Removing 3 registers from one zone

[cbohaker]

Good afternoon, I am new to plumbing but am confident that I can get this project done instead of paying someone around $1000 to remove 3 hot water baseboard registers. Currently there is galvanized pipe feeing the registers and the registers themselves are copper. My plan is to remove the galvanized pipe on the first photo and install a threaded pex fitting then feed from there to the next junction where there is a Y in the line. This will allow me remove the 3 registers in between using pex.. I have applied PB blaster on the threads in hopes to remove the pipes easily. My main question is at that Y on the second picture it looks like there are 2 shut off valves, is that what that is (I'm hoping so, that way I can block part of the water draining from the pipes)? Thank you in advance and any recommendations or suggestions are welcome! Note, I have 2 zones and this will only effect the one zone. These zones are fed by a Bosch Combi 151 natural gas boiler.

 

[GReynolds929]

Most likely black iron not galvanized as this is for closed loop heating I'm guessing. It does look like that's a short galvy nipple going into the flow control valve. Most likely going to have a hell of a time getting the nipples out even with penetrating oil. Need to make sure you use oxygen barrier PEX. Is the system glycol, are you familiar with bleeding air out?

 

[cbohaker]

Most likely black iron not galvanized as this is for closed loop heating I'm guessing. It does look like that's a short galvy nipple going into the flow control valve. Most likely going to have a hell of a time getting the nipples out even with penetrating oil. Need to make sure you use oxygen barrier PEX. Is the system glycol, are you familiar with bleeding air out?

The house was built in 1957 and there used to be a oil fired furnace in crawl. When the heating guys installed the gas boiler they used the existing lines. I have never bled the air our of the lines before but I believe there are some valves on the registers that I can open? Although I do not remember the installers using the valves on the registers to bleed air out. I'm glad you mentioned to use the oxygen barrier pex because I would have used the same pex that I used in the bathroom plumbing a few years ago. How do I check to see if the system is glycol?

 

[cbohaker]

Good evening, everyone. I have attached a photo of what the bleed valve looks like on the zone that I will be mostly be removing. The issue I have is that this valve seems to be the only one in the zone and is on one of the registers that I will be removing. How do I bleed the air out if I am going to remove this part? Any help would be appreciated! Also Mr. Reynolds mentioned glycol, how do I know if the system is using this?

 

[Twowaxhack]

That’s a great picture

Would you happen to be a photographer?

 

[cbohaker]

That’s a great picture

Would you happen to be a photographer?

Far from a photographer ha. Sorry about the dust and dirt.

 

[cbohaker]

I forgot to note each zone does have spigots near the furnace. Can I use the spigot to purge the air from the system after removing part of the zone?

 

[Twowaxhack]

I forgot to note each zone does have spigots near the furnace. Can I use the spigot to purge the air from the system after removing part of the zone?

Hopefully someone with hydronic experience can help you. I’m a southern plumber

 

[Geofd]

There should be ball valves with draw offs before the lines return to the boiler above the circulator pumps at the boiler

 

[cbohaker]

Good morning Geofd! I do see valves after taco circulators but not sure if they have draw offs.

 

[Geofd]

The pics are a bit dark, on the body of the circulator there is an arrow is it pointing up or down?????

 

[cbohaker]

Yes sir there is, its on the back side and pointing down towards the floor. I will be happy to take more pictures with better lighting just let me know what I can do and I'll get it done.

 

[Geofd]

Normally if you want to bleed a piece of baseboard there would be a coin vent it's just a little vent with a place for a flat head screw driver or a small square key to open the vent, the other way is shut the boiler power off let it cool down and hook up a hose to the draw offs above your circulator let the water run until there are no bubbles
1zone at a time then fill your boiler VERY slowly, if you add cold water to a hot boiler
You could crack it, post#4 IS a bleeder valve that's the least evasive way to bleed
Why don't you just put a canister vent on your new line with a ball valve tilo isolate it

 

[cbohaker]

Okay, so that register with the bleeder valve on photo #4 will be one of the registers I am removing, so that unfortunately won't be an option for me. Where are the draw offs above the circulators (I think they are just ball valves on my setup)? The only place I see near boilers to possibly drain water is the spigots installed under the red valves to the right in post #10.

 

[Geofd]

That's what I saw, I have also seen canister vents on the return lines going back to the boiler , I would not worry about air until you are done, Is your boiler a wall hung just above the pic?????

 

[cbohaker]

That's what I saw, I have also seen canister vents on the return lines going back to the boiler , I would not worry about air until you are done, Is your boiler a wall hung just above the pic?????

Yes, it's right above the regulators.

Note: Edit was because I wanted to post a clearer picture.


View attachment 48275

 

[cbohaker]

 

[GReynolds929]

Expansion tank needs supported, especially with the CPVC right there. With all the iron pipe you have there should be a magnetic filter on the return before the input to the boiler to keep any rust and particles out of the boiler. The zone returns are on the right side. The bibs under the red ball valve can be used to flush air out of the system, there should be an air eliminator/scrubber near the boiler as well to remove the oxygen since you have iron pipe in the system.

 

[cbohaker]

Expansion tank needs supported, especially with the CPVC right there. With all the iron pipe you have there should be a magnetic filter on the return before the input to the boiler to keep any rust and particles out of the boiler. The zone returns are on the right side. The bibs under the red ball valve can be used to flush air out of the system, there should be an air eliminator/scrubber near the boiler as well to remove the oxygen since you have iron pipe in the systemH

Ahhh okay, great info. Just to fill you all in on the back story this heating upgrade was completed by Habitat for humanity under a grant that they were offering (Probably not necessary information but I like to know the whole story). We don't have a lot of money thus is why I try to do everything myself if possible (Along with learning and being able to pass my knowledge down to my children). What would be the best way for me to support the expansion tank in your opinion? Also, what magnetic filter and air eliminator would you recommend? (I should probably put these in at the same time as removing the registers).

Edit: There is not much room between the expansion tank and the wall. There is a stud very close to the tank.

Another thing I failed to mention is there a big blue 2 stage water filtration system in the main water feed coming into the house (Not sure if this makes a difference). Maybe I should open the boiler and check the built in filter for sediment when I remove the registers.

About a year and a half ago I had a pin hole leak in the CPVC right behind the returns that I had to repair (Not sure they used brand new CPVC) thats why that small piece of pipe and two couplings are there (Photo post #17). This system has been in place for about 7 years.

 

[GReynolds929]

Here is a common expansion tank strap.

https://www.holdrite.com/us/en/water-heater/restraints/quick-strap-expansion-tank-mounting-bracket

There are many different ways and options for air/dirt elimination. There's not a lot of room in your setup for one without some reworking of the pipes, but here are a couple of combination eliminator.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Caleffi...es-DISCAL-DIRTMAG-Air-Dirt-Separator-w-Magnet

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Flamco-FSADS-100-Flamcovent-Clean-Smart-Air-Dirt-Separator-1