couple questions on new main sewer line

[tindave]

hi guys

my name is dave, im from cleveland, and im a union sheet metal tradesman

i know thats not a plumber, but i feel i have the skill and basic structural knowledge to do anything in my own home

so my main line was backing up constantly and the city replaced our street sewer and lines to our house two years ago so i knew the problem was under my basement

i just have one of the ridgid 6-8 foot or whatever it is cameras and was able to get it in the clean out and see several issues

so i cracked my concrete , unfortunately it runs the entire lenght of my basement

so i have about a 20'by 3foot wide and 2 foot deep trench and removed all the debris

its a shame, the clay was in good shape, but the "fill" was bricks and sandstone jammed in there and snapped evry joint with earth shifts

my company also employs pipe fitters , so they were able to get me all the proper code materials

so my question

ive been reading the IPC and cant find it, there is a spot where i want the mainline to have three branches , a new floor drain(the original is at the highest point in my basement, my kitchen line, and id like to rough a basement bathroom while im in there

is there a required distance between the wye branches on the main line?

should they be staggered in direction


also im leaninf towards compactable construction sand for my base and around the pipes? yes or no?

thanks for any help

 

[tindave]

nothing?

thanks anyway

i guess im just going to go at it

 

[frodo]

what exactly are you doing

if you are replacing the old with new,,,no problem and sand as back fill is a GOOD choice

wet it a little and it will compact nicely.

be sure to use the correct proflex transissition bands

 

[frodo]

really need some kind of drawing to be able to talk inteligent about what can or cant be used,

 

[tindave]

ok,

here is my attempt at a drawing and picture going the other way

yes

replacling all, every joint is no good

the busted up clay pipe you may or may not notice is a non functioning storm line, the one that is still somewhat in tact is the sewer

 

[tindave]

drawing th rrwe

 

[tindave]

pictue other way

 

[frodo]

looks like you are on the right track, keeo the floor drain minimum of 5' away from the wye for the washer

[suds relief] and you need a vent on the floor drain

 

[tindave]

thanks if im reading you drawing correctly i can vent the floor drain to the kitchen stack?

does the new floor drain (its just for AC condensate , hosing off the floor, water tank purge, or whatever) need to be any distance from the main line (other than the trap lenght)

the old floor drain, next to the stack in the first picture is the highest point in my basenment

i cant even force water to it, plus it made a bad angle to the main line, which is where i get the most back up





and having three tie ins to the main line that close together wont be an issue?




i didnt draw it in correctly but the laundry line (second actual picture ) runs 20 feet across my basment, it leeks a little too, but for now its staying clay up to the fernco

 

[frodo]

only tie in you need to worry about keeping away from others, is the washer, because of suds, backing up a line

flor drai can vent to closest wall, looked like sink was closest

 

[tindave]

thanks

it is

went over the IPC 50 times it seems and wasnt picking that stuff up


had no idea, how complex your guys codes are

 

[tindave]

just wanted to say thanks again, as a fellow tradesman i know its not easy to tell someone how to do your job

this is a very informative place and im going to hang out a bit

anyone is more than welcome to pick my brain about HVAC, ductwork running or fabrication, anything sheet metal or welding in general

thanks for making this easy on me

dave , local 33

 

[tindave]

ok, last Q for the day, im not going to be able to complete this project for awhile , then it will be slowly and surely to make sure it is done to the best quality im capable of

are 3 90s like this stubbed up to the drain and out to the wye and obviously cemeted acceptable for my floor drain trap

 

[frodo]

your 90's are busted, over 4'' is a deap seal trap it is allowed, if approved by the inspector before instalation

when you install the tee for the vent on that trap

the vent must be 3 pipe diameters or more from the trap,

 

[tindave]

well it looks like tommorrow is gonna be the day

i got one of these fernco t handled torque wrenchs , this isnt like a regular torque wrench, its 60lbs only (im sure everyone knows that)

but there is a lever on the shaft? what purpose does it serve? will it only torque with it out?

also, im seem to be the only person in america with 5" ID clay pipe to tie into

i couldnt find that particular coupler , so i just grabbed a bunch of them

the 6" copper/cast to 4 inch plastic/cast seems to match the OD, approx 6 3/8', so i guess thats what its getting

with the floor drain , im seeing something like if its 3" with less than 1 pipe diameter slope i dont need a vent, i could be completely misinterpreting that

does it sound right?

thank you in advance for any help anyone can offer


dave

 

[frodo]

well it looks like tommorrow is gonna be the day

i got one of these fernco t handled torque wrenchs , this isnt like a regular torque wrench, its 60lbs only (im sure everyone knows that)

but there is a lever on the shaft? what purpose does it serve? will it only torque with it out?



with the floor drain , im seeing something like if its 3" with less than 1 pipe diameter slope i dont need a vent, i could be completely misinterpreting that

does it sound right?

thank you in advance for any help anyone can offer


dave

\\

the thing on the side of the tool is used for removal

yes you are correct about the 3'' fd

 

[tindave]

thanks

my first hand tool with a removal lever (seems chinsey, no wonder the site had a bunch of disocounted ones with a missing lever)

im glad i bought it though, i tried it just sticking a coupler on a piece of PVC, and i dont think i would have went that tight for fear of breaking the band clamp, but i grabbed a bunch of extrea SS ones from work in case (we use them on flex duct in certain situations)

have you come across the 5 inch clay?

well i think im going down to cut the stack soon, pretty nervous, any advice?


the wall it comes down over hangs my foundation, so it goes to a 90, then a short horizontal and another 90. i rolled a piece of 12 gauge steel , snugged it under a hub and put it in the wall with 2 3/8th drop in anchors on the vertical , then wrapped two pieces of band iron around the horizontal and mounted to the joist

so hopefully it doesnt shift or fall

 

[tindave]

found a plumbing supply with the 5 inch fernco, as soon as i asked for it he knew exactly what suburb i lived in

thats funny

 

[frodo]

most plumbers never use the handle, they use a 5/16 nut driver

I use a dewalt drill to install, you can set the torque. then the t wrench to check

 

[tindave]

i saw some drills made just for them too, i know at least a milwaulkee

i was close to seeing what it would cost, i have no impulse control when it comes to tools

i settled for the 8 bucks, reluctlantly