DIY repipe Polybutylene to Pex

[Jonlybonly]

Hello, I’m new here and had a bunch or questions and hoping to get some assistance. Recently I had a PB pipe split on me a caused a major flood in my basement. The pipe was connected to the hot water heater and the split was about 6 inches long. As a temporary fix, I connected two sharkbites and Pex B with clamps from Home Depot. I'm not super confident in the rest of the PB now, although this is my first major issue.


I'm in Georgia and on city water, not sure how that has affected the pipes over the years.


All pipes, except the showers are accessible from the basement, so l don't see this as a major issue for DIY. l've done several plumbing projects and have some experience. I have a few concerns though.

1. The PRV is original and on a union fitting, then a PB adapter. I'm sure I can find a PEX adapter, but should I replace this valve?
2. If I change the PRV, are they all the same? I can find Watts, Apollo, Sharkbite, all at Home Depot, is there a preference?
3. I think I'm just going to use the 10 foot sticks instead of a roll as I think this will make the straightest runs, any issues except the additional cost to me and the additional points of failure from the connections?
4. Clamps ok? It's Pex B and I read they are just as reliable as crimps.
5. On my shower valves, can I use the same valve or are there PEX direct shower valves? I've had very little issues with the valves, changed one cartridge about 8 months ago, but that's all.
6. I made my temporary repair with brass fittings, but l'm considering the poly fittings, it seems they are rated the same and less expensive. Any issues?

Thanks for any assistance, I think I'll be undergoing this project this next week. I'm super concerned that l'll get another catastrophic failure.

 

[breplum]

We only use PRVs with double unions because they are so easy to swap out if failed.
So even with PushFit, go with unions.
Rolls of PEX will straighten out because they have 'memory', though in 1" I too like to buy straight lengths.
Non-brass fittings are fine except at male/female which you can use to reconnect to shower valves.
I don't know what "Clamps" means, but the pinch-clamps which need special tool are fine.
Stub out with copper, NOT PEX.

 

[Jonlybonly]

We only use PRVs with double unions because they are so easy to swap out if failed.
So even with PushFit, go with unions.
Rolls of PEX will straighten out because they have 'memory', though in 1" I too like to buy straight lengths.
Non-brass fittings are fine except at male/female which you can use to reconnect to shower valves.
I don't know what "Clamps" means, but the pinch-clamps which need special tool are fine.
Stub out with copper, NOT PEX.
View attachment 47939

Thank you, I picked up everything I think I will need but sure I’ll be making several trips. I picked up a union for the PRV and purchased a Watts brand. I’m reusing the copper shower line for the upper and lower shower head and tub spout. I haven’t sweated pipes in a while but think I’ll be ok. I’m swapping out the old shower valves for a new set with different fixtures.

Hoping for the best, I’ll post finished pics.

 

[Integrity Repipe]

Hello, I’m new here and had a bunch or questions and hoping to get some assistance. Recently I had a PB pipe split on me a caused a major flood in my basement. The pipe was connected to the hot water heater and the split was about 6 inches long. As a temporary fix, I connected two sharkbites and Pex B with clamps from Home Depot. I'm not super confident in the rest of the PB now, although this is my first major issue.


I'm in Georgia and on city water, not sure how that has affected the pipes over the years.


All pipes, except the showers are accessible from the basement, so l don't see this as a major issue for DIY. l've done several plumbing projects and have some experience. I have a few concerns though.

1. The PRV is original and on a union fitting, then a PB adapter. I'm sure I can find a PEX adapter, but should I replace this valve?
2. If I change the PRV, are they all the same? I can find Watts, Apollo, Sharkbite, all at Home Depot, is there a preference?
3. I think I'm just going to use the 10 foot sticks instead of a roll as I think this will make the straightest runs, any issues except the additional cost to me and the additional points of failure from the connections?
4. Clamps ok? It's Pex B and I read they are just as reliable as crimps.
5. On my shower valves, can I use the same valve or are there PEX direct shower valves? I've had very little issues with the valves, changed one cartridge about 8 months ago, but that's all.
6. I made my temporary repair with brass fittings, but l'm considering the poly fittings, it seems they are rated the same and less expensive. Any issues?

Thanks for any assistance, I think I'll be undergoing this project this next week. I'm super concerned that l'll get another catastrophic failure.

It’s great that you’re taking on this project, but when it comes to replacing the pressure reducing valve, it’s important to ensure the new valve is compatible with your setup. If the current PRV is old, replacing it is a good idea for long-term reliability. The brands you mentioned are generally reliable, but be sure to check the pressure rating and the type of fittings for a secure connection. A PEX adapter is fine as long as it fits properly with your new valve.

 

[Jonlybonly]

It’s great that you’re taking on this project, but when it comes to replacing the pressure reducing valve, it’s important to ensure the new valve is compatible with your setup. If the current PRV is old, replacing it is a good idea for long-term reliability. The brands you mentioned are generally reliable, but be sure to check the pressure rating and the type of fittings for a secure connection. A PEX adapter is fine as long as it fits properly with your new valve.

Thanks so much! I’m making progress on this project. I removed all the PB, ran Pex in the same location when I could. I decided to sweat copper for the showers, the shower head and tub spouts. I replaced the PRV with the same rating, 25-75 and measured my current pressure.

Some problems I ran into was oddly run pipes in walls with random wood supports. The wood in the wall for the showers were random scraps, I fixed those but understand why it was done. Guess it was cheapest. Made several Home Depot trips and the wife decided that almost all fixtures needed to be changed for no good reason.

One more bathroom left and then 2 outside spouts.