipe. or you can have them redo it with PEX

 

[cgallery]

Thank you for your help Mr. David.

I have really good access from the basement.

So instead of opening the hole into the next bay, I had thought maybe a plumber would add a short (3-4") bit of copper or PEX after the elbow for that side, push it through the hole (from the basement, this would be easy), connect it to the valve, and then push the valve into the hole and finish-up the rest.

Is that insane? I think I saw that done on a home improvement show once.

 

[frodo]

I have encountered hundreds of old galvinised pipe houses.

the hot water line is usually the pipe that closes up first.

I would bet, that the valve you have, if not leaking, has nothing wrong with it, but that the galv. pipe going to the valve is obstructed

below, is a section of old galvanized pipe. and what it looks like on the inside.

to answer your question. heck yes, shove that pipe up there any way you can

 

[Matt30]

So instead of opening the hole into the next bay, I had thought maybe a plumber would add a short (3-4") bit of copper or PEX after the elbow for that side, push it through the hole (from the basement, this would be easy), connect it to the valve, and then push the valve into the hole and finish-up the rest.

Is that insane? I think I saw that done on a home improvement show once.

How do you expect him to crimp the joints?

 

[cgallery]

How do you expect him to crimp the joints?

Basically build an "L" that is fed-up from the basement, and pushed through the hole several inches (because the leg is longer than it needs to be). It is then attached to the valve, and the valve is now pushed into location and secured, and all the other fittings can now be crimped.

Does that makes sense?

I think it would be easier to demonstrate, than explain.

 

[Matt30]

Yea..it could work if there was no other way. However, if you hired me and expected me to do it, I would be cutting the drywall. You're making the plumbers job harder for no good reason other than you saw it on tv. You already have drywall repairs there, why not just do what makes the most sense and cut another piece out? Not to mention there's no way to secure the pipe in the wall. If there's a water hammer effect you will hear the pipe floppin around in the wall cavity when you turn off the shower

 

[cgallery]

Yea..it could work if there was no other way. However, if you hired me and expected me to do it, I would be cutting the drywall. You're making the plumbers job harder for no good reason other than you saw it on tv. You already have drywall repairs there, why not just do what makes the most sense and cut another piece out? Not to mention there's no way to secure the pipe in the wall. If there's a water hammer effect you will hear the pipe floppin around in the wall cavity when you turn off the shower

That was really an exploratory hole, to make sure there wasn't something back there that would preclude me from getting this done.

But the reality is I can cut the other bay up in five minutes while the plumber is unloading stuff from his truck. If he wants it out, I'll take it out.

Do you guys have advice on what to buy for a shower faucet, and where to get it? There are the typical home centers around here (Menards, Home Depot, Lowes) and I can also order online.

I'd just like to find something that isn't such crap that the plumber will struggle with it.

 

[Mr_David]

Moen Posi-temp is what we install. Small valve. easy to replace core.

 

[Matt30]

Another Moen vote

 

[journeyman]

i say moen and it cost the same to repair a 12 x 12 hole in drywall and a 4 foot x 4 foot hole. i agree with matt dont make the plumbers job harder than it has to be. not everything you see on tv is accurate

 

[cgallery]

i say moen and it cost the same to repair a 12 x 12 hole in drywall and a 4 foot x 4 foot hole. i agree with matt dont make the plumbers job harder than it has to be. not everything you see on tv is accurate

It is no problem-o. Sent the pics to a plumber, he will sell a Moen Posi-Temp for about $150. He says the quality is a little higher than the ones at Menards. I'm just getting a chrome one, nothing fancy. But $150 seems reasonable as the cheapest ones at Menards are $90. But if there is a problem with the Menards one, it is a show stopper and any savings evaporates right away.

He also said to open the wall down to the tub spout, and then open up the wall into the other bay. So I'll do that this Saturday and he is coming next week while daughter is out of town.

All seems reasonable, right?

He didn't say to open any higher. How much below the tub spout do you guys think I should go?

 

[Matt30]

He will need enough to maneuver a torch to make a solder joint. Just be generous