Can any one help me identify this old sillcock stem?

[mjbtnus]

Disclaimer: I'm a moderate DIY home plumber that tries to do his research, but I'm no professional substitute.

The handle has Mueller B&K but none of the available replacements I've found online for Mueller / B&K look like this one (with the 2 holes on the valve end). Some of the Prier's do, but not exactly.




On the side of the hydrant body, something is stamped on the metal inside a rectangular protrusion ending with "R" (the other letters didn't impress very well it seems).



As it is apparent this appears to be a 1970s hydrant (house built in 1971), I may just have to have it replaced. But if parts were available for it, I'd like a crack at it myself first. Thanks!

 

[mjbtnus]

I should add that I was able to replace the small washer on the valve tip, and that stopped the dripping. But the packing nut washer is also shot (it spews profusely out along the stem when the valve is opened up), but the handle screw is so badly rusted, I can't (yet) get the handle off to then attempt replacing the packing nut washer, assuming that I can even find a new one that is comparable. This was why I thought I might replace the whole stem.

 

[Geofd]

Try graphite packing out try a a rubber o-ring

 

[Riickk]

You could try Mechanic's trick, heating the faucet handle with a torch, to get it (and/or the screw) to release. But be careful, lot of those handles are base metal, and melt all too easy

 

[mjbtnus]

Thanks for the suggestions guys! In the end, I used a Roto cutting disc to cut the head of the handle screw off. Then, with the stem removed once again, the tip of the handle screw was still sticking out enough that after hitting it with my mapp gas torch for a bit, then immediately sticking it into cold water, that with some vice grips on the screw stem, I was slowly able to remove the rest of the handle screw. Turning to that tried and true Danco assorted washers kit from Home Depot, turns out I could replace the seat washer and the packing bonnet washer. The kit even had a replacement brass screw that fit the handle stem perfectly. Put it all back together and tightened up the bonnet and, wha la, a now no leaking hydrant! I did finally notice an "M" on the side of the base, so it appears this is in fact a Mueller/B&K sillcock valve. FWIW, the packing washer seems to have been originally fused into the bonnet (like a single part#). I hit the bonnet with the torch as well to soften up the long hardened washer and was able to finally get it to break loose, and get back down to the brass surface of the underside of the bonnet.

 

[Geofd]

That's good to hear once you doitits pretty simple