P-trap slip nut slightly damp after disassembly/cleaning

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Channor

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bathroom sink was severely clogged. No problem, took apart the pipes/p-trap under the sink and cleaned everything thoroughly (major yuck btw - clog was serious; i only have myself to blame for procrastinating and not nipping this in the bud earlier)

put everything back together and there’s no leak per se, but one of the p-trap’s slip nuts does feel very slightly damp if i press a piece of tissue paper against the threads. It’s super minor; i don’t even feel the moisture if i just run a finger around the nut, and it doesn’t result in any water droplet whatsoever, no matter how long i let the water flow.

p-trap/slip nut are stainless steel and tightened by hand.

is the minor dampness considered normal/acceptable, or should it be fixed anyway? (perhaps with plumber’s tape?) I tightened it real good despite doing so by hand; should i give it another quarter turn with a wrench? Was afraid of over tightening and damaging the threads.

thanks in advance
 
You can overtighten them and cause more of an issue. As the nut is metal, is the ferrule brass or plastic? When you reassembled it, did you make sure the ferrule and mating surface was clean?

Teflon tape will not fix the issue if there is one. The sealing surfaces for thus type joint is the tapered ferrule and the tapered surface on the fitting. Those tapered surfaces also cause the ferrule to squeeze down around the trap arm.

If anything, I would disassemble the P-trap again, make sure everything is nice and clean and reassemble everything using a little lubricant on the threads. I've never had any problems using petroleum jelly, but it is a petroleum product and can affect some plastics. So, I've started using Pam spray or just a little vegetable oil.

If you do use a wrench after hand tightening it, don't go more than about an 1/8 of a turn.
 
You can overtighten them and cause more of an issue. As the nut is metal, is the ferrule brass or plastic? When you reassembled it, did you make sure the ferrule and mating surface was clean?

Teflon tape will not fix the issue if there is one. The sealing surfaces for thus type joint is the tapered ferrule and the tapered surface on the fitting. Those tapered surfaces also cause the ferrule to squeeze down around the trap arm.

If anything, I would disassemble the P-trap again, make sure everything is nice and clean and reassemble everything using a little lubricant on the threads. I've never had any problems using petroleum jelly, but it is a petroleum product and can affect some plastics. So, I've started using Pam spray or just a little vegetable oil.

If you do use a wrench after hand tightening it, don't go more than about an 1/8 of a turn.

thanks for the response.

the ferrule is metal for sure, but I can't remember if it's brass or stainless steel like the rest of the pipe. I did clean everything extremely thoroughly.

When i get home I'll try to re-assemble it as you suggested.
 
thanks for the response.

the ferrule is metal for sure, but I can't remember if it's brass or stainless steel like the rest of the pipe. I did clean everything extremely thoroughly.

When i get home I'll try to re-assemble it as you suggested.
If you think everything is pretty clean and it is all metal, then just loosen the nut and spray the threads with any spray lubricant like WD40. That should allow you to tighten the nut more with just your hands. Wrap a towel around the nut so you get a good grip.
 
I do at times. Just when there is a slight leak due to a slight defect to the trap. The liquid Teflon helps seal it.
Um., I've added food grade anti seize for ease of removal of the slip joint..
But if a gasket is not sealing, thats should be addressed. The pipe dope doesn't help seal the joint....

Anyone else?
 
Um., I've added food grade anti seize for ease of removal of the slip joint..
But if a gasket is not sealing, thats should be addressed. The pipe dope doesn't help seal the joint....

Anyone else?
Um, yes it does. That is the purpose of pipe dope tp lubricate and seal imperfect threads. It also works on other joints in plumbing as well. I've been trained by others to do this and seen other colleagues do it as well. I also know other guys who disagree just as you do. This is one of those items that plumbers will not agree on the same. Just as using both Teflon and sealant on pipe thread together. Some say one or the other and some say both together.

For me I've used dope on traps and will continue when necessary.
 
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Um, yes it does. That is the purpose of pipe dope tp lubricate and seal imperfect threads. It also works on other joints in plumbing as well. I've been trained by others to do this and seen other colleagues do it as well. I also know other guys who disagree just as you do. This is one of those items that plumbers will not agree on the same. Just as using both Teflon and sealant on pipe thread together. Some say one or the other and some say both together.

For me I've used dope on traps and will continue when necessary.
Just curious, do you use pipe dope on compression fittings, tank fill valve gaskets, and faucet supply Hoses?
 
There’s a lot of literature on the subject of pipe thread sealants and lubricants.

I’ve read a lot of manufacturers opinions and combined that with my field experience to become Super Plumber 😐😬😜

My grandfather use to use old lead paint that had thickened as pipe dope. Putty mixed with oil based paint.
 
Just curious, do you use pipe dope on compression fittings, tank fill valve gaskets, and faucet supply Hoses?
Years ago when we would use the chrome or brass supply lines that did not have gaskets. We would put it on the tapered ends. The only gasket I would put pipe dope on is the gasket on a pop up assembly. But as far as traps. If it did leak slightly I would add it.
 
I would like to add that in the world of pipe and fittings that fittings we use in plumbing are crap fittings.

It’s all about being the cheapest, that what sells
 
Um, yes it does. That is the purpose of pipe dope tp lubricate and seal imperfect threads. It also works on other joints in plumbing as well. I've been trained by others to do this and sernbother colleagues do it as well. I also know other guys who disagree just as you do. This is one of those items that plumbers will not agree on the same. Just as using both Teflon and sealant on pipe thread together. Some say one or the other and some say both together.

For me I've used dope on traps and will continue when necessa
Years ago when we would use the chrome or brass supply lines that did not have gaskets. We would put it on the tapered ends. The only gasket I would put pipe dope on is the gasket on a pop up assembly. But as far as traps. If it did leak slightly I would add it.
To be clear., i keep on hand a variety of different lubrication, mabe I'll take a picture.

But i have
victaulic lube
Plumbers grease for o rings
Food grade anti seize
And t plus 2 rectorseal pipe dope

So i always lubricate gaskets., just not with pipe dope., because they dry out over time and seizes. Pickup some food grade anti seize and give it a try. Great for unions and gasket threads., and safe if its food grade.
Grainger stocks it
 
I always use pipe dope on the chrome fittings. Put it on before the gasket. It slides on better and seals better.
When I was an apprentice the master plumber would raise hell with us if we didn't. Don't use on the plastic
unless I have a problem. Wipe it off with a rag and you never know its there.
 
I always use pipe dope on the chrome fittings. Put it on before the gasket. It slides on better and seals better.
When I was an apprentice the master plumber would raise hell with us if we didn't. Don't use on the plastic
unless I have a problem. Wipe it off with a rag and you never know its there.
Yeah, take them apart 5 years later when the pipe dope dried out lol...

But yeah i food grade anti seize the threads for sure
 
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