Not familiar with this system

Plumbing Forums

Help Support Plumbing Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

cvap

Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2019
Messages
6
Reaction score
1
Location
Naples Fl.
Hi everyone. Recently moved to a new home away from the coast in South Florida with well and septic, and the well has a RO system on it.
Is anyone familiar with these set ups? It has no pressure tank so the pump in the holding tank feeds the home and goes on, along with a booster pump every time you open a faucet.
Is this normal? On a normal day it must start at least 50 times with just two of us in the home. It's also a new home so must have just passed a plumbing inspection.
The well itself has the same pump and booster which only runs to fill the holding tank with RO filtered water, or to run the irrigation system with raw water.
Is there a way to put a pressure tank on the part of the system that feeds the house and possibly not need the second booster pump that is on top of the mineral tank?
IMG_0425.jpegIMG_0424.jpeg
 
Both your well pump and the booster pump have one of those flow switch, all in one, controllers. Yes, the pumps will come on for every spoonful of water used. But no, they will not work with a pressure tank. Every pump manufacturer has a version of those because they are so good for the replacement pump business. Neither one of your pumps will last very long with that type control. The same submersible pumps will probably last 30 years if they are not allowed to cycle themselves to death. That is why pump manufacturers sell those flow switch controllers and would never sell a Cycle Stop Valve. Replace those controllers with a PK1A kit. Even though it only uses a 4.5 gallon size pressure tank, the Cycle Stop Valve will eliminate the cycling and make the pumps last much longer than the manufacturers like.

presscontrol.jpgCistern Storage Tank with Submersible Booster Pump 2 Homes.png
 
Awesome thank you for the explanation. Though I don't really understand why you would need anything but a tank and mechanical pressure switch from the cistern's pump to the house set 40-60 or whatever the switches come set to. A union tank tee package with a 26 gal tank is under 400$
Then leave the well side set up as is with the float switch in the cistern to keep enough pressure to use the RO filter and irrigation. It doesn't cycle.
 
Last edited:
Awesome thank you for the explanation. Though I don't really understand why you would need anything but a tank and mechanical pressure switch from the cistern's pump to the house set 40-60 or whatever the switches come set to. A union tank tee package with a 26 gal tank is under 400$
Then leave the well side set up as is with the float switch in the cistern to keep enough pressure to use the RO filter and irrigation. It doesn't cycle.
You are exactly right. There is very little wrong with the tried and true pressure tank/pressure switch system. And yes, a simple float switch to turn the well pump on and off is all you need. But I suspect there are no wires run from the cistern to the well to make that happen? That is why they used one of those "on demand type float switch things" to start the pump. You could still replace that controller with a pressure tank/pressure switch and not need the control wires from the cistern/storage tank. However, a 26 gallon size pressure tank only holds 6 gallons of water. This will not give your pump the needed one minute run time to fill the tank. You would probably need an 86 gallon size tank (much more expensive) that will hold 20 gallons of water to give the pump the required one minute at least and two minutes is better run time. Even then you would have to make sure the inlet, most likely aerator nozzles, will deliver as much flow as the pump will produce, and every irrigation zone is the correct size, to prevent cycling the well pump to death.

Adding a Cycle Stop Valve to the standard pressure tank/pressure switch system solves all the problems associated with that old dependable system. You could have a room full of 86 gallon size tanks and the pump would still cycle on/off if the flow rate being used isn't as much as the pump can produce. The CSV varies the flow rate of the pump to match the amount being used, and there is no cycling, regardless of the size of pressure tank. This allows the use of a much smaller 4.5 gallon size tank. You have a well and a storage tank full of water. Another 7 or 20 gallons in a pressure tank is not storage. Pressure tanks only purpose is to reduce the number of on/off cycles. When you have a Cycle Stop Valve to stop the cycling, not much of a pressure tank is needed.

The Cycle Stop Valve and a 4.5 gallon tank does a better job than the biggest pressure tank you can get. It just improves the old reliable pressure tank/pressure switch system. So much so that pump manufactures labeled it a "disruptive product", which is why they push those cheap controllers and VFD's and would never mention a Cycle Stop Valve.

A PK1A kit on both of those pumps, as in the drawing above, would extend the life of the pumps from 3-7 years to 20-30 years. If you figure how much that will cost in the long run you will understand why pump manufacturers do not like Cycle Stop Valves. Lol!

I wish there was a counter on these reviews as I am sure it is well over a thousand by now. And these are just recent ones. You will need to go to the old reviews on our web page to see we have been getting them since 1993, well before reviews were a thing. You can see I was answering the same questions all those years ago.
https://cyclestopvalves.com/pages/reviews
 
Back
Top