Check Valve Won't Turn

[carnobad]

I've got a simple dilemma here. I'll try to keep the whole story short though. Water leaking from base of toilet. Pulled it up to check wax ring and flange. Water is pooled up to the top of flange. Drain line goes to an ejector pump. Ejector pump is getting power, but humming, not pumping. My guess is the impeller is clogged. Was going to take the top off to look and went to close the check valve first. Can't seem to turn it by hand though. Would I be safe to leverage it with vice grips or a pipe wrench, or would I possibly damage something? I should add, something I just realized. The vent pipe for the ejector is attached to the drain pipe, not the ejector itself. Not sure if that could be related to the issues.

 

[Geofd]

Yes you can grab with a big pair of pliers , I would have a wet vac ready also close that ball valve also and unplug the ejector

 

[carnobad]

Yes you can grab with a big pair of pliers , I would have a wet vac ready also close that ball valve also and unplug the ejector

I now realize I was slightly mistaken in my description. I thought the red part was for closing the check valve. Did not know that was a seperate part. To correct my original question, it's the ball valve I can't seem to close. Or at least I don't think so. It'll only turn maybe an inch, I assume it needs to turn 90 degrees. Is that not the case? Or would it be easier to turn if I close the check valve first? Also I don't own a wet vac, but there's a sump pump directly next to it. I figure any overflow will spill into it.

 

[RS]

Yes, the red handle needs to turn 90 degrees, but don't force it, you may break something. Gently work it back and forth, it apparently has a build up of scale. The 4-bolt flange on the check valve can be taken apart to clean it out, but it sounds to me like you should call a professional.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Those red handle pvc ball valves are famous for sticking. It might break.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I’d check for voltage at the outlet. If it has a piggy back float, unplug the float and plug the pump directly into the outlet. See if the pump runs then.

Do that before turning off any valves. Or taking things apart.

 

[carnobad]

I’d check for voltage at the outlet. If it has a piggy back float, unplug the float and plug the pump directly into the outlet. See if the pump runs then.

Do that before turning off any valves. Or taking things apart.

That was the first thing I tried, I appreciate it though!

 

[carnobad]

Yes, the red handle needs to turn 90 degrees, but don't force it, you may break something. Gently work it back and forth, it apparently has a build up of scale. The 4-bolt flange on the check valve can be taken apart to clean it out, but it sounds to me like you should call a professional.

I wanted to use this as an opportunity to learn because it's kind of perfect for it. The issue is isolated to the one bathroom because it's the only system using the ejector. Plus it's in the basement which has no flooring or even walls for the bottom 2 feet (I had the basement waterproofed). Basically I can take my time with it, to an extent of course. So here's my next question though. Assuming I can get the ball valve closed, how exactly do I close the check valve? Do I turn what looks like a coupling underneath it? Or do I remove the flange to close it?

 

[RS]

You don't close a check valve, they're automatic, or supposed to be! They are supposed to allow flow in one direction, and not in the other. It really sounds like your attempting something you shouldn't!

 

[wpns]

Make sure you are turning off that ball valve in the right direction, you should see some stops that prevent you from turning it the wrong way. I get caught by this all the time.

 

[Valveman]

Might also be a start capacitor in the motor.