Moving sink drain line up

[reg00000]

I bought a floating vanity and there is no way it is going to work without raising the sink drain pipe coming out of the wall about 6 inches. Getting into the main pipe is not possible due to copper plumbing in the way. I'd rather not fool around with that. Do I have any other options?

 

[frontporch]

Do you have any easy options like extending the drain to meet a p-trap than is lower than you want? Is this an aesthetic issue or is there something that obstructs the drain on the wall?

 

[reg00000]

Do you have any easy options like extending the drain to meet a p-trap than is lower than you want? Is this an aesthetic issue or is there something that obstructs the drain on the wall?

Basically, if I hang the vanity at the right height, the bottom of the p-trap would need to be below the bottom of the cabinet and extend into the bottom drawer space. There is 4" behind the drawer to the wall. The cabinet has 2 drawers (the top one being u shaped). I don't see any way to modify the vanity to make it work. I bought the cabinet online and put it together so returning it and getting something else isn't really an option either.

 

[MicEd69]

If you have enough room and if you can make the geometry work, you could open up the wall to the left and expose the existing sanitary tee, drain and vent line. You then will need to cut the existing sanitary tee out and splice in repair couplings, pipe, and a new sanitary tee at the height needed.

 

[frontporch]

The cabinet has 2 drawers (the top one being u shaped). I don't see any way to modify the vanity to make it work

Can you post a picture of it and also include the height of your drain off the finished floor. I guess it would also be good to know when your target height is for the vanity

 

[Twowaxhack]

1. Return the vanity
2. Call a pro
3. Have the ptrap protrude into the bottom drawer and live with it.

Those are your practical choices.

 

[reg00000]

Can you post a picture of it and also include the height of your drain off the finished floor. I guess it would also be good to know when your target height is for the vanity

This is the back of the vanity. There is only 9" between the top support and bottom support to fit the drain and water connections. The current drain height is 18" to the bottom of the drain pipe which I think is pretty standard. Ideal counter height would be 35-36". The vanity is 18" tall and the countertop is 1".

As MicEd69 commented above, I can tap into the existing line accessing it on the left. The problem is where the current drain outlet is there is no air hammer and above it there is so there is no room for the pvc pipe without moving the copper.

I can modify the back of the bottom drawer for the p-trap and the counter height would be ~33". That might be my best option. It is a powder room and not a master bath so people are just washing their hands.

 

[frontporch]

Not sure what current counter heights are but my kitchen is 36 and my 1/2 bathroom sink is 32. I did install a vanity upstairs where I raised the height 3” and covered it with molding I like the idea of the floating vanity and a higher sink height. Might not work as well for shorter folks or kids but it is more comfortable

That said 18 is about right for the drain in the wall and that vanity was probably designed for a 32” sink height. If you have to cut out the back of a drawer you probably won’t open much I might go with that option. Cutting through the bottom of the drawer or the vanity itself probably looks like a mistake was made. You certainly don’t want to remove any structural part of the back of the vanity and I don’t see why you would as the p trap would be installed after the vanity is mounted

I wouldn’t mess with what is in the walls either

 

[dmmsr]

Well if you really want to do this yourself and afraid of the copper pipes. Cut the 90 in the wall off and ferco cap it. Or cut the sheet rock open more and cut the tee out completely

Install an 1 1/2" wye lower down. Either bring your new piece up out of the wye near the center and 45 up to where you need to go and 90 out or 90 up and out depending on your height. Or 45 to make it straight accross out of the wye and 90 up and 90 out. If I were to do this I would leave the piece coming out of the wye on a 45 and 45 up to where I need to go.

Not the ideal way but if you want to do it yourself it will work.

 

[MicEd69]

Not the ideal way but if you want to do it yourself it will work.

It MAY work but it will not be per code the way you describe it. That would leave the sink P-trap without a vent. I guess you could do as you describe and add an AAV in an accessible box above the sink if there is no mirror of medicine cabinet there. An AAV cannot be inside a wall.

 

[dmmsr]

It is vented. The connection is lower. I meant cut and cap off the pipe coming out of the bull of the tee or cut the old tee out completely. Install a wye under the copper pipe and reconnect the vent. Then bring the line over and up.

I would like to see the trap level with the connection. But in reality no different then the trap of a toilet being above the stack connection.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Well if you really want to do this yourself and afraid of the copper pipes. Cut the 90 in the wall off and ferco cap it. Or cut the sheet rock open more and cut the tee out completely

Install an 1 1/2" wye lower down. Either bring your new piece up out of the wye near the center and 45 up to where you need to go and 90 out or 90 up and out depending on your height. Or 45 to make it straight accross out of the wye and 90 up and 90 out. If I were to do this I would leave the piece coming out of the wye on a 45 and 45 up to where I need to go.

Not the ideal way but if you want to do it yourself it will work.

Sounds like you’re making an S-trap.

 

[dmmsr]

If it has a long enough trap arm it should fine. 1 1/2" pipe would require a 3 inch arm. Could try this though.


Have it 45 straight up 90 over then 90 out with a 3 inch trap arm which is equivalent to the the two fitting sockets.

 

[MicEd69]

 

[dmmsr]

I understand what I said may not be 100 percent but to do this without moving the copper would be the only way. An always add a trap with studor vent attached.

Oatey does make a chrome aav so if it is exposed it looks more appealing.

 

[MicEd69]

Install a wye under the copper pipe and reconnect the vent

That would place the vent below the P-trap which means it isn't a vent. The vent would have to be above where the copper pipes are located. If the drain connection cannot be done to the left of the copper pipes by cutting out more drywall, cutting out the existing Sanitary tee and install one at the proper elevation, then an AAV would have to be used, or a new vent to the attic.

 

[MicEd69]

But in reality no different then the trap of a toilet being above the stack connection.

There is a HUGE difference!

 

[dmmsr]

There is a HUGE difference!

Like I said in my original post not the ideal way.

But given certain circumstances have I done this, yes. Did it work? Yes. Was it the best way, no. I did add the trap like I posted with a studor vent.

Before studor vents were allowed in my jurisdiction I had done it without adding an aav. And never had an issue. There are times where being out in the field you have to be creative to make somethings work. I never did anything that caused any harm or damage. If this is the cabinet he wants with not having to move the copper lines then this is really a viable solution. You have an existing vent which is what the studor vent requires to work. Then you have the studor vent added to the trap there should be no problem. In my original posts I did forget to mention the aav as I was in the middle of other things at the same time.

 

[MicEd69]

When advise is given on this forum, anything not per code should be noted.

"It is vented. The connection is lower. I meant cut and cap off the pipe coming out of the bull of the tee or cut the old tee out completely. Install a wye under the copper pipe and reconnect the vent. Then bring the line over and up." This cannot be done and meet any code. As twowaxhack said, this is a S-trap.

"I would like to see the trap level with the connection. But in reality, no different than the trap of a toilet being above the stack connection." Apples and oranges and this statement doesn't make sense.

"Before studor vents were allowed in my jurisdiction I had done it without adding an aav. And never had an issue." This is a funny statement in that unless you have a vent on the P-trap, it would not pass inspection. So, either what you did in the field was not inspected, or the inspector didn't do his job.

"You have an existing vent which is what the studor vent requires to work." This statement doesn't make sense.

"In my original posts I did forget to mention the AAV as I was in the middle of other things at the same time." In your original posts, you were saying the P-trap was vented without an AAV. Adding an AAV will make this per code, except that Illinois does not allow them, which I just looked up. Oops.

 

[dmmsr]

When advise is given on this forum, anything not per code should be noted.

"It is vented. The connection is lower. I meant cut and cap off the pipe coming out of the bull of the tee or cut the old tee out completely. Install a wye under the copper pipe and reconnect the vent. Then bring the line over and up." This cannot be done and meet any code. As twowaxhack said, this is a S-trap.

"I would like to see the trap level with the connection. But in reality, no different than the trap of a toilet being above the stack connection." Apples and oranges and this statement doesn't make sense.

"Before studor vents were allowed in my jurisdiction I had done it without adding an aav. And never had an issue." This is a funny statement in that unless you have a vent on the P-trap, it would not pass inspection. So, either what you did in the field was not inspected, or the inspector didn't do his job.

"You have an existing vent which is what the studor vent requires to work." This statement doesn't make sense.

"In my original posts I did forget to mention the AAV as I was in the middle of other things at the same time." In your original posts, you were saying the P-trap was vented without an AAV. Adding an AAV will make this per code, except that Illinois does not allow them, which I just looked up. Oops.

I never meant any harm here.

I will say I have had inspectors pass this type of situation in the past. I would not have suggested it if it was not allowed by my jurisdiction. But again they seen the situations I was in and said okay.

As far as studor vent in the instructions it does say that you need a minimum of one vent for it to work properly.