whole house water filter install

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Hello gents. I just finished up my first plumbing project. It's a whole house water filter using pro-press and flex pipes. I posted before and after pics along with how the main enters the house and connects to PEX. I ran the last pipe at a 45 as a matter of convenience. However, in hind sight I worry it may twist inside the wall over time since there's only the two copper straps holding it inside the wall. I do tend to over think everything though. Any feedback, good or bad would be great. By the way, the whole treated wood structure around it is because the wife can't stand to see pipes so I have to build a small enclosure to hide it.
 

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You could use a 3/4 copper friction clamp and thru bolt it to that peice if wood,
I don't use those flex connectors, I know the brass ones are rated for potable water, what material is that made of and what is it rated for use on???? My bad just blew up the pic and saw stainless steel on the paper label
 
You are probably going to want to modify how the support bracket is attached.
I see unused holes there.
Maybe add something in more steel to reinforce that.
Because the filter housing tends to really get stuck on after a while, and it can take very heavy twisting force to unscrew it, to change the filter cartridge.
 
You are probably going to want to modify how the support bracket is attached.
I see unused holes there.
Maybe add something in more steel to reinforce that.
Because the filter housing tends to really get stuck on after a while, and it can take very heavy twisting force to unscrew it, to change the filter cartridge.
Good eye. That bracket would have meant me using a 2x6 rather then 2x4 so I drilled two extra holes about an inch higher. It's currently held on 4 stainless lag bolts.
 
Take those u shaped clips off and put the friction clamp there
Are you reffering to the ones that are on the inside of the house? If so, that picture was taken when the house was built 5 years ago. I would need to remove drywall now. Unless you are referring to the clip I used on the pipe right about the blue filter housing.
 
Good eye. That bracket would have meant me using a 2x6 rather then 2x4 so I drilled two extra holes about an inch higher. It's currently held on 4 stainless lag bolts.
Well then, I would also suggest you get some plumbers’ silicone valve grease.
Then thinly coat the canister’s big o ring with it, and also goop up the threads of the canister and the unit it screws into.
Otherwise, after a few months or a year, it can be almost impossible to unscrew, depending on your water chemistry etc.
Also, get some extra o rings now.
If you rip one during a filter change, your water will be off, unless you have a bypass.
Also, companies come and go, and getting replacements that match exactly can be tough, years later.
 
Well then, I would also suggest you get some plumbers’ silicone valve grease.
Then thinly coat the canister’s big o ring with it, and also goop up the threads of the canister and the unit it screws into.
Otherwise, after a few months or a year, it can be almost impossible to unscrew, depending on your water chemistry etc.
Also, get some extra o rings now.
If you rip one during a filter change, your water will be off, unless you have a bypass.
Also, companies come and go, and getting replacements that match exactly can be tough, years later.
The filter kit came with the silicone. I was wondering what that was for - Now I know. Good idea on the extra O ring. I also kept an extra stainless flex line since that might be an issue if it fails. I was considering doing a bypass but the extra propress valves are spendy. Maybe when I change the filter I will add one in.
 
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