Removing 3 registers from one zone

[cbohaker]

Here is a common expansion tank strap.

https://www.holdrite.com/us/en/water-heater/restraints/quick-strap-expansion-tank-mounting-bracket

There are many different ways and options for air/dirt elimination. There's not a lot of room in your setup for one without some reworking of the pipes, but here are a couple of combination eliminator.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Caleffi...es-DISCAL-DIRTMAG-Air-Dirt-Separator-w-Magnet

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Flamco-FSADS-100-Flamcovent-Clean-Smart-Air-Dirt-Separator-1

Do you think I could put these filters in the crawl space right under where the pipes come back up before they transition to copper? That way I don't need to re-work all the copper lines.

 

[GReynolds929]

No, they should be right before the return enters the boiler piping. It's been working for several years without them for you. I might consider not messing with too much at this point.

 

[cbohaker]

Hopefully the piping didn't cause any damage... Although I do have some pieces under the house where they removed the old furnace and the inside of the black iron pipe seemed really smooth inside without corrosion. When I remove the registers and I check the internal filter I will post a picture for thoughts. Once the system is shut down and cooled how do I cut the piping with the least amount of water coming out? (I worry that when I cut the pipe ends at the registers every gallon of water will start gushing out). Should I shut the valves closed in certain spots? In post 1 is that a valve I can shut off?

Again, I really appreciate everyones time and you sharing your wisdom with me in order for me to complete this job. It's my wife's fault haha she wants the kitchen area to look nicer (Removing a wall to make room for our 5 children to play in the sunroom)

 

[GReynolds929]

If you know what zone you are working on I would turn off the pump for that zone, shut the yellow handle ball valve by the pump, shut the red handle ball valve on the return, connect a hose to the zone drain, run the hose to a floor drain or outside, drain down the zone, leave zone drain open, make changes, open yellow handle ball valve, let water run through the hose until no more air comes out, open red handle ball valve, if no more air close zone drain, turn on pump, check for proper operation.

 

[cbohaker]

If you know what zone you are working on I would turn off the pump for that zone, shut the yellow handle ball valve by the pump, shut the red handle ball valve on the return, connect a hose to the zone drain, run the hose to a floor drain or outside, drain down the zone, leave zone drain open, make changes, open yellow handle ball valve, let water run through the hose until no more air comes out, open red handle ball valve, if no more air close zone drain, turn on pump, check for proper operation.

What is your opinion on flushing the system? Should I flush it with white vinegar? How do I do that with my setup?

Edit: I found a video on how to flush.

Looking at the pump below:

https://www.harborfreight.com/plumb...-hp-submersible-sump-pump-3000-gph-63892.html

 

[cbohaker]

Good afternoon! I am looking to buy the oxygen barrier pex today (unfortunately it looks like I can only buy it in 100ft lengths). Should I get the 3/4 to match the register copper piping or the 1" copper in the utility room.

Note: 3/4 inch is much cheaper.

 

[Geofd]

You should put in what ever was taken out

 

[Geofd]

Lowe

You should put in what ever was taken out

/ Home Depot/ Lowe's does sell 20' lengths
Or try a plumbing supply house