move toilet, no vertical left for closet sweep elbow

[bbxrider]

moving toilet 5", so at 1/4" per foot, soil pipe now 1-1/4" higher than at original connection point, so.....vertical rise for the flange long sweep elbow brings flange almost 1" above existing slab...I need that flange in the pic, I believe to adjust it to be horizontal
seeing some posts where ok to use standard or 4x3 elbow which does not have as much vertical rise, I thought code req'd the long sweep?
somehow raise floor 1", at least in and around toilet? that would be a royal pain and honky to boot!!
any suggestions

 

[frodo]

moving toilet 5", so at 1/4" per foot, soil pipe now 1-1/4" higher than at original connection point, so.....vertical rise for the flange
you are moving the toilet 5'' and you are trying to have 1 1/4'' fall ? why?


long sweep elbow brings flange almost 1" above existing slab...I need that flange in the pic, I believe to adjust it to be horizontal
seeing some posts where ok to use standard or 4x3 elbow which does not have as much vertical rise, I thought code req'd the long sweep?
somehow raise floor 1", at least in and around toilet? that would be a royal pain and honky to boot!!
any suggestions

use a 3x4x8x12 closet bend with a 1'' x4'' caulk type closet collar, lead it in

what is the elevation of the finish floor from sub floor?

mud bed? mud bed and tile ?

 

[Mr_David]

Why are you using cast iron?? use a ABS or PVC closet bend and connect it to the old cast or new cast iron with a mission banded coupling. Then just glue on the flange.
You don't need a long sweep. just use a closet bend. is the horizontal 4" or 3"
or if you must use a ho hub closet bend ( cast iron ) and install a flange with lead wool and oakum. Look for my thread on how to install a cast iron flange

 

[bbxrider]

ok, thanks for the help
first thing, typo, not moving 5" but 5' (feet) hence the 1-1/4 rise, 5*1/4
my horizontal is 3" and all abs
I would prefer not to use any iron, but my supply house only had that blue iron flange with the 3 screws that I thought was to use to put a compensating angle on the flange itself to offset the angle from the 5' of rising soil pipe
need a flange that I can tweak to make it level, parallel to the floor, because the 1-1/4 rise has that annoying angle if just setting the flange straight on!!
frodo... my sub floor is a slab, putting 1/4" ceramic tile with thin set mortor to finish.. so guess I only need to deal with 3/4", ha ha, that pic of the flange you posted, with the curves, I can tweak those curves on the elbow to give it a small compensating angle to perpendicular?? and that flange fits over (female) on a 3" soil pipe? if it is female, what seals the connection onto the soil pipe?
of course I have never seen such a flange anywhere

 

[KULTULZ]

Isn't only 1/8" drop per foot required with 3" pipe or larger...

Need an on field call here frodo...

 

[frodo]

nope, 4'' and larger may have a grade of minimum 1%

3'' minimum grade is 2%

 

[bbxrider]

not sure what your bubble pic is showing and how that is answering the question of the flange being 1" above my sub floor at the end of the 5' extension???
my level has 5 lines 0, 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2, when level, the bubble left edge touches the 0 line, measuring the rise from right to left, when the rise is 1/8" the left side of the bubble touches the 1/8 line, when the rise is 1/4" the left side of the bubble touches the 1/4 line, etc

I'm thinking I need a flange-elbow combination that both allows the makeup of losing about 1" of vertical depth and allows the flange to angle off of perpendicular by enuf angle to flatten out the angle from the 1" rise in the pipe,
I would think this comes up often enough when moving a toilet and connecting to the existing soil pipe that the slope causes needing both an elbow/flange combo to use less vertical height and make up the angle

 

[Jamesplumbing06]

If it's only an inch and only an inch cut the hub of the 2 fittings 1/2" each. 3" fittings have 1.5" hub depth. If your butting them together with CLEANER and glue you should be ok with it. But a plug test is always recommended. If it holds standing water then it will hold flushing. After releasing plug make sure your stand elbow has no water in it. Then continue your remodel

 

[bbxrider]

thanks for the suggestion
I think I can trim off the 1/2" each side as you say and be ok, the elbow can be trimmed even more than 1/2" if needed, and I agree with my supply house, the BI won't really see the trimming, looking down at it as they do!
also my fears about the angle have been over blown per my supply house advice.. the flange diameter is 7", therefore it will only be rising about 1/8" from side to side, which I can wedge etc, the bottom of the toilet fitting around it should be just fine level

 

[frodo]

instead of using a 4x3 90,

use a 3'' 90, and a 4'' fitting closet collar \\\

 

[KnarlyCarl]

Isn't only 1/8" drop per foot required with 3" pipe or larger...

Need an on field call here frodo...

Where I live, we follow that rule, 1/8" per foot fall on 3".
Last I checked on Ohio plumbing code that is

 

[Jamesplumbing06]

instead of using a 4x3 90,

use a 3'' 90, and a 4'' fitting closet collar \\\

Yeah I didn't think of that. And if I can throw in another 2cent? If possible get schedule 40 pvc. The black abs pipe becomes brittle inside concrete

 

[Mr_David]

Yeah I didn't think of that. And if I can throw in another 2cent? If possible get schedule 40 pvc. The black abs pipe becomes brittle inside concrete

??? It does ???

just wrap any plastic pipe that is embedded in concrete with some duct tap


That very little bit of fall on flange is negligible. You're not bolting a valve head to an engine block. That's why you use wax gaskets.

This is the one I like to use the most often for repairs. set your Bongo 4 x3 closet bend.
Pour back the concrete.
cut off 4" flush to floor. push this inside the 4"
Or use same ABS bongo
Wrap the outside of 4" with 1" of foam.
Pour concrete.
Cut off 4" flush.
pull out the foam and use a 4" flange that glues onto out side of pipe.
If you screw it up you can use the 1st option to glue flange to inside.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sioux-Chief-TKO-3-in-x-4-in-Black-ABS-Adjustable-Metal-Ring-Hub-x-Inside-Fit-Closet-Flange-884-ATMPK/202274073

 

[bbxrider]

liking mr david's options, just that I have to it all set to pour for the rough inspection, I'm thinking I need to have the flange already attached for the inspection.
I suppose I can just put it there for the inspection and then do the pour and cut flush after, that sure makes it easy to set the flange about the 1/4"+ above the pour for tiles I will be putting down for the final floor
I thought that flange had like o-rings to seal, but don't see those in the pic, so guessing this one glues on.
code here in ca 1/4" per foot, a friend who is a journyman plumber tells me he sets all the drain for new construction at the 1/4" , the supply house claims anything 1/8 to 1/4 will pass. supposedly you can ask a question and an inspector will return a call, but that just doesn't seem to happen