I need help troubleshooting pump/switch problem.

[CaseyB88]

I recently had an issue with a pump running continuously. I adjusted the pressure settings on my switch to a very low setting and my water was working but at a very low pressure.

I am not able to check the pressure on my system because the pressure switch is broken so I decided to buy a new 40/60 switch and installed it today. I thought it would solve my problem but now the pump is running continuously again.

Is there anyone experienced here that can offer any ideas as to why this is happening? The problem seems directly related to the switch since the previous switch worked on low pressure.

Ive done some assessing and there appears to be no apparent leeks or wet spots in my yard.

Old switch = pump working and very little pressure.

New switch = good water flow but pump won’t shut off.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[CaseyB88]

Sorry meant pressure gauge is broken.

 

[sarg]

You're not getting suggestions due to lack of info.
Is this a well ?
What type of pump?
Do you have a pressure tank?
How old is the system?
Pictures usually help.

 

[RS]

It's apparent that your pump will not build up the pressure that you want, a new pressure switch cannot fix that, and neither can a new pressure tank. You have a pump problem, or a leak somewhere. For the time being to get by you can lower the pressure setting on the new switch so the pump shuts off. One thing to check is the tube going to the pressure switch, make sure it's open, or if the switch is screwed directly into the manifold, make sure that's open.

 

[CaseyB88]

Thank you each for replying. It turns out that the pump was shot. I bit the bullet and called someone out to look at it. I appreciate the help.

 

[JEG in Raleigh]

Thank you each for replying. It turns out that the pump was shot. I bit the bullet and called someone out to look at it. I appreciate the help.

I had this problem a couple of years ago. It was the check valve on my pump that malfunctioned, so the pressure tank kept pushing the water back down the well. The pressure tank never reached a high enough pressure to trigger the pressure switch to shut off. My pump was running continuously for several months, and I did not know it. My electric bill was $50 more than normal, and I could not figure out why. I had to have the pump replaced.

 

[Valveman]

Well, a check valve only works AFTER the pump shuts off. So, a check valve cannot be a reason the pump could not build enough pressure to shut off. You could have had a leak in the pipe, but more likely the pump was just worn and not able to build as much pressure since a new pump solved the problem.

 

[JEG in Raleigh]

Well, a check valve only works AFTER the pump shuts off. So, a check valve cannot be a reason the pump could not build enough pressure to shut off. You could have had a leak in the pipe, but more likely the pump was just worn and not able to build as much pressure since a new pump solved the problem.

When I had my pump problem, the pump was running continuously for several months and I did have water pressure in the house. That is why I did not know that the pump was running continuously.....because I had water and no indication that I had a problem. The only clue was my electric bill being $50 per month higher than usual. My pressure tank was not reaching 60 psi, so the pressure switch was not turning off the pump. So if it wasn't the check valve, is the only other reason for this condition a leak in the pipe?

Second question.....what would the symptoms of a bad check valve be?

 

[Valveman]

Symptom of a bad check is that the pump comes back on when no one is using water. A dry well, large leak in the pipe, frozen pipe, blockage, or a worn pump are causes of the pump not shutting off when no water is being used. Electric bill is usually the first clue the pump is not shutting off. But by then the pump has gotten hot from not shutting off and the impellers melt, causing the pump to build even less pressure.

This is why it is important to have some device that shuts the pump off on low amperage. Low amperage would happen if the well is pumped dry, or the line is frozen or blocked. If the pump does not shut off on low amperage when these things happen, the water in the pump gets hot and further destroys the pump. By the time an overload or breaker trips it is too late to save the pump.

 

[JEG in Raleigh]

Symptom of a bad check is that the pump comes back on when no one is using water. A dry well, large leak in the pipe, frozen pipe, blockage, or a worn pump are causes of the pump not shutting off when no water is being used. Electric bill is usually the first clue the pump is not shutting off. But by then the pump has gotten hot from not shutting off and the impellers melt, causing the pump to build even less pressure.

This is why it is important to have some device that shuts the pump off on low amperage. Low amperage would happen if the well is pumped dry, or the line is frozen or blocked. If the pump does not shut off on low amperage when these things happen, the water in the pump gets hot and further destroys the pump. By the time an overload or breaker trips it is too late to save the pump.

Just to make sure I have a full understanding of the symptoms of a bad check valve.....so, with a bad check valve, the pump fills the pressure tank and the pressure switch shuts it off. Then the water from the pressure tank leaks back down the well because the faulty check valve does not stop the backward flow. Then the pressure drops in the pressure tank and the pressure switch turns the pump on again and the same process repeats. So the pump is not running continuously but it comes on each time the pressure tank drains because of the bad check valve. Is this correct?

 

[Valveman]

Yep.