Could my pressure tank be the problem?

[Clag]

Thank you in advance for all input and/or help. I’ve been having issues with low and pulsing/fluctuating water pressure on the hot side, air bubbles/cloudy water and particles of sediment since hiring a company to shock my well nearly a month ago. I won’t go into details about that catastrophe again, because I already posted a thread about it. But since then, I’ve had issues that the process seemed to stir up. Trying to find a resolution, and at the very least, understand what the problem may be so that I can know who to call to fix it, a plumber or well professional. I’ve already hired a plumber to flush the water heater, but the problems persist and don’t want to keep spending money in circles. In my attempt to learn how the well pump, pressure tank, etc., works I decided to start with watching/listening to what the tank does when water is turned on/off and noticed something that seems odd, but could also be normal for all I know.

Before turning any water on the pressure gauge was at 42psi. Turned on cold water, gauge started going up, hit 50psi, switch clicked and the gauge began to go down and stopped around 41/42psi. Turned on hot water, gauge didn’t move at all until the water was turned off. Once it was turned off, the gauge began to go down and stopped at 40psi. Did this twice, same result. Is this normal?
I included a pic of where the water heater and tanks is located and a pic of the gauge before turning and clip in water.

I have a water softener and whole house filter well.

If it helps, below is more detail about the issues per room.

MASTER BATH(pressure worse here)
Hot water pressure low and and pulses in sink, shower, tub. Water also spurts from sink sometimes and when I turn on the sink and tub at the same time, the sink water pressure decreases to drips. The pulsing is most noticeable in the shower.

KITCHEN: Hot water pressure low and pulses. Cold pressure ok. Hot and cold water also have air bubbles and sediment.

GUEST BATH: Hot water pressure low and pulses. Cold pressure ok. Hot and cold water also have air bubbles and sediment.

 

[Valveman]

You have a galvanized nipple and coupling going to the pressure gauge. That nipple could be clogged and causing the gauge to respond slowly and/or not be accurate. Screw the gauge directly to the brass tank cross, or use a brass nipple that won't rust closed. If you have the same galvanized type nipple going to the pressure switch, the switch may not be turning the pump on or off at the correct time/pressure.

If you have a check valve above ground or at the pressure tank, remove it. A check above ground anywhere can cause air in the lines if the check on the pump is leaking back or there is a hole in the pipe. If that is the case, after removing the above ground check valve you will notice the pressure drop even when no water is being used. You cannot test for a leak or bad check valve with an additional check valve anywhere else in the system. The only check valve you want in a water system is the one right on the pump.