Plumber left silicone residue on counter top. Professional? How to remove?

[BigC]

About 2 weeks ago, I had a single basin sink installed by a local plumber. When done, he went out to his truck to tally the charges. While he was gone I looked over the work and noticed that there was silicone adhesive on 3 sides of the formica counter and even up onto the rim of the stanless steel sink. (See photos at https://picasaweb.google.com/100058604112183557712/February182015?authkey=Gv1sRgCJLNjpzV0MSeWQ)

It looked quite messy, so I took a paper towel and was attempting to clean it up when he came back. He let me know that he wasn't pleased at my attempt at a clean-up and that he meant it to be the way I found it - that I should leave it alone and let it dry. I asked how I might clean it up after drying and he made it sound near impossible, reluctantly suggesting that I might try using a razor blade, but saying I would be risking damage to the formica.

Never having had a sink installed before, I was thrown by his response, but didn't know what else to say. All I could think was that if he was called in for a sink install on This Old House, I was pretty sure his approach wouldn't cut it.

Two questions:
Is leaving noticeable silicone residue around on the counter top, a professional pluming approach?
Is there a way I can get remove this unsightly excess without damaging the counter top or sink?

 

[havasu]

Yeah, that looks like crap. I would remove it all by using Goof-Off or Gu-Be-Gone (only as a lubricant) and an extremely sharp razor blade. You might finish cleaning with a fine steel wool. Once it's off, get blue painter's tape and stick it 1/8" away from sink on the formica, and another line of painter's tape 1/8" up on the sink. This will leave a 1/4" silicone line at the sink. Apply silicone, smooth with your finger, then remove both lines of painter's tape. Then DO NOT TOUCH it until it dries.

 

[Matt30]

When I was starting out, a guy I worked under stressed and stressed how important it is to practice a tidy silicone job, and I usually always use clear, only white if something needs dressed up, not sealed.

i have missed some silicone and had to go back and clean it up. I find it its easier to remove once cured.

 

[jj33]

when and if you re silicon it put a nice bead around the sink, spray it with soapy water or some sort of spray in a bottle so when you drag your finger across it is doesn't stick to every dry bit of surface it touches like what your plumber did. as long as you spray the silicon and surfaces you want clear of silicon you won't have a drama and looks grouse

 

[BigC]

Yeah, that looks like crap. I would remove it all by using Goof-Off or Gu-Be-Gone (only as a lubricant) and an extremely sharp razor blade. You might finish cleaning with a fine steel wool. Once it's off, get blue painter's tape and stick it 1/8" away from sink on the formica, and another line of painter's tape 1/8" up on the sink. This will leave a 1/4" silicone line at the sink. Apply silicone, smooth with your finger, then remove both lines of painter's tape. Then DO NOT TOUCH it until it dries.

Thank for the reply. I am unclear as to the exact procedure you suggest and what you mean when you say these chemicals are being used "as a lubricant." What am I lubricating? Also, what am I doing with the razor? Do I attempt to cut down to the formica surface (but not into it) and then use the blade to "shave" under the silicone up to the initial cut to then lift it off? I'd appreciate more details, but I must say I am no surgeon and am concerned about screwing up the formica, thus making a bad situation worse.

Also, I read some reviews on Goof Off and Goo Gone and it sounds like they are for stuff much less formidable than silicone. Also a number of reviewers mentioned the need for good ventilation when using Goof Off. Even in mild weather, the ventilation (open window availability) in this sink area would be problematic.

Another question: If this is a botched job (Is it?), shouldn't I call the plumber up and demand he make this right?

Thanks to all.

 

[havasu]

Your first job is to call the plumber back and let him know this is a shabby job and ask how he is going to fix it for you. I would also not hesitate to show him our replies here.

 

[Caduceus]

I would be more concerned if it was 100% silicone or siliconized latex. 100% silicone should not be used where it contacts metals as it is corrosive. The siliconized latex caulking (like DAP Kitchen and Bath, for example) is safe and can be removed more easily after drying.

 

[BigC]

100% silicone should not be used where it contacts metals as it is corrosive. The siliconized latex caulking (like DAP Kitchen and Bath, for example) is safe and can be removed more easily after drying.

I have uploaded photos of the empty tube left by the plumber. See them at -
https://picasaweb.google.com/100058604112183557712/February182015?authkey=Gv1sRgCJLNjpzV0MSeWQ

The tube says "100% RTV Silicone Rubber / Adhesive Sealant." I can't tell if that is the brand or just a description. There is no mention of manufacturer or getting info at a website. The tube says "It will adhere to... clean metal... (etc.) and only warns "Not recommended for vinyl windows and siding." Thanks.

 

[KULTULZ]

I would be more concerned if it was 100% silicone or siliconized latex.

100% silicone should not be used where it contacts metals as it is corrosive.

The siliconized latex caulking (like DAP Kitchen and Bath, for example) is safe and can be removed more easily after drying.

Here's my factoid of the day.

THANX!...

 

[BigC]

Here's my factoid of the day.
THANX!...

I'm not sure what this comment means. Is it tongue-in-cheek? I searched online, but could find nothing supporting the claim that silicone corrodes metal. Can someone please clarify?

 

[Caduceus]

To clarify, unless specified by the manufacturer as safe on metals, most silicone adhesives are acid curing and will corrode metals. If specifically stated as safe or referred to as a "neutral curing" silicone, then it should be okay. Many contractors use the silicone that has a very strong vinegar smell which is acid curing. I also believe that RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) silicone adhesive is acid curing. When I first started plumbing, the company I worked for used 100% but shortly afterwards switched to safer latex based because metals were oxidizing and corroding especially more noble metals were turning very green shortly after application.

 

[BigC]

As one swabbie (1957-1961 PH3) to another: Thanks again. If you could point me to something online that verifies the corrosion/metal aspect, it would be a great help. I will continue searching on my own, but so far have not found verification. Is this a big secret in the plumbing world? I would like to contact the plumbing company with hard facts, not theory.

Also, since the sink is stainless steel, what is the prognosis? What corrosion are we likely to see and how soon? Is there anything that can be done to correct this install?

 

[havasu]

I'm also confused and have never heard of silicone causing corrosion. I thought that in order to have corrosion, you needed oxygen, and the silicone itself snuffs any oxygen, so how does this occur?

 

[BigC]

Additionally, the Owner's Manual for this American Standard sink (SKU 463780/QK019) simply says in the install steps:
"6. Apply silicone sealant around the underside rim of the sink on all four sides."

 

[Caduceus]

I'm not going to guarantee either way that there is a 100% chance that your sink will corrode. The manufacturer said that it is safe for metals. I am relaying my experiences and practices so that you are better informed. The silicone job was bad anyways and by most plumbers standards would warrant a call back. It's just going to look crappier as time passes and annoy you because you know it's there and will always see it. Plumbers putties, unless they are neutral as well, will do the same to granite and most metals over time for the same reason. Most plumbers know this, too. A quick search of the internet showed this information and the link for source verification. A deeper search using better Google-Fu could probably produce a mountain of info, but Im only on break right now, maybe I'll visit it again later.

"MUST HAVE Neutral Cure Silicone, 100% Pure. 2.8oz. Tube. Custom Color Dark. Perfect match to our Patinas. Use for sealing edges as well as sealing around drain. This is a must have item for the installation of our copper sinks. This silicone provides a great seal for the dark drains and the dark or medium patinas. Do NOT use PLUMBERS PUTTY! (Plumbers putty can cause a greening around the drain and is too light a color for the dark copper coloring. Use of Plumbers Putty will void the warranty of both the sink and the drain if used.) Neutral Cure Silicone will not cause the "Green" reaction to the copper the way other silicone sealers can. Regular silicone contains chemicals that can cause a reaction when applied to the copper, the neutral cure will not cause a reaction. This neutral cure silicone is ready to use and is applied the same way you would apply regular silicone sealants. Dries quickly and the color blends so well it looks like it's part of the sink. A single tube can be used to install several bath or bar sinks and is enough for a kitchen sink application"
http://www.coppersinksdirect.com/ccp0-prodshow/neutral-cure-silicone-SLC28.html