New water heater noises normal?

[pepperjack]

So we do some work out of our garage. I had to close down my buisness and cover everything up when my water heater busted. Had a plumbing company install a new one. then found that my pressure regulator was bad (running over 100psi constantly, probably why the first one failed) so swapped out that myself. I set up a camera and water sensor to monitor it before getting back to work and taking everything back out-don’t want to risk flooding and damage if something goes wrong. The camera picked up some bangs and gongs that may be normal but I wanted to confirm, one guy at the company texted me he was finished with me yelled at me to leave him alone (I think he is the owner and I had asked a total of two questions-the model of the wh prior to them coming out and if this sound was normal) and the other guy called me and said it’s fine quit worrying. Might be fine but just want to verify, so figured I would find a forum and see what you guys think.

It’s a screen grab from my phone that recorded the video with the microphone so it did pick up some background audio of my listening to the video. The bangs happen as the water heats up and then as it cools, so obviously something is contracting and expanding. Didn’t do it over night. I just don’t know if it’s normal and I should get back to work or need to figure it out before opening up shop again.

(the camera is called cat food as we normally use it to monitor the cats when we are gone for a couple of days.)

 

[RS]

Do you have an expansion tank? If your prv has a check valve in it you need one.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I agree with RS, you need some type of expansion control if you don’t have it.

I’m not saying that’s your problem but it could be….

 

[pepperjack]

Do you have an expansion tank? If your prv has a check valve in it you need one.

Hi, they did not install an expansion tank and to my knowledge there isn't one anywhere. What I am seeing is that I am running a pretty steady 50psi at the moment on my gauge's black hand but the tattletale is occasionally spiking to 100ish. I think it is brief and related to faucets turning off and on though but was planning more to test that. Nothing like the old PRV which just maxed out the 100psi gauge and stayed there the whole time.

Do they sell prv without a check valve? I purchased the same type but if there are other factors then it is possible I got the wrong one?

 

[Twowaxhack]

Put your gauge on and run hot water until the water heaters burner fires up.

After it fires up close the faucet and do not use any water, close everything insuring there are no drips.

Monitor the gauge while the water heater burner heats the water.

See what the gauge does then. If the system is closed the pressure will climb

Anything above 80 psi is too high.

 

[pepperjack]

Ok. will do that now and report back.

 

[pepperjack]

Put your gauge on and run hot water until the water heaters burner fires up.

After it fires up close the faucet and do not use any water, close everything insuring there are no drips.

Monitor the gauge while the water heater burner heats the water.

See what the gauge does then. If the system is closed the pressure will climb

Anything above 80 psi is too high.

Ok. So, you have probably figured it out.

At the moment I am the only one home so nobody has used any sinks since I took a shower. Gauge read 100 on black 140 on red.

I opened a faucet and it immediately dropped to 50. I did as you suggested and the gauge slowly climbed. The popping started somewhere between 75-80. Then I called it at 100 (was still climbing) and it dropped to 50 as soon as I opened a cold water valve.

Anyone know if SC has any code requirements for whatever is needed to remedy this, or is it on me for not asking them and I should just find a different plumber that is better to work with and eat the extra cost of having someone new come out? Or whatever is needed im just guessing but am understanding its something like that.

 

[pepperjack]

Ill search the site, but is this something a thermal expansion valve would be appropriate for and be easier to install (hopefully a self install, fingers crossed, as I really don't want to message these guys again or invite them back into my house).

 

[pepperjack]

well some partial conclusions for the many waiting throngs. I called AO Smith and they said it sounded like a problem but it should have had an expansion tank. They sent out a tech to come inspect it. I tried one more time to get the original guys to do it but they wanted 350 dollars to install the expansion tank. I hired the tech to do it (though took photos first) that AO Smith sent out. I also called the license and regulation board who confirmed at both jurisdiction and state level that the plumber was required by code to install the expansion tank. Ironcially all the banging was happening this morning but did not do it while the tech was here which was just flabbergasting. Literally dozens of videos of it happening this morning, And I checked the pressure was 140 this morning, but while he was here pressure never with over 100 let alone 140. SO, what was about I have no idea. Anyway, the original guy was supposed to pull a permit but it seems he may not have from what I understand, though the tech said nobody really does. My plan for now is to dispute the 165 with my financial institution and if that doesn't work out I will start the formal complaint process with the licensing board. Don't really feel the need to do that if the 165 is covered as that is ultimately all it cost me. Hopefully it will not drag out any further, and if I am grossly misunderstanding something feel free to let me know!