No water after moving water tank

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amal_auc

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Hello people,

Sunny greetings from Mauritius.

I am having some problems with my water tank and hope someone can shed some light. Unfortunately my plumber is a bit of an amateur and cannot help me any further.

So after the recent addition of a first floor to my house, i moved the water tank to the roof of the first storey. Now since i moved the tank I no longer get water from the tank(I checked the tank is full of water).

The pipes are clear of debris. The plumber checked it.

My plumber's solution is to install a pump. But normally a water tank at a higher level should have a decent water flow to a tap below (lower level) without a pump. But in my situation not a drop flows.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks.
 
Check the valve on the outlet side of the tank. If it's a gate valve and it was turned off during the relocation it may be broken in the closed position. This is a very common occurrence with this type valve.

John
 
Hey John,

Thanks for your reply.

The valve is working fine. Took the piping apart and the water is flowing just after the valve.

Today I took the piping apart and refitted everything myself. Water started flowing in the piping but with very low pressure but a few hours latter it stopped. If i leave the lower taps open for some time, the pipes make some gurgling noise and then water flows with a decent pressure but quickly starts reducing until it stops.
 
the vent piping is just after the valve that has been installed as with a T. If i remember correctly.
Will check in the morning.
 
are you on well or city water? if you are on city water then you have a blockage in the line or as said previously a valve issue.

Vent?? this is unfamilliar to me, why would one have a vent in a domestic water riser? unless the tank is an electric tank where it would have a atmospheric vaccume breaker to protect the heating elements.

possiblle problems. Kinked line, brocken valve, something left in the line ( you said they are amature plumber ) or insufficiant incoming pressure and too much flow restriction in the line..

is your heater gas or electric? are you on city or well ? was the tank moved or replaced (new tank or old ) ?


it could be as simple as ( if the tank was moved ) dislodgement of sediment buildup in the tank causing a line blockage.

finally, is the cold water also affected ??
 
I suppose it is also possiblle that your plumber traped an air pocket in the line, are there any fixtures on same floor as the tank ?
 
Good morning Liquid,

I am on city water. The tank actually acts as a reservoir as the city supplies water only twice daily. Morning and evening for a few hours.

The tank holds cold water. And tank is same old one.
I have a separate solar heater on the same roof and the pressure is good from the heater tank.

No other fixtures on same level as tank.

Will try to upload a few images of the installation. That might help. And yeah the piping is pretty much kinked.
 
kinked piping is the first thing to solve it could be the entire issue...

if the tank is a cistern then it could well be a venting issue upoaded pictures would surely help.

This is Liquid BTW, my forum password seems to be messed up and i have been unable to log in under my normal username.

does this resivoir tank use a pupm to supply or is it gravity fed... if gravity then a venting issue and kinked line will help each other out to not supply water. if its on a pump then you prolly have an air pocket, which could and should be solveablle by a coin vent installation. .

So I am understanding that you are ( though supplyed by city ) on a private water system ( not connected to a city main ) ??
 
Good morning Liquid,

As you will see from the images the piping are kinked like hell on both ground floor and first floor.
I will have to sort that out. Since i cannot drill a hole in the roof :) I am thinking of using the roof draining hole to solve the kink on the first floor.

As for the kink on the ground floor, any suggestions apart from drilling a hole.

No pumps involved at all.

I am connected to a city main (to fill my cistern) but the city water supply is shut off during the day due to water shortage. So i basically run on the cistern (private system) most of the time.

Images:


 
I would think it would work much better if the vent came off the top of the tank. That setup would act like trying to drain a water heater by just connecting a hose to the drain.Try removing the inspection on the top of the tank, I think you will see you will have a much better water flow. Is there a taping on the top of the tank? If so that should be your vent location.

John
 
Last edited:
Yeah i could remove the top cover that screws into the tank(see image black cover on top). Will try that and see if it works. But then it will be a temporary workaround as without the top cover dust and all sorts of thing will get into the cistern.

Image showing water cistern.
DSCF5180.jpg
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I would put a tee on the tank side of the fill valve and extend the branch of the tee above the tank. Place a valve on the branch line that can be turned off when filling the tank and on once the tank has been filled.
John
 
I know you are currently working on your water flow problem, but once it is resolved, please post up a few pics of the views from your house. It looks like a beautiful area and would just like to see more pics of it!
 
I would agree with jhonh2o on this one. your current setup will gulp for air when the cistern is draining.

the easyest solution would be to first try removing the tank lid.. then see if flow is better and if so do as he said and install a t on the tank side with a air vent off of it, or tap a vent into the tank itself.

I will use the time honored example here.

Your current setup is like taking a full 2 litre bottle and inverting it ( try this ) since the water creates a negative pressure inside the bottle the air must enter from where the water exits ( bubbles gulping to the top ) Placing a vent on either the top of the tank or on the inlet T would be the equivilent to poking a hole in the bottom of the 2 liter and then inverting it again... no negative pressure as the air can now enter above where the water is drawing from.

having seen the pictures ( thanks for the detailed pics ) I would wager that this will eliminate your problem.

let us know if this works. :)
 
Sorry for double post, but i thought it relevant to ask if you have re-enforced your roof after moving the cistern to it ?

water is VERY heavy 1 cubic foot ( equal to 28.34 litres of water ) weighs a hefty 62.4 lbs

if you have not, I would suggest some structural support, or a few shoring posts to support the weight as without it could cause you problems to your homes stucture in the future.
 
johnjh2o, Liquid,

I removed the top cover of the tank this morning and i started having water flowing at a decent pressure in all taps outside the house. For taps inside the house, kitchen sink and shower i have very little water.

I should install a pump to increase pressure for taps inside the house I suppose. Should i look for anything specific.

Well its definitely better than no water at all :)

Thanks again for help guys.

@Liquid : the roof is not re-enforced but there is a supporting wall below ;)

@havasu: I will post some images of the view around my house. Its nice I cannot complain about the view.
A few constructions are planned in the coming years around the house that will reduce scenery :(
 
are the exterior taps on the same level as the inside fixtures? the pressure should be the same if so, and if not i suspect line restriction or, ( happens often ) try unscrewing the airator from the spout as these often have calcium buildup that limits the flow.

without a pump every foot of water ( height ) will exert a pressure of .433 psi

glad to hear that the tank is supported by some means.
 
exterior taps are on a lower level than fixtures inside the house. Will try to clean any calcium build up and see.
 
havasu,

See image below for the view from my house.


As a kid i remember a much better scenery with less construction. :)
Enjoy.
 
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