I posted a question a year ago for help choosing a pump., finally getting around to have it installed. Part of the reply was to make and install a shroud over the pump since it's a 4" pump in a 6" hole. I searched shroud and didn't find instructions, just that they were good. Can someone point me to where I can learn how to make and attach one? Thanks.
How to make and attach shroud for well pump
- Thread starter SueInVA
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Sorry for the delay. There are several ways to make a pump shroud or flow inducer. Here is the way I do it.
Ludington
Well-Known Member
I hope your pump works after sitting out for a year, I've been told they can dry up., and why do you need this shroud ? My 4 inch pump in a 6 inch well works very "well".
As long as the well does not feed the pump from above, a 4" pump will "work well" in 6" casing. But it is the velocity of the water going past the motor that cools it so, it would run even cooler if installed in a 4" shroud or flow inducer. I install a shroud any time it will fit in the casing, then I don't have to worry if the well is top feeding the pump or not. A shroud is just cheap insurance to help keep the motor cool.
Ludington
Well-Known Member
Never really thought about which direction the water would be pulled from. But, you would think it would be much easier for the water to be replaced from the top down. And not sucked from the bottom up. But there are probably some flow dynamics for the water being pushed from below to replace the water level going down from above. I'm sure there must be a study somewhere on which way the water flows.
When the pump is set above the bottom end of solid casing or above the perforations, water will draw down from above until the static water level drops to the dynamic or pumping level, then water will start coming from below. In a rock well or one with no casing, water will come to the pump from which ever direction it enters the well. If the cracks and fissures are above the pump, the pump will be fed from above. If the cracks and fissures are below the pump, it will be fed from below, but only after the static level has drawn down. What is not known is the percentage coming from above and below at the same time until the well draws down to the dynamic level. Hopefully enough will come from below to adequately cool the motor until the static level draws down, but you can never be sure. Since the motor is on the bottom and the water intake between the pump and motor, only water coming from below will cool the motor. A flow inducer or shroud makes sure the flow always goes past the motor before entering the pump, no matter if the well is top feeding the pump or not. A shroud also works as a centralizer and protector as it keeps the pump/motor from being able to bang against the casing or rock. There are lots of good reasons to use a shroud on every pump installed. The only reason not to use a shroud is if the casing is too small for it to fit, which I consider a well design error.
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Ludington
Well-Known Member
WELL, there ya go, thanks for the lesson.
It is also not good to store a submersible motor for any length of time as you said. They are filled with a water/antifreeze solution which can leak out or evaporate right through the skin of the motor. I always flip the motor upside down, take off the bottom cap, remove the rubber diaphragm, refill with water, and reassemble before installing a motor that has been sitting for a year or more. A pump end can be stored as long as needed, but a fresh motor is best because of the possibility of low coolant level and warranty date issues.
Ludington
Well-Known Member
Pretty hard to have one on hand in case of failure, with no local access to the pump I would want. I would lean towards the grundfos sq 2 wire. (No control box) but I have to order one... the last failure had me at tractor supply to get what they had on hand.
I think the Grundfos SQ is an oil filled motor. There are other oil filled motors as well. I think the Hallmark is oil filled. Oil filled means a ball bearing instead of a Kingsbury type bearing. Kingsbury is frictionless. Ball bearings are not. Oil may not evaporate but can leak out at the seal. Motors with ball bearings that are stored, need the shaft spun every once in a while to keep the bearing from pitting or sticking. I would store oil filled motors in the upright position so the seal at the top is less likely to leak, and I would spin the shaft with my fingers at least once a year. But most motor companies spin their stored motors every month.
I don't think there is anything wrong with the County Line pumps at TC. They are probably made by one of the major manufacturers and just private labeled for TC.
