New DIYer with P trap question

[Pittnb14]

Hello all,

I am a first time home owner making a first ever attempt at a plumbing related improvement.

I am changing the countertops in all of my bathrooms from cheap builder grade plastic to a nice quartz. My new sink drain, however, is roughly 1.5 inch deeper and roughly 2 inches further from the back wall, necessitating a change in location of the p trap.

Unfortunately, every joint in the p trap seems to be glued, including those joints meant to be tightened by hand. I’ve uploaded pictures here for reference.

My thought is that I’ll have to saw out the existing p trap near where it attaches to the wall and then fit the new drain with a new set-up.

Any advice on how to proceed? Guidance on how the new p trap set-up should look? Apologies in advance for dumb questions... first time repairs for me!

 

[breplum]

I recommend cutting the pipe coming out from the wall leaving just 1.25" stubbed. Get yourself 1-1/2" plastic tubular p-traps. They will come in a kit with a glue-on slip-joint trap adapter.
Try to only buy p-traps that come with orange or blue beveled slip joint washers. Do not get the type with transluscent poly washers because that plastic is hard and less forgiving than the colored washers.

 

[Pittnb14]

Thanks Breplum, very helpful!

Is there any standard or code as to how deep the “P” in the P trap needs to be?

I’ll have to stick with the current wall connection where it is, so am curious how deep it should be before reaching my drain pipe.

I recommend cutting the pipe coming out from the wall leaving just 1.25" stubbed. Get yourself 1-1/2" plastic tubular p-traps. They will come in a kit with a glue-on slip-joint trap adapter.
Try to only buy p-traps that come with orange or blue beveled slip joint washers. Do not get the type with transluscent poly washers because that plastic is hard and less forgiving than the colored washers.

 

[breplum]

I do not follow your question. If you are asking about the distance from the wall to the vertical drain, there is no code.
There are definite rules concerning depth of trap, but are addressed by standard shapes from the mfrs.

 

[voletl]

P-trap needs to be a depth of 2in to 4in to make a trap seal

 

[Jeff Handy]

Home Depot etc sell those squishier slip joint washers and trap washers separately, various types.
They also sell better plastic or metal nuts, some plastic nuts in the trap kits are too lightweight and worthless.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Home Depot slightly softer washers are dark green.

 

[Pittnb14]

Thank you all for the responses and help - I really appreciate it!

 

[jeffmattero76]

Not sure I understand your question in post#3, but will answer what I think you are asking.

Where the drain line exits the wall is fixed. You will add a trap adapter to that pipe. The arm of the P-trap can be pushed into or pulled out of the drain line, or cut if needed, so that the J-bend of the P-trap is directly under the sink outlet. A tailpiece will then be attached to the sink strainer to go into the J-bend. That tailpiece will likely need to be cut to correct length. One note... when buying the tailpiece make sure it comes with the correct washer. The washer is usually stuffed into the tailpiece. That washer is not the same profile as the washers that come with the P-trap.

 

[WyrTwister]

Go down to your favorite store that handles plumbing supplies . Purchase a P-Trap kit for your bathroom lavatory .

Take it home and start trying to assemble the pieces of the puzzle , according to the fine advice you have received here .

I am guessing , once you have the parts & pieces in your hands and can eye ball them , it will make much more sense to you .

The pipe that goes from the P-Trap to the wall pipe should have a small slope , to the wall connection .

Do not worry about the amount of " drop " in the P-Trap , the engineers have that figured out .

You will probably need some glue , hack saw , channel locks , torpedo level , pan / bucket to catch the water in , rags / old towels to wipe up what you spilled . A box or oscillating fan to help dry up your mess is helpful . Maybe a knife to de-burr the plastic pipe where you cut it .

There is no shame for a DIY'er to have to make multiple trips to the store to purchase parts & pieces . Remember , plastic plumbing is relatively inexpensive . Especially compared to what it would cost to hire a professional plumber . So , if you mess up a part or piece , every now and then , you are still ahead as far as cost .

Just do not make mistakes ( like cutting off too much , where the pipe hits the wall connection or the sink/lavatory connection ) . These would / are more difficult for a DIY'er to correct .

All this is not very difficult . The 2nd , 3rd .... one will be a breeze .

Best of luck to you ,

Wyr , who is not a plumber by trade
God bless

 

[Pittnb14]

Go down to your favorite store that handles plumbing supplies . Purchase a P-Trap kit for your bathroom lavatory .

Take it home and start trying to assemble the pieces of the puzzle , according to the fine advice you have received here .

I am guessing , once you have the parts & pieces in your hands and can eye ball them , it will make much more sense to you .

The pipe that goes from the P-Trap to the wall pipe should have a small slope , to the wall connection .

Do not worry about the amount of " drop " in the P-Trap , the engineers have that figured out .

You will probably need some glue , hack saw , channel locks , torpedo level , pan / bucket to catch the water in , rags / old towels to wipe up what you spilled . A box or oscillating fan to help dry up your mess is helpful . Maybe a knife to de-burr the plastic pipe where you cut it .

There is no shame for a DIY'er to have to make multiple trips to the store to purchase parts & pieces . Remember , plastic plumbing is relatively inexpensive . Especially compared to what it would cost to hire a professional plumber . So , if you mess up a part or piece , every now and then , you are still ahead as far as cost .

Just do not make mistakes ( like cutting off too much , where the pipe hits the wall connection or the sink/lavatory connection ) . These would / are more difficult for a DIY'er to correct .

All this is not very difficult . The 2nd , 3rd .... one will be a breeze .

Best of luck to you ,

Wyr , who is not a plumber by trade
God bless

Thanks, Wyr, to you and all of the above for the excellent advice!! I sincerely appreciate your time and guidance... looking forward to giving it a try this weekend!