Major Issues with New Sump Pump

[Sapphire1166]

Let me preface this by saying I'm new to plumbing. I'm not even a DIYer. I'm just a homeowner that hired a company 8 months ago to install a sump pump in my crawlspace, so please go easy on my lack of knowledge.

Hired a licensed "professional" foundation company for an inspection for a house I was purchasing and was told we had some crawlspace moisture and needed a french drain and sump pump. Paid nearly $3k for it. A week after they dug the drain and installed the sump pump, my husband noticed that the pump was not even plugged into anything. Called the company and they came in and installed an attachment to our crawlspace light and assured us that everything was operational.

Flash forward to a few weeks ago when our area got super heavy rains. Sump pump did not turn on (no loss of power- it just never worked) and our sunken finished basement area (about 700 sq ft) next to our crawlspace flooded and we ended up with 3 inches of water. Original company refused to answer email or phone calls, so we got another company to come out to assess the sump pump.

New company explained that the sump pump installed was a standard low-grade pump you can purchase at Lowe's. Not a great thing, considering we spent so much money, but our estimate from the old company was very vague and did not specify a specific pump. New company also pointed out there was no check valve on the sump pump, and that there should be a dedicated electrical outlet for the pump. Old company had attached an outlet to our light and run an extension cord. New company said that's not to code any way, shape, or how and sump pumps should not be run with extension cords.

Before I start playing hard ball with the old company to fix these issues, or have the new company fix them and work on compensation from the old company, would like to know industry norms for sump pump installation. New company said that a check valve should ALWAYS be installed on a sump pump and that anyone who installs these for a professional company should have done so. Internet search says there "should" be one, but it's not imperative. Would I be in the right for demanding one be installed by new company?

Thanks in advance for any advice to a novice like me.

 

[KULTULZ]

Watch this video- http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,1631605,00.html

The 2nd contractor is correct regarding the check valve and dedicated circuit. They (pump) now have to be on a GFCI circuit and an accessory warning alarm would be helpful to sound if the circuit tripped.

 

[Sapphire1166]

Here are some pictures of the work. Do you see any other major issues here?

http://imgur.com/a/Le22p

 

[Matt30]

Do not put sump/effluent pumps on GFI circuits. You will get neucience tripping, resulting in another flood. Building code here has made these exceptions, even when receptacles for effluent pumps are outdoors.

The check valve is always good practice but not 100% necessary. The determining factor being the lift. You do not want the lift to be so high that when the pump shuts off, it allows a lot of water back into the sump pit, causing the pump to activate with water running backwards through it will burn it up in a hurry. If a check valve is installed, be sure to drill a 1/4" breather hole below it so it doesn't air lock.

 

[KULTULZ]

Do not put sump/effluent pumps on GFI circuits. You will get neucience tripping, resulting in another flood. Building code here has made these exceptions, even when receptacles for effluent pumps are outdoors.

We're currently using the orange extension cord to connect to an actual working outlet outside our house.

Are you on NEC up there Matt? The GFCI for unfinished basements and crawlspaces was introduced in the 2008 NEC. It all depends on local AHJ adopting regulation(s) and more importantly the inspectors interpretation.

The latest GFCI technology has lessened the chance of nuisance trips to almost nill.

I am a$$-u-me(ing) all of this was done by a licensed contractor with permits.

 

[Sapphire1166]

I am a$$-u-me(ing) all of this was done by a licensed contractor with permits.

Amazingly, yes. Done by a licensed contractor (I even checked the license before hiring them). I doubt a permit was pulled. We did a home renovation mortgage and had to rush to identify contractors within 2 weeks. While we coordinated with the company that did this, they were paid by our general contractor out of our home renovation escrow account. Our contract with the general contractor states he is responsible for pulling all permits. But because we coordinated in hiring this company (although he was paid by our contractor), I'm not sure where the responsibility lies in the permitting.

The only reason we have it plugged into the orange extension cord is because we've been experiencing showers all week, some with the potential for heavy downpours. Since the company that installed this installed it with a (useless) extension cord, we figure it's better to at least have it hooked up to a working one while our area receives rain so we don't have to deal with the flooding again.

I'm calling the company again to give them one last chance to make this right. Should I demand a check valve on the system, even though the rise is only a foot or so to where it dumps out? I see there is debate about using a GFCI receptacle. At the very least I will demand they install a dedicated receptacle so there are NO extension cords, but where should I stand on the GCFI? Thinking regulations require it, but there are debates on whether we should actually do it.

 

[KULTULZ]

I'm calling the company again to give them one last chance to make this right. Should I demand a check valve on the system, even though the rise is only a foot or so to where it dumps out? I see there is debate about using a GFCI receptacle. At the very least I will demand they install a dedicated receptacle so there are NO extension cords, but where should I stand on the GCFI? Thinking regulations require it, but there are debates on whether we should actually do it.

The check valve is not that important due to the low rise (as long as the actual drain line has the proper slope to drain).

A dedicated circuit (and dedicated receptacle - NO extension cords) is important as if the pump is on a multi-circuit, anything that might trip the breaker will also shut off the pump.

You really need to consult a licensed electrician or the local AHJ concerning the GFCI. Any light or accessory circuit should be GFCI down there also (IMO). I surely wouldn't want to low crawl down there when it is wet...

You also need to find out if a permit was needed and pulled.

 

[frodo]

The check valve is not that important due to the low rise (as long as the actual drain line has the proper slope to drain).

A dedicated circuit (and dedicated receptacle - NO extension cords) is important as if the pump is on a multi-circuit, anything that might trip the breaker will also shut off the pump.

You really need to consult a licensed electrician or the local AHJ concerning the GFCI. Any light or accessory circuit should be GFCI down there also (IMO). I surely wouldn't want to low crawl down there when it is wet...

You also need to find out if a permit was needed and pulled.

code requires a union, a check valve and a full port gate valve outside the
pit of the pump,

yes i would call them with a 5 day response threat.
they will respond to your demands in five working days or you will seek legal action

post the threat on their face book page,

 

[Zanne]

I don't have any knowledge on this subject so I can't be of any help, but I really hope you get this resolved and I'm sorry that you got screwed over by the contractor.

In my opinion, even though you helped the general contractor a bit, the onus should have been on him to make sure the permits were pulled. That is one of the reasons people hire general contractors-- because they are the ones who have experience (or should) with pulling permits and such.

Remind me that someday when my internet is cooperating better, I need to research to come up with a good list for building and electrical codes by state and territory to help people figure out what the rules are in their area.

 

[KULTULZ]

code requires a union, a check valve and a full port gate valve outside the pit of the pump,

THANX...

My learned FACTOID of the DAY....

I kept looking @ the install and glad I wasn't the one who had to service it.

I see by this diagram that the power receptacle must be 4ft. off the floor also.

 

[KULTULZ]

I don't have any knowledge on this subject so I can't be of any help, but I really hope you get this resolved and I'm sorry that you got screwed over by the contractor.

In my opinion, even though you helped the general contractor a bit, the onus should have been on him to make sure the permits were pulled. That is one of the reasons people hire general contractors-- because they are the ones who have experience (or should) with pulling permits and such.

Remind me that someday when my internet is cooperating better, I need to research to come up with a good list for building and electrical codes by state and territory to help people figure out what the rules are in their area.

And he should have personally inspected the install and confirmed it passed inspection.

There are books for the consumer to help understand and comply with code, but that is why they hire contractors. Should I have to search numerous medical texts if I am due for brain surgery? (Watch it frodo)...