I can't get the flapper off!

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bluebutterfly

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Hello all!
Well, I'm a bit of a newbie DIY in plumbing, and think I've correctly identified the flapper as being the source of my problems with water leaking out of the tank, etc. etc. This is a low flow toilet, American Standard, currently has a blue flapper with a float. Anyway, I watched a few youtube vids on how to remove a flapper from the "ears" it's attached to. Looked simple enough. But when I went to take my flapper off, I cannot see a way to get the darn thing off those ears. For one thing, this low flow toilet has like an interior casing, I guess to provide better water usage. It somewhat limits my ability to even get my hands in there to work. But even so, I can't see how I can get the flapper off the ears without snipping it off. It sure as heck isn't slipping off those two ears as nice an easy as all the youtube vids I've watched. I was so happy that this looked like an easy job but noooooooooooo. Anybody have a suggestion? or has anyone encountered this problem on their own flapper job? thanks! I'd hate to pay a plumber $$ just to put in a $5 part.....
 
If you can , carefully cut the flapper off the flush valve ears. The new flapper should be easier to install. Be really careful not to break the ears or the flush valve tower cutting the flapper off .
 
If you can , carefully cut the flapper off the flush valve ears. The new flapper should be easier to install. Be really careful not to break the ears or the flush valve tower cutting the flapper off .

Thank you for your feedback on this.....I may have to cut it off, yes. I see no other way to get it off. I didn't know if cutting it off was a viable option, but if you feel it is, I'm gonna try it....and I will be very careful not to damage surrounding parts. I have a very small pair of sharp scissors that just might do the job okay, or I might have some small snippers in my toolbox. I certainly haven't run across anyone else having this problem, so thought it might be something special with the specific design of this flapper or this low flow tank but for the life of me, I can't see how it would be. But then again, so many plumbing parts differ in style and size. But this looks like a standard flapper. How the previous person got it on there, I'll never know, but if snipping it is the only way, then that's what I"ll do. If anyone else would like to add some ideas to this, feel free! Thanks again, very appreciated that you gave me the confidence to at least try to proceed with the job, because I DO think the flapper is at fault.
 
They have flush valves fairly cheap, and they also have flappers that are adjustable.. these new found inventions eliminate the "bucket" looking thing surrounding the flush valves of the past..

If you just replace the flapper, its a good idea to ensure the mouth of the opening if smooth and has a good seat for the flapper..

I would replace the whole thing, personally..
 
They have flush valves fairly cheap, and they also have flappers that are adjustable.. these new found inventions eliminate the "bucket" looking thing surrounding the flush valves of the past..

If you just replace the flapper, its a good idea to ensure the mouth of the opening if smooth and has a good seat for the flapper..

I would replace the whole thing, personally..

Thanks for further feedback. At this point, I'm trying to save myself a plumbing bill if I can replace the flapper, which is a $5 part, and get the toilet working again. If I'm unable to accomplish that, I'll have to call a plumber because I don't want to tackle the flush valve myself, even tho it looks like a fairly do-able thing, but then again, so did the flapper on youtube lol....I've learned that what looks easy often isn't. If a plumber does the job I'd still try to keep it as cheap as possible, so probably wouldn't swap out the entire insides for something else unless it became absolutely necessary.
 
I just want to update everyone on my flapper problem. I did cut off the old flapper by snipping it (as it was very hardened from the water and no longer pliable). I put on a universal flapper easily and fixed that problem. Water now stays in the tanks and no more leaking from the flapper. However, I did have another problem that was going on with the flush valve sticking and not working smoothly. From reading other posts and info on this, I suspect it has calcium build up in it somewhere and can easily be cleaned out so that it functions smoothly again. My question now is: can I take the top portion of it off and clean it out? I've read posts that suggest this can be done, but I'm not sure where or what to pull off the top to get at calcium or debris that may be preventing smooth up and down operation of the flush valve. I have attached pics showing my particular setup. It's that grey lever that sticks and at this time, I'm manuallly pulling it up so that the valve functions and allows water to fill the tank. Sure am getting tired of doing that! lol....but I feel convinced that this is a simple calcium problem and don't want to hire a plumber to replace a flush valve if it's something simple. I tried to twist the top of the valve off, but didnt' want to force it...seemed not to budge. Many thanks for further info on how I can clean out this valve without taking the whole thing apart or out...twist off the top? Thanks again!

plumbing1.jpg

plumbing2.jpg
 
I suspect that you have your terminology crossed. The fill valve is what I think you are talking about, it has the black top cover and float, and a grey arm. The flush valve is the part that lets the water out of the tank and into the bowl, thereby causing the flush.

I wouldn't bother trying to fix the fill valve. Go by HomeDepot or what have you, and pick up a new FluidMaster fill valve. It will probably cost you less then $15, give or take. Turn the water off!! On the new valve, you can see a rounded collar down below the float. This collar is also present on the existing valve in your tank. Reach down and pull that collar up, it will require a bit of force. Once it is pulled up, the old fill valve will just lift off of the stem. Replace it with the new valve, making sure to set it at the same height as the old one. Push the collar back down, and make sure that it won't pull off. Reattach the black refill tube, turn the water back on, and you are off to the races.
 
I suspect that you have your terminology crossed. The fill valve is what I think you are talking about, it has the black top cover and float, and a grey arm. The flush valve is the part that lets the water out of the tank and into the bowl, thereby causing the flush.

I wouldn't bother trying to fix the fill valve. Go by HomeDepot or what have you, and pick up a new FluidMaster fill valve. It will probably cost you less then $15, give or take. Turn the water off!! On the new valve, you can see a rounded collar down below the float. This collar is also present on the existing valve in your tank. Reach down and pull that collar up, it will require a bit of force. Once it is pulled up, the old fill valve will just lift off of the stem. Replace it with the new valve, making sure to set it at the same height as the old one. Push the collar back down, and make sure that it won't pull off. Reattach the black refill tube, turn the water back on, and you are off to the races.

thanks very much for the further info. I think the part I'll be looking for would be a fill valve CAP. It's the cap portion that needs replacement and I do see online that Fluidmaster sells the valve cap. Now the trick will be to get the old cap off and get the new one on lol....but at least hopefully that will be a lot easier than replacing the entire fill valve mechanism which would have required a lot trickier work, at least for a newbie DIY person like myself. and yes, I will be SURE to turn off the water before beginning any work. Thanks again for all your help and advice! (btw, the term "flush valve" is apparently interchangeable with the term "flapper". I successfully replaced the flapper/flush valve. You are right, I thought the term "flush valve" referred to the device known as the fill valve. So, thanks for clearing that up. I also hadn't known that the fill valve cap was a separate part that could be purchased separately - I thought that whole mechanism was one part and could only be purchased as a whole, so for anyone who just needs to replace the fill valve CAP, that might be an easier fix if it's sticking like mine seems to be.)
 

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