Looking for tips for sweat fitting copper water lines.

[Copymutt]

When sweating joints in tight spaces slip a backer of ceramic tile or other non combustable between the joint and the framing or insulation or wiring. Even though you may not be able to circumnavigate the total joint, if its freshly cleaned and fluxed the solder will flow completely around the pipe joint. I also have more faith in copper than pex, only because pex is comparatively new and too easy

 

[three_jeeps]

If you use this flux, The only way you will have a leak is if you forget to solder the damn thing, it pre cleans and tins . The Nick solder is fantastic. It is lead free but flows like it is lead solder
i love the stuff and these are what you find on my truck
<pic snip>
https://www.ferguson.com/product/jw-harris-nick-nickel-solder-hnick61/_/A-ProdFamily-221103

use C-flux and Nick solder
The tricks to copper piping is CLEAN clean the pipe and inside of the fitting
do not touch the pipe ends after cleaning, the oil on your fingers will cause the flux to not take at that spot
after soldering you MUST wipe the joints wih a damp rag to remove unused flux

You question on soldering in tight spots. you actually answered you own question.
the solder wicks around the pipe.

the main trick is your torch. those big ass flame throwers they sell at the big box stores do not allow you control over your heat. it is off or on..
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Above is a pos flame thrower, Below This is the second choice
https://www.plumbingsupplynow.com/stk-9-torch-swirl-for-use-with-map-pro-or-lp-gas-0386-0403?msclkid=055a0d9636741781af6053a852ef7faa&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP Bing Shopping All Products&utm_term=4574861726366157&utm_content=Catch All

First choice, The one that will do every thing you want will run you about 200 bucks
https://www.plumbersstock.com/uniweld-k37-acetylene-b-tank-brazing-kit-wth3-sc.html?
utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&scid=scbplp6665&sc_intid=6665

that is the torch, then you need a ''B" tank
https://www.riogrande.com/product/BAcetyleneTank/500060?msclkid=31583b3143c51f1d8b3d650f25cd4ca8&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping_Tools & Equipment&utm_term=4584963490469890&utm_content=Tools & Equipment

I have a tank I will sell for 50 bucks. but shipping would kill that deal

the better the torch the better the solder job.


heat the back side bottom of fitting and solder the opposite side top
the solder will run to the heat.
I tippy tap. While i am heating i am tapping the pipe with my solder. when it starts to run I pull the heat away

when soldering a vertical joint, solder the top first then the bottom

TIP
if you have to solder in a tight spot up against something
heat the pipe 2 or 3 inches back. it will heat the joint. takes a minute longer . no biggie

Thank you and the rest of the posters. Yes - temp regulated torch! I've noticed that heating a joint with the flame thrower sometimes does cause the solder to boil out. My technique is to turn the gas down to lowest it will go without going out, heat the pipe, take torch away, then solder. Which sometimes resulted in a cold joint or not enough solder.
I am aware of the capillary action - when it works well, the joint is solid. I am trying to develop the skill to build up a nice bead/bridge around the seam, as well as getting it to wick and not boil out.
I recently found out the hard way about out of round pipe & fittings...I have no real good way to check except to put them together and visually check. Sometimes I'll cut about 1" off the end of the pipe if I have any doubt.

I do appreciate the product pointers. and the tip about soldering a vertical joint....that is the kind of info I am looking for.
Thanks again!!!

 

[CT18]

I'm with Frodo. It also looks like trash when installed. It takes the skill out of the trade. You can also throw those push fit pvc fittings out while your at it.