Pump setup recommendations

[Levi]

Hello All,
Looking for some opinions on the best pump/pressure tank set up for my folks new house.

Specs: House 350' from well, 80' deep rock well with 2" casing. Static water level 5' below top of well. Haven't pulled the drop pipe yet, but generally they are 20-30' with a foot valve around here.

I tested with a 1 horse utility pump and got a consistent 12 gpm. (Pump is rated for up to 24 gpm but it is old and wore out.)

Want to have good flow and pressure at house. Option A Pressure tank $ switch beside pump. Option B Pressure tank & switch close to house, Option C Small pressure tank attached to pump, main pressure tank close to house.

Any input will be appreciated

 

[Valveman]

If you want good flow and pressure at the house, I recommend a Cycle Stop Valve or CSV set up. With a CSV you only need a 4.5 gallon size tank. You can install the kit at the well or at the house. It just needs to be before any water lines tee off.

 

[speedbump]

It doesn't really matter where the tank is as long as the pressure switch is with it. Set the pressure switch up to keep the pump running while 2 to 3 gallons per minute are being used to keep the motor from cycling. This will also allow the pump to obtain it's highest possible pressure without shutting off. An extra large tank with a jet pump isn't terribly important. I would go with a 42 gallon equivalent or larger if you like.

There are not too many quality tanks on the market. Stay away from big box stores.

 

[Levi]

Thank you for the suggestions. My concern was the distance between the well and house. Is there any advantage to placing switch and pump at the house (in garage) rather than at the pump (350 ft from house)?

No matter HOW I regulate pressure (CSV setup or tank) does WHERE matter?

Seems like if it is regulated at the house, and I set it for 70, I've got 7-0 in the house
Seems like if it is regulated at the pump, and I set it for 70, it will drop a bunch before it gets to the house.

I know my logic is probably faulty, and would like to understand this better

 

[speedbump]

The big thing is to run large enough pipe from well to house to prevent friction loss. For a run that far, 1" would be the bare minimum and 1-1/4" would be better. Using SCH 40 PVC at 10 gpm with 3/4" you lose 30 psi, 1" 9 psi and 1-1/4" only 2.5 psi.

It doesn't matter where you put the tank. When it empties, it's up to the pump to keep up with demand and it has to push it through that 350' of pipe.

 

[Valveman]

If you place the tank and switch at the house, you will lose friction loss before it gets there, and you will have 70 at the house. If you place the tank and switch at the well and you have 1 1/4" pipe, you would need it to be set at 73, so you still have 70 at the house after the friction loss.

I assumed you were using a submersible? If so you will need a CSV to keep it from cycling when using small amounts of water.

 

[speedbump]

I know you said you have a 2" well. So I assume you have a jet pump. That's why I didn't mention a constant pressure valve.

 

[Valveman]

Sorry! Missed the part about 2" casing.

 

[Levi]

Thank you very much. Yes, it will be a jet pump. Probably a Myers HJ100S, but I am open to other recommendations. They are used to very high pressure city water, so I just want to make sure they aren't disappointed. My own well is similar, only 75 feet away with 50/70 switch a 20 gal tank and a CSV set for 65. I ended up taking out the CSV to keep the extra 5 psi. I've got 70 at the tank, but by the time it gets to the house, through the softener and upstairs to the shower I only have 20 psi on one fixture at a time. Don't want that to happen to them.

 

[speedbump]

What size pipe are you running the distance from the well to the house? This is important!

There are pumps available that have more than one impeller that you can bolt an ejector on. These pumps can produce plenty of water but at greater pressures. Like over 100 psi.

 

[Valveman]

Thank you very much. Yes, it will be a jet pump. Probably a Myers HJ100S, but I am open to other recommendations. They are used to very high pressure city water, so I just want to make sure they aren't disappointed. My own well is similar, only 75 feet away with 50/70 switch a 20 gal tank and a CSV set for 65. I ended up taking out the CSV to keep the extra 5 psi. I've got 70 at the tank, but by the time it gets to the house, through the softener and upstairs to the shower I only have 20 psi on one fixture at a time. Don't want that to happen to them.

Well that shouldn't be happening to you either. You should have had better pressure with the CSV than without. The CSV should have kept the pressure at a steady 65 at the pump, instead of cycling between 50 and 70 as it is now. Without the CSV you only have 70 when the pump is off. Anytime you use water the pressure will be lower. It could be only 50 much of the time. The CSV would have held it steady at 65 as long as you are using water. And if that is not enough pressure, you just need to turn up the pressure switch and CSV. So is the 20 PSI at the tap when the pump pressure is at 50 or at 70?

If you are losing 40 PSI before the water gets to the faucet, then you need to start with 40 PSI more. You may need to run the pressure switch at 80/100 and the CSV at 95 to get 55 PSI at the faucet. Of course you also have to have a large enough pump to build this pressure. But if you need more pressure, all you have to do is have a large enough pump and turn the pressure up as needed.

 

[Levi]

My computer went down so I didn't have a chance to thank all of you for your repliies. They will be using 1 1/4" supply from the well to the house, unless a bigger pipe is recommended. Plumber want to do 1"

Back to the other house. Valveman, when I get a chance I will do some testing with the CSV, and check back in. I can't get the pressure up to 80/100, its a shallow well jet pump, so I don't think I've ever broken 70.