Pilot Light Often Going Out

[aceuvspades]

I have had a Bradford White gas water heater for probably about 5 years. For a few years I've had a problem where the pilot light would go out occasionally. It usually happened during the colder months and more often when the weather was bad. The problem would go away during the hotter summer months. I did some investigation, and while I never actually saw the pilot light go out, I did see that when the burner lit up that there would be dripping of water that would sizzle when hitting the flame. There was no dripping until the flame started. My assumption is that at some point after the burner turns off the water continues to drip for a bit and eventually a splash hits the pilot light enough to put it out. Just a guess.

About a year or so ago the problem went away. I was elated that my water heater apparently self healed. But a couple weeks ago the problem returned, oddly when the weather has started warming up in the spring. And now it's gotten to the point that it is going out every night, usually after a lot of evening showers have been taken. I was ok going up to the attic when it happened every few days at most to re-light the pilot, but it's becoming a burden now that it's pretty much every day.

My first question is does this sound like something that could be fixed reasonably if I call a plumber? I don't want to spend so much that I might as well get a new water heater.
My second question is, if I do end up getting a new gas water heater, are there any recommendations for brands/models that would be less likely to suffer from a problem like this?

Thank you in advance.

 

[skeezix]

Sounds like too much pressure in the heater and when the burner turns on, the additional heat could increase the pressure just enough to cause the drip.
Could also be an expansion tank that has bitten the dust.

 

[TomFOhio]

I would call Bradford White customer service and tell what's going on. If it 5 years old then you 1 more year on your warranty. Might
as well have them send you the parts you need for free. Sounds like a thermocouple. They send the whole unit which is the ignitor and
thermocouple as one. They will help you.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

I had a similar problem. Never figured out what it was, only that the water heater was way past its warranty and that changing any major parts or spending any major amount of time on an older water heater was just a waste.

I ensured that my replacement didn't have a standing pilot; nothing to go out. Spark ignition.

 

[BlueSkyHigh]

I had similar problems on a unit that I once had. I had two issues: The air filtration screens at the bottom of the unit were blocked by lint and dust after years of inattention and the thermocouple powering the gas flow valve feeding the pilot had actually moved out of the pilot flame itself and needed to be adjusted. When adjusting the position of the thermocouple I also cleaned it off with fine grit sandpaper.

 

[BlueSkyHigh]

I ensured that my replacement didn't have a standing pilot; nothing to go out. Spark ignition.

That idea, no standing pilot, I like. I asked the plumbing contractor I used about just such a unit and he said they didn't have any. If I may, what brand did you purchase?

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

I believe mine was a Rheem. It was a power vent model as well. However it was a few years ago when I bought it and I’ve looked at the current models and most gas water heaters all seem to have the same kind of gas control now. I believe this is different than the gas control that I had on mine from a few years ago.

 

[TomFOhio]

As far as I know all water heater brands make a power vent. All you need is gas, electric, water and it has to be vented out the side
of your house. They're a lot more expensive to buy and install, than a regular gas water heater but like you said no standing pilot.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

Many homes from a few builders in my subdivision in Michigan built in the mid 1990s, started out with a power vent water heater. Direct vent was rare if it existed (never saw it) and many water heaters located in the basement vented through the 2nd story roof. At the time, the power vents were definitely more costly, like a jump to $900 from $700. When I replaced mine the first time (I had three water heaters in 27 years) there was only ONE 50 gallon model in stock at either Lowes or Home Depot, around the year 2000 or so. Thus I didn't have much choice. The second replacement wasn't such an emergency and I was able to replace it at a local plumbing supply store. I didn't have much of a choice there either. I was able to sell the old power vent assembly for $40 to a local repair shop, and got a few bucks in scrap metal for the old tank at a metals depot.

Around here in NC, of those few builders who install gas (they love electric here even when gas is available) they are able to put them in an attic (really dumb idea) or manage to put them in a garage or other one-story place where the venting is pretty straightforward. Mine now is in the garage, and the venting goes through the garage attic and roof. Simple install. In northern climates they'd never put a water heater in an attic; it goes in the basement or some other utility room if the home doesn't have a basement. In that case they've done some incredibly complex venting, though today you can use a direct vent water heater.

I'm actually a little surprised my builder here didn't use a direct vent model; the venting is simpler based on the location in the garage and one less roof penetration. Looks to be about $100 more than a conventional vent but the savings in venting parts and labor should cover that. Who knows what goes on in their minds...

 

[Twowaxhack]

I’d go tankless with if I had a gas water heater.

Tanks are getting expensive.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

I’d go tankless with if I had a gas water heater.

Tanks are getting expensive.

Yes they are, and have. More so than inflation. For many who have a tank, retrofitting a tankless can be a very costly installation which can be frightening since so many people look to do things on the cheap. From new, it generally makes some good sense when the gas requirements, venting, and location can be designed properly from the start.

 

[Twowaxhack]

50 gal gas at Home Depot costs $678 plus tax !

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

50 gal gas at Home Depot costs $678 plus tax !

Right, for a straight conventional vent gas water heater, 6 year warranty. Actually a tiny bit higher here.

For the 12 year warranty, the price goes to ~$879.00, about +$200 for an additional 6 years on the warranty.
For a direct vent model, the price is ~$1,200.00, 6 year warranty.
For a power vent model, the price is ~$944.00
For "Low NOx" power vent models, the price kind of skyrockets to ~$1,300.00 (must be some special places this is needed?)
A tankless Rinnai super high efficiency, 199K BTU, "11 GPM" whole house is between ~$1,800.00 and ~$2,300.00. The more costly has an internal recirculation pump, the less costly needs an external pump if you want to do recirculation.

Price gap is narrowing, but tankless still about 2x the cost just for the heater. Installation requirements additional of course.

 

[arctic bill]

You need to change your thermocouple . with age they stop producing enough
millivolts to hold the pilot valve open . they only last about 5 years
This Honeywell 24 Inch Replacement Thermocouple is an ideal fit for gas furnaces, boilers and water heaters that operate on 30 millivolt systems. This product includes an adapter that allows for easy mounting on most pilot burners. This would include push-in, clamp-in and screw-in burners.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I buy Rinnai exterior natural gas 9.6 gpm for $1200. 5 year parts and labor warranty. 12 yr heat exchanger warranty.

We have great water, so they last 20 yrs.....Steel tanks can’t do that here without expensive anode services.

They say tankless should be cleaned regularly but I haven’t found that to be necessary with our water. I’ve cleaned them after 5-10 yrs and the vinegar is as clean as when I started.

 

[aceuvspades]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I need to think about this some to determine the best course. My pilot light has decided to stay on for about a week straight now. It drives me crazy that the problem is not consistent.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Excess condensation can cause pilot outage. So that may be your issue.

To minimize condensation try to spread your hot water use out over time.

Make sure the vent is proper. This is a big deal.

Size the water heater properly when you replace it.

 

[pbench]

With the price of hot water tanks, these days change your anode rod every three years. That will save the tank from corrosion & a possible leak.