ABS -- Glue after fitting?

[gmcmurry]

I have a 4 inch sewer drain that comes out of a whole in my concrete garage then heads down to the floor. The entire piece runs vertically. There is a sanitary T in the middle with a cleanout.
I have had this house for 10 years and recently noticed that if a large amount of water was going down the drain, there was a small amount of leakage on one of the joints. Close inspection indicates that the joint was never glued.
There is no pressure to speak of.
Is there any type glue that will wick into the joint and give me a good seal? Or am I stuck with cutting out the joint and replacing everything.
Thanks!
Greg

 

[breplum]

One sort of trick: Buy ABS cement and after wicking as much moisture as you can from the joint, Squeege cement at the joint. Let dry and do again for as many times as it takes to build up a serious, thick number of layers.
It can get you years of leak free use...

 

[Twowaxhack]

You could go around the joint with a red hot flat head screwdriver and melt the pipe to the fitting. Or clean the joint with a dremel and run a bead of expoxy over it.

Or cut it out and make a legit repair.

 

[Geofd]

You could go around the joint with a red hot flat head screwdriver and melt the pipe to the fitting. Or clean the joint with a dremel and run a bead of expoxy over it.

Or cut it out and make a legit repair.

Along time ago we fusing acid waste pipe together we had a leak, the guy I was working with took a lead caulking iron heated it up and melted the pipe and fitting together I did work!!!

 

[BlueSkyHigh]

I like Twowaxhack's solution. Or you could use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Coax-Seal-Moisture-Proof-Sealing/dp/B00075J4J6
If all else fails, do the right thing which is "cut it out and make a legit repair".

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

I had a similar issue on the black ABS pipe in a bathroom I remodeled. It was a crack at the top of a waste tee, so it didn't get a lot of water and no pressure, but enough under the right conditions to cause some water discoloration on the interior wall.

I used a variety of techniques all in the hopes of repair. I think I got it. First I separated it and cleaned the crack. Then I applied some additional cement in the crack and gently clamped it together. Then I put several layers of epoxy over the joint crack. Finally I found some resin soaked fiberglass repair tape over the joint, circling the trouble area. It had to have been better than it was. I sealed and tiled the wall, and within a year my friend sold the condo.

 

[gmcmurry]

It will be easy for me to replace the entire connection, and I am ready to do that.

However, that is not my style (if you know what I mean)

I have performed 4 tests...
I bought 6 glue bottles from Amazon for $6. These are little plastic bottles with needle like applicators. Like what you use when you glue plastic.

Then:
1. I did a 50/50 mix of ABS cement and Acetone. It took forever to dry but it looks like it wicked in some but left a nice fillet of glue in the joint that after 24 hours, was solid. My test was poking the glue with my pocket knife.

2. I loaded the applicator with 100% ABS cement. It looks good but I doubt much of the ABS (medium) actually worked its way down into the joint.

3. I loaded the applicator with 100% Acetone. This seemed to wick into the joint and then after a 2nd coat, sealed over the joint with a nice fillet.
4. I used plain old super glue. Not the gel type but the regular type. It seemed to wick nicely into the joint and then after another pass, seemed to leave a nice fillet.
So I have all of them. I am guessing the super glue is the best. It is think and seemed to wick into the joint, then after a 2nd pass, filled in nicely with a clean fillet.
This problem is with my 2nd home where the pipe is completely dry. I am still not sure which one I think might work, but next trip, I will be prepared to replace everything (the right way)

Greg