Flushometer help

[jjjaaammm]

Hi guys, this is my first post here, hope someone can provide me some insight. I did a search first, but if this topic has been covered please excuse me.

Here are some pictures of my toilet. I want to replace it with another flushometer.

Since i live in an apartment anything that involves turning the water supply off to the main line is off limits for a DIY project. I just really want to replace the bowl itself (it is baby blue).

I have a few questions:

I assume the bolt labeled (A) is the water shutoff valve to the toilet, is this correct?

Are these types of toilets even still available for home use? I looked around and have only found commercial variants that are elongated. Any suggestions would be awesome.

I am not sure what the rough-in dimension is but I assume it is smaller than standard.

Do i need to replace the valve as well, or at least the pipe running from the toilet to the valve (G to E)?

 

[phishfood]

First, thanks for posting pictures that so clearly illustrate the situation. Of particular help is the letter labels in the first picture. Now, on to the questions.

Yes, that is the shutoff. Unthread the cap on the end of the stop valve (A). There should be a slot that you can use a flat screwdriver in to shut the water off to the flush valve.

I have never seen or installed a toilet with a back attachment for a flushometer valve. All of the ones that I have installed have an attachment on top for the flushometer. It is entirely possible, though, that these type of
toilets are still available.

The standard rough in dimension for the flushometer toilets that I am accustomed to is 10" off of the back wall. Yours appears to be roughed in at 13".

IF you can find a replacement, I would try to replace all of the flushometer valve except the stop valve (A). No really good reason not to do so while you already have it all disassembled anyway.

As I see it, the biggest challenge very well could be to find a bowl that will exactly, or close to it, replace your existing bowl. If you end up using a bowl with a top attachment, it will be hard or maybe impossible to get the drop tube to line up with the attachment point. I normally custom cut each stubout to fit the individual toilet bowl, but since you can't shut the water off to the stop valve, you don't have the option of moving it closer to or farther away from the wall.

 

[jjjaaammm]

First, thanks for posting pictures that so clearly illustrate the situation. Of particular help is the letter labels in the first picture. Now, on to the questions.

Yes, that is the shutoff. Unthread the cap on the end of the stop valve (A). There should be a slot that you can use a flat screwdriver in to shut the water off to the flush valve.

I have never seen or installed a toilet with a back attachment for a flushometer valve. All of the ones that I have installed have an attachment on top for the flushometer. It is entirely possible, though, that these type of
toilets are still available.

The standard rough in dimension for the flushometer toilets that I am accustomed to is 10" off of the back wall. Yours appears to be roughed in at 13".

IF you can find a replacement, I would try to replace all of the flushometer valve except the stop valve (A). No really good reason not to do so while you already have it all disassembled anyway.

As I see it, the biggest challenge very well could be to find a bowl that will exactly, or close to it, replace your existing bowl. If you end up using a bowl with a top attachment, it will be hard or maybe impossible to get the drop tube to line up with the attachment point. I normally custom cut each stubout to fit the individual toilet bowl, but since you can't shut the water off to the stop valve, you don't have the option of moving it closer to or farther away from the wall.

thanks for the reply. I found this link from SLOAN. It looks like the 120,121,122 model is designed for a back facing mount. I could bring in a pro for this job. If I did that I would have to make the management company of my building aware and could have the water shut off to the building.

If you notice in the pic, it looks like the previous owners did the retile around the bowl without taking the toilet up.

I plan on redoing the entire bathroom and right now I am between deciding on a gut reno (by a pro) or a DIY retile, new toilet, new sink, and professional re-glaze on the tub.

Does anyone know a good place to find a replacement bowl, even used since I assume these badboys are discontinued?

 

[jjjaaammm]

Also, assuming I find a rear spud toilet, I assume the horizontal pipe (G in my picture) can be cut to length to account for the bowl being closer or farther from the wall. Would this be a correct assumption?

Also, and forgive my ignorance, if I found a new bowl, would I have to remove the old one first to double check all the measurements, or do I know all I need to know by measuring the distance of the tie down bolts to the wall?

 

[phishfood]

I don't know for certain on the first, as I have never worked on a rear spud bowl, but I would think so.

The measurement to the bolts should tell you what you need to know.