White debris in hot water

[jreimer88]

I have an electric water heater that heats water fine, but clogs faucets with white, calcium-like particles. Any suggestions on how to eliminate? I'm looking to replace water heater (if needed) with a tankless model, but want to make sure it's a water heater problem and not water. Thanks for help.

 

[sarg]

Limescale buildup in the tank.

 

[arctic bill]

I think you have hard water , even if you install tankless it will not go away.
I like the idea of doing a blow down on you hot water tank every month. so that the calcium and magnesium separate inside the hot water tank.
or install a water softener

 

[jreimer88]

Thanks for the feedback. Follow up question: what would you recommend as a cost-effective solution to reducing/eliminating the limescale? Are the descalers (wires wrapped around water pipe) effective or would I be better served by the 3M Aqua-Pure whole house scale inhibition system or something else? Also, best way to clean out what is already there? I appreciate your thoughts.

 

[sarg]

Service the tank.
Be aware the manufacturers put crappy .. sometimes plastic ... compression valves on the unit for draining. These valves will not allow the sediment to pass when "flushing". I just installed a unit and replaced the factory drain with a 3/4 ball valve made specifically to flush out the sediment.

I service my tank yearly. Drain the tank ... replace the elements ..... while the bottom element is out I have a dedicated wet vac with a 3 foot length of automotive heater hose that will go through the element hole. We have hard water and there is always sediment in the bottom of the tank. You can break up the sediment on the bottom and vacuum it out. A water wand can be used to rinse out the insides ... or you can periodically turn on the cold water entry valve to add flush water.
Most important .... while the elements are out take a flashlight and inspect your anode rod. If it is deteriorated ... replace it ... probably every three years. ( takes a 1 1/16 six sided socket ).
If your tank is now 5 or 6 years old you can bet a fingertip the rod needs to be replaced.
A good sacrifice anode in the tank will allow it to last decades....... otherwise it's a time bomb rusting from the inside out.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

Yes what @sarg said...BUT your replacement anode will probably be a flexible one, not an OEM part as shown. Rarely is there enough headroom above a tank in which to install an original. The replacements look like nunchucks!

 

[sarg]

As described.

 

[jreimer88]

Update: I failed to mention earlier that my water heater is a 1995 Rheem. I did some further reading and saw that a number of water heaters in the mid-nineties had problems with the dip tube. It would disintegrate over time leaving white pieces in the water line blocking the faucet screens. I think this is my problem. The pieces would not dissolve in vinegar, suggesting they were plastic or something other than calcium.
I'm now thinking that I'm probably better off not putting any money in a 25 year old heater and move on to tankless. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[sarg]

I agree a 25 year old tank is due for replacement.
If you're considering the "tankless" route .... first thing is if your electrical system is adequate.

 

[jreimer88]

Electrical system is 200 A service several feet away from water heater location (so not real expensive to run 8 ga. wire). I am surprised of the power requirements - 3-40A breakers!

 

[sarg]

Good for you.
I looked at one time and was stymied out of the box because I couldn't accommodate the power requirement or run new wiring.
Then I decided a standard tank unit was better in my situation anyway .... as long as I did not ignore the maintenance requirements.
The overall expense and potential "new problems" were prohibitive.

 

[FishScreener]

As to lime scale: The only realistic solution is to install a water softener.

In regard to a new water heater: That won’t solve the lime problem, and a tankless is more susceptible to the problems than a tank type. You could end up flusing the tankless multiple time per year just to keep it working. Because the scale builds up on the interior of the heat exchange tubes and decrease their efficiency.

Standard tank systems are better unless your feeding a huge demand for hot water on an intermittent basis. I installed tankless units in one place. A shower building for a camp dedicated to wilderness trail crews. They do ten day hitches in the wilderness, come back to camp and twelve to twenty people all want to take showers as soon as they can. So, I installed tankless units.

In most situations unless you have a really large family, or have installed way too many shower heads, you can’t justify the purchase and install costs of the tankless units. It depends on your energy costs but in most US locations you cannot save enough in the life of the tankless, to pay off the increased initial cost. Particularly after teh new EPA standards for energy efficiency for tank units came into play.

I typically install tank units with a thermostatic tempering valve just after it, and set the thermostatic valve to 125-F, and the tank at 160-F.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

...In most situations unless...really large family...too many shower heads...you can’t justify the purchase and install costs of the tankless units. It depends on your energy costs but in most US locations you cannot save enough in the life of the tankless, to pay off the increased initial cost.

...and yet...they keep coming for them!

 

[sarg]

I suppose it all comes back to "Added value" and what do you really gain.
Now ... after many years I understand how the systems work and can maintain the heater I have for decades.... Not that I will last that long.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Update: I failed to mention earlier that my water heater is a 1995 Rheem. I did some further reading and saw that a number of water heaters in the mid-nineties had problems with the dip tube. It would disintegrate over time leaving white pieces in the water line blocking the faucet screens. I think this is my problem. The pieces would not dissolve in vinegar, suggesting they were plastic or something other than calcium.
I'm now thinking that I'm probably better off not putting any money in a 25 year old heater and move on to tankless. Thanks for everyone's help.

I made a lot of money cleaning out hot systems of old dip tube material in the 90’s.

For a while back then I was making and installing copper dip tubes in water heaters. Several are still in operation.

Around this same time I needed 80 gal. tank in my house but couldn’t fit 80 into the space, narrow steel door ways.....and I only had one 30amp circuit. So I used two 40 gal electrics and replaced the lower thermostat of heater #1 with an upper thermostat.
I then ran the power out of that thermostat to water heater #2’s Electrical connection at the top where it’s normally connected.

This allows the heater to function electrically as one unit.