moving shower drain in concrete

[amkaos]

hi:
im new here.
i know nothing about plumbing..

i need to move shower drain in basement floor.
i would like to know how much concrete to saw out and how best to tie into existing drain line..

i feel like i should cut existing shower drain pipe and attach a new elbow onto it..not touching the toilet drain ..
i dont know atall if this is right..

i attach a pic of what it looks like..measure are correct but not drawn exactly to scale

FWIW, tho not shown, the toilet line runs North to South, or from stud wall towards bottom of page..

i appreciate all replies..

thanx

 

[phishfood]

If you have enough depth to the Ptrap on the existing shower drain, the easiest thing to do would be to use 90 ells to move the drain riser over to the new location.

 

[havasu]

That is what I did on my own install.

 

[amkaos]

If you have enough depth to the Ptrap on the existing shower drain, the easiest thing to do would be to use 90 ells to move the drain riser over to the new location.

could you detail this more please.. like where do i elbow from etc..
someone told me that i wasnt sposed to elbow 90-- just 45

thanx for your replies

 

[phishfood]

After you remove the concrete and the dirt, cut the pipe that runs between the Ptrap and the shower drain a short distance above the Ptrap. Then use short sweep 90 ells to move the pipe over to the new location.

I am not aware of any code that disallows using 90 ells in this situation, though I obviously don't know all of the different codes. I do know that this will work.

 

[amkaos]

After you remove the concrete and the dirt, cut the pipe that runs between the Ptrap and the shower drain a short distance above the Ptrap. Then use short sweep 90 ells to move the pipe over to the new location.

I am not aware of any code that disallows using 90 ells in this situation, though I obviously don't know all of the different codes. I do know that this will work.

ok.. i think i understand.. is there anything special i need to cut cast pipe?

thanx again for replies.

 

[Mr_David]

The existing drain probably does not go directly to the toilet.
I modified your drwg. the toilet most likely goes toward the wall to connect to a vent. the shower drain has 2 most likely option but until you open floor you will not know. One option is it goes directly to it's own vent in same wall as toilet vent or it could even be in a different wall. 2nd option is it has a common vent with the toilet. Actually you need to just open the floor and find the drain. expose it and then determine how you can relocate it.
You mostlikely will be able to use an 1/8 or 1/4 bend to get it where you want it. The p-trap can swing to fine tune the location

 

[amkaos]

The existing drain probably does not go directly to the toilet.
I modified your drwg. the toilet most likely goes toward the wall to connect to a vent. the shower drain has 2 most likely option but until you open floor you will not know. One option is it goes directly to it's own vent in same wall as toilet vent or it could even be in a different wall. 2nd option is it has a common vent with the toilet. Actually you need to just open the floor and find the drain. expose it and then determine how you can relocate it.
You mostlikely will be able to use an 1/8 or 1/4 bend to get it where you want it. The p-trap can swing to fine tune the location

well... thank you muchly for the re-draw and details.
i will open up and go from there..on Saturday.
i will repost in this thread what happens and such..

thanx again

 

[Mr_David]

I cut cast iron with a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a 5" metal cut off blade.
Use a respirator or a really good dust mask. Also eye and ear protection.
you can use a mission coupling to connect PVC or ABS pipe.
Do a search or google images. These fittings have been mention here before.
Take some picturs if you can. We love pictures.

 

[amkaos]

I cut cast iron with a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a 5" metal cut off blade.
Use a respirator or a really good dust mask. Also eye and ear protection.
you can use a mission coupling to connect PVC or ABS pipe.
Do a search or google images. These fittings have been mention here before.
Take some picturs if you can. We love pictures.

ok.. i think i can get angle grinder etc..
thankyou

i will post pics

 

[user 1231]

Hey amkaos,
I am curious about your project. Is there a lavatory in the bathroom and how old is the plumbing or even the house in general. I liked Mr. David's drawings and to be honest i do not know much about ks plumbing codes. For curiosity sake I also wonder if wet venting is allowed in KS because if it is then Mr. Davids drawings may not be correct. It would be great so see some pictures of the basement after you get the concrete cut. I have done 200 or so basement upfits like you are doing, but in North Carolina our plumbing code allows wet venting, whereas in California, I think they do not.... I could be wrong but I imagine that individual venting is necessary. In any event give us all some pictures. Good luck

 

[amkaos]

Hey amkaos,
I am curious about your project. Is there a lavatory in the bathroom and how old is the plumbing or even the house in general. I liked Mr. David's drawings and to be honest i do not know much about ks plumbing codes. For curiosity sake I also wonder if wet venting is allowed in KS because if it is then Mr. Davids drawings may not be correct. It would be great so see some pictures of the basement after you get the concrete cut. I have done 200 or so basement upfits like you are doing, but in North Carolina our plumbing code allows wet venting, whereas in California, I think they do not.... I could be wrong but I imagine that individual venting is necessary. In any event give us all some pictures. Good luck

well .. i dont know atall what wet vent means.. i am in over my head for sure.
this started when a plumber wanted 1000$ just to move this thing..
he says it will take 3hrs if i pour concrete back..
now i dont deny his worth; i just think i can do this w/ right help etc.
soo... i step back to educate myself ..

this house was built in 76. i see cast vents soo i just assume that it is cast in concrete as well.

i attached pics. obviously, the old drain is on same line as faucet.

you will see that there is 2" offset in existing wall.. i will furr out to line up.
thanx

i pour water into existing drain and see it go to the toilet line in front heading towards the toilet vent..
also, i see an opening in toilet drain towards the existing drain along the dotted line i drew in original pic.
if im able to attach to existing trap, then i spose none of that matters. i just give info as i find it..
thanx for your interest and replies

 

[amkaos]

cut out concrete today.
this is drain exposed.
i will cutoff cast pipe and install abs to new drain location.
prybar shows where new drain is going.

 

[phishfood]

It appears as though you can cut the cast iron just to the right of the bell (enlarged section of pipe), use one of the Mission Bands mentioned by Mr. David to adapt toe PVC or ABS, a short section of pipe, a 45 ell, another short section of pipe, and then the new Ptrap.

I am assuming that the new drain location is about where the prybar is stuck into the dirt?

 

[havasu]

Looking great so far. What did you use to remove the concrete?

 

[amkaos]

thanx for the replies.
i used an electric jack hammer.. took about 40 min..including clearing out the dirt/gravel etc.

does someone know the best source for a 2" offset flange for cast?
i see prices between 11$ - 50$ and dont know what the differences could be.
but i really want a better option than caulking the offset flange..

this is for 2 reasons:
the finished wall including new tile will only be 11 1/4" to center line.
i want to throw toilet to the right to equalize spaces between new sink and shower base etc..
plus i need all the room i can get between new shower and toilet..

i will post pics as i progress.
thanx

 

[havasu]

I'm sure others will get insparation with your construction. Thanks for the pics and keep 'em coming!

 

[amkaos]

this is floor roughed in.
blue chalk line is for new wall furr out .

1/4" plywood under toilet flange is for tile height.
i used 2" offset w/ rubber bushing and industrial sealing caulk.

this is so i can get as much room as possible between toilet and shower..plus i can now make all fixtures reveal equal... i needed another 1/2" off wall line to make sure i have room for tile etc.. it is now 12 1/2" off studs..
if i need more, please tell me now..

now, a master plumber told me how wrong i am for doing this.. im sposed to jack hammer the entire cast out..

i dont wanna reinvent the wheel.. i just want to drain a toilet..
if anyone has any suggs, i am open and its not too late till i pour concrete.

thanx