1960's 3/4 galvanized pipe. Tub faucet pipe leaking at nipple

[vestaviascott]

I recently had to replace the tub faucet in our jack and jill bath. The plumbing in this bath has not been upgraded yet - hopefully we can budget for it soon but I need a temporary fix until then.

I've gotten a new 2.5" 3/4 galvanized pipe nipple to replace the old one and wrapped the threads with the gray teflon tape, about 6 turns. I then applied a good coat of T plus 2 pipe thread sealant over the tape and threaded the nipple into the rusty knuckle joint and tightened it up good. I let the connection set for 2 days before attempting a water leak test and in testing it today I have a slow leak at the nipple joint.

Any suggestions short of ripping the wall out and redoing the plumbing?

Should I try something other than galvanized into this 3/4 joint? Or try more pipe thread sealant, more/less tape, or what?

 

[breplum]

did you wrap the teflon in the correct direction.
Teflon doesn't "set" like some old style compounds.
What did the elbow threads look like?
Tightening the nipple more might do it.
We use an internal nipple tool to undertake that effort.

 

[vestaviascott]

did you wrap the teflon in the correct direction.
Teflon doesn't "set" like some old style compounds.
What did the elbow threads look like?
Tightening the nipple more might do it.
We use an internal nipple tool to undertake that effort.

Wrapped the teflon on clockwise while looking at the end of the pipe I'm wrapping. I then applied T plus 2 joint seal on top of the teflon tape.

The reason I let it set was for the T plus 2 compound. I wanted to give it plenty of time before putting it under pressure. Not needed?

The thread inside the elbow are pretty rusted. They don't look very good at all, I tried to take a dental pick and help remove the rust but I don't think it did much.

I tightened the nipple with an 18 inch pipe wrench so pretty good seal. Should I try to wrench it down more or remove, retape and reapply more pipe seal and then rewrench it on?

What kind of nipple tool and for what purpose?

 

[Twowaxhack]

It might stop by tomorrow or the next day

 

[vestaviascott]

Maybe I should try to clean up the elbow threads? WD-40 and some tool I can get from harbor freight to recut the threads?

 

[vestaviascott]

It might stop by tomorrow or the next day

Prayer? rust buildup or what?

 

[breplum]

Takes extremely special tool to chase an elbow threads. There should be 11 good threads for a tight joint, but on a tub ell not so critical due to low pressure.
a copper fitting cleaning brush can help clean rust.
No set up time with teflon paste. WD is just light lubricant and water displacement. Does nothing.
Nipple tool allows for tightening without damage to the nipple. many styles available. but if you have enough non threaded pipe to get a wrench on it, no special tool is necessary.
If you damage threads on a nipple, then get a new one.

 

[vestaviascott]

Yep, its not leaking until I activate the shower valve plunger on the faucet. That's when the pressure forces a leak.

i have enough non threaded area on this nipple I can get a good grab with the pipe wrench. Its pretty tight. I can try to get another quarter or so out of it.

Anything to the idea it will stop leaking over time? He's just pulling my chain or what?

 

[Twowaxhack]

Prayer? rust buildup or what?

Rust

 

[MicEd69]

I would suggest you get something like the brushes below and clean the internal threads the best you can. There are many people who use both Teflon tape and pipe thread sealant. However, I NEVER use both on the same joint, and in industrial applications, many piping specs specifically disallow the use of both.

If someone insists on using both tape and a paste sealant, you should apply a coat of sealant to the male threads, then wrap the tape over the sealant, and then apply another coat of sealant over the tape. But still, I would only use the sealant without the tape if I were you, after cleaning the female threads the best I could.

 

[Twowaxhack]

You can split fittings from over tightening. I suggest replacing all the steel piping with copper, brass or stainless.

 

[RickFlorida]

I had no clue that galvanized pipe is used in indoor plumbing. Did they use to be to code or still is in some places?
With my limited knowledge, I would guess if you thread one galvanized pipe onto another or another galvanized fitting, it will be nearly impossible to remove from rust later. But I guess it has to be cut off to replace?

 

[Twowaxhack]

I had no clue that galvanized pipe is used in indoor plumbing. Did they use to be to code or still is in some places?

At one time it was popular. Its not allowed for potable water in my area any longer.

I tore out miles of it in the Garden District of New Orleans in the late 80’s and replaced with type L copper all soldered joints.

 

[RickFlorida]

Thank you, I was just curious. Rust is such an issue where I live. 1.5 bocks from ocean (salt atomized in air) and high humidity. Even my stainless steel hardware rusts (just minor surface rust). And I get holes in aluminum.

An interesting way the aluminum and steel rusts here, is that it seems to rust from the inside out. So it's super, super, tricky to deal with.
Every small project is like a major project. (like replacing a A.C. condensor outside), you have to track down stainless steel tapcons for the hurricane pads, and replace all of the tiny screws with stainless steel for the body panels....and you can buy coastal rated units. It's a constant battle.

Some guys around here are installing on demand generators which costs 13K with installation. But the on demand Generators are not made for coastal conditions and rust away in 5 to 7 years. What an expensive endeavor. They could ceramic coat it or coat in in lanonlin grease is what I would do but the wealthy people are so wasteful and don't care. I just see then rust away year by year.

I should quit my job and start a business that installs on demand generators in Florida here. It's SOOOOO lucrative right now.
A lot of electricians have decided to only install on demand generators and not do any small electrical repairs because it's SOOOO lucrative.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Thank you, I was just curious. Rust is such an issue where I live. 1.5 bocks from ocean (salt atomized in air) and high humidity. Even my stainless steel hardware rusts (just minor surface rust). And I get holes in aluminum.

An interesting way the aluminum and steel rusts here, is that it seems to rust from the inside out. So it's super, super, tricky to deal with.
Every small project is like a major project. (like replacing a A.C. condensor outside), you have to track down stainless steel tapcons for the hurricane pads, and replace all of the tiny screws with stainless steel for the body panels....and you can buy coastal rated units. It's a constant battle.

Some guys around here are installing on demand generators which costs 13K with installation. But the on demand Generators are not made for coastal conditions and rust away in 5 to 7 years. What an expensive endeavor.

I live a few miles from Gulf of Mexico so I understand.