Electric Water Heater Advice...

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

This is good info! Thanks all for your input!

I did both of these “tricks” recently.

In the first case, at my father’s home, he had an old style “fuse box” with a 60A cartridge fuse block for the dryer. I ran the output of that to a small four position sub-panel, added two 30A breakers, and then ran the dryer and water heater from those.

More recently I helped a neighbor to install a Level II charger for his plug in car. The service panel was full, so we opened up two spots for the new 60A breaker by using two duplex breakers for existing circuits. We chose circuits that were 15A, non-AFCI. Problem solved. STILL no open spots, but that’s a problem for next time.

Both solutions relatively cheap and easy.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I did both of these “tricks” recently.

In the first case, at my father’s home, he had an old style “fuse box” with a 60A cartridge fuse block for the dryer. I ran the output of that to a small four position sub-panel, added two 30A breakers, and then ran the dryer and water heater from those.

That’s illegal and very dangerous.

That type work is what burns peoples homes down.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

No, it’s neither…

Sub-panel was fused by 60A cartridge fuses at main panel, no different than a breaker serving a sub panel.

Wiring from panel to sub-panel was properly grounded and 4 AWG copper wire used. Downstream 30A devices—dryer and water heater—connected properly and grounded with 8 AWG copper wire. (Dryer circuit wiring original to home)

If anything I improved the situation as the fuse block (apparently for many decades) was loaded with those 60A cartridges, but as the circuit prior to my work was only the dryer, whose wiring was for 30A only, it was incorrectly fused. THAT was a [theoretical] problem, though it had been that way for years. Now there are two 30A devices both properly wired and both protected by proper 30A breakers. These breakers are located in a 60A sub panel. This sub panel and it’s wiring protected by 60A fuses in the main panel.

All neutrals, hots, grounds properly connected with the right gauge wires. Everything protected properly. If there’s a short or overload on the water heater or dryer, it’s breaker will trip. If there’s an overload or short on the sub panel, the cartridge fuses will blow—exactly how it’s all supposed to work. Any fault or overload anywhere in this “sub-system” will trip a breaker or blow a fuse. All wire gauges matched to loads.

In the perfect world the entire panel would be replaced. New 200A drops, new 200A panel, new disconnect outside with new meter. New weather head etc. at a cost of $5,000+ The next owner of the home will do that.

 

[Twowaxhack]

No, it’s neither…

Sub-panel was fused by 60A cartridge fuses at main panel, no different than a breaker serving a sub panel.

Wiring from panel to sub-panel was properly grounded and 4 AWG copper wire used. Downstream 30A devices—dryer and water heater—connected properly and grounded with 8 AWG copper wire. (Dryer circuit wiring original to home)

If anything I improved the situation as the fuse block (apparently for many decades) was loaded with those 60A cartridges, but as the circuit prior to my work was only the dryer, whose wiring was for 30A only, it was incorrectly fused. THAT was a [theoretical] problem, though it had been that way for years. Now there are two 30A devices both properly wired and both protected by proper 30A breakers. These breakers are located in a 60A sub panel. This sub panel and it’s wiring protected by 60A fuses in the main panel.

All neutrals, hots, grounds properly connected with the right gauge wires. Everything protected properly. If there’s a short or overload on the water heater or dryer, it’s breaker will trip. If there’s an overload or short on the sub panel, the cartridge fuses will blow—exactly how it’s all supposed to work. Any fault or overload anywhere in this “sub-system” will trip a breaker or blow a fuse. All wire gauges matched to loads.

In the perfect world the entire panel would be replaced. New 200A drops, new 200A panel, new disconnect outside with new meter. New weather head etc. at a cost of $5,000+ The next owner of the home will do that.

I didn’t read it right, sorry about that.

I still don’t trust your electrical work