Pump Pressure and Plumbing Schematic Issues

[dsthomas23]

We live a in small town and have a 6500 square foot home. We have been told we needed a new pressure tank, a new pump, different routing of plumbing, etc. by a number of local plumbers...but it never seems to be correct. We have a new pump that was installed and I just do not think it was installed correctly. It is not bolted to the ground for one, it shutters if it starts, and also is throwing an error code after a short time. It is a new Scala2 pump and error code #3 is showing which appears to have the non return valve blocked or defective. It just started showing this code after a valve was closed (as seen in picture at top near ceiling where old yellow pipe meets new white pipe) that was done to prevent water pressure from dropping after 15 seconds on our sprinkler system. It basically has not been working properly all summer, but did not know that since it goes off at 4am. We have a sprinkler system, inline water heater, pressure tank, water softener and plumbing pipes that have been changed around by every plumber that touches them. Any help with a layout or different idea of a schematic would be greatly appreciated. Going to call plumbers again to check on error code in the interim. FYI....City pressure comes in at about 60. WE also get pipe shutter when the sprinklers come on. Thank you for any thoughts.

 

[Valveman]

Well you shouldn't even need a pressure tank with that pump. The Scala has a tank built inside of it. However, some people add a pressure tank trying to solve some of the many problems with that type pump. Which, BTW is working perfectly. Perfectly for all the contractors and suppliers who have sold you equipment over and over. You also have a pressure reducing valve on the inset side of the pump, so you are not able to take advantage of the 60 PSI that is already coming into the house. Pex lines with the insert fittings are also another source of flow and pressure loss, as they make the pipe work like one size smaller than it is.

You need a "disruptive" product. One that is so disruptive to the pump industry they have blacklisted and tried to make it sound detrimental when it actually makes pumps last much longer than normal.

Get a regular jet pump, like a Goulds J10S or J15S and use a PK1A kit to control it. It is simple, long lasting, and delivers strong constant pressure to the house. All the contractors will try to talk you out of it, for obvious reasons, as it stops the cash flow for decades. Here is a picture from the reviews and a link to the reviews. Reviews – Cycle Stop Valves, Inc

 

[wpns]

I’m confused, if your town water pressure is 60PSI why do you have a pump?