Not sure if I'll be able to explain this clearly, but here goes. I have a 10GPM centrifugal well pump on my 800' deep, 10 GPM flow rate well. There is a hydrant on a tee on the top of my well -seal. From that tee, the water line continues underground and under a lot of concrete, into the house where my pressure tank is located. I have a Cycle Stop Valve immediately before the pressure tank (see attached photo). The only way I can currently irrigate in my yard is by using hose bibs around the house. My house is on a slab. Bottom line is I have no way to add an irrigation circuit to my plumbing system without lots of concrete cutting and that's out of the question. OK, please hold those thoughts.
So, as I mentioned, I have a hydrant on a tee on my well-seal between the pump and pressure tank. When I open the hydrant and the pump is not running, water comes out of the hydrant slowly (see attached video). I'm guessing that the pressure tank is pushing water back out of the pressure tank.....through the Cycle Stop Valve....down the supply pipe..... until it comes out of the open hydrant. Once the level in the pressure tank drops to the point that the pressure switch is tripped on, the pump then begins pumping and the first exit available to the water coming from the pump is the open hydrant, and the water gushes from the hydrant (see the second video) without ever reaching the pressure tank in the house. In effect, the water flow direction reverses from the pressure-tank-to-tee/hydrant-to-pump direction to pump-to-tee/hydrant direction. So, if the hydrant is open and the pump is running, no water reaches the house.
Is there any way I can adapt this configuration that I have so that I can both use the hydrant for irrigation and ensure that while irrigating, I am also able to supply the house with the water needed for daily activities and be able to do this without burning up the pump? One thought I had is maybe I could add another Cycle Stop Valve between the tee on top of the well-seal and the hydrant, with the thought that the Cycle Stop Valve would restrict the flow to the hydrant to only what is being demanded by the hydrant, and the balance of the 10 GPM being pushed by the well pump would bypass the hydrant and flow to the house......but I don't know if that's realistic or not. Any advice would be appreciated.
So, as I mentioned, I have a hydrant on a tee on my well-seal between the pump and pressure tank. When I open the hydrant and the pump is not running, water comes out of the hydrant slowly (see attached video). I'm guessing that the pressure tank is pushing water back out of the pressure tank.....through the Cycle Stop Valve....down the supply pipe..... until it comes out of the open hydrant. Once the level in the pressure tank drops to the point that the pressure switch is tripped on, the pump then begins pumping and the first exit available to the water coming from the pump is the open hydrant, and the water gushes from the hydrant (see the second video) without ever reaching the pressure tank in the house. In effect, the water flow direction reverses from the pressure-tank-to-tee/hydrant-to-pump direction to pump-to-tee/hydrant direction. So, if the hydrant is open and the pump is running, no water reaches the house.
Is there any way I can adapt this configuration that I have so that I can both use the hydrant for irrigation and ensure that while irrigating, I am also able to supply the house with the water needed for daily activities and be able to do this without burning up the pump? One thought I had is maybe I could add another Cycle Stop Valve between the tee on top of the well-seal and the hydrant, with the thought that the Cycle Stop Valve would restrict the flow to the hydrant to only what is being demanded by the hydrant, and the balance of the 10 GPM being pushed by the well pump would bypass the hydrant and flow to the house......but I don't know if that's realistic or not. Any advice would be appreciated.
