What's wrong with this Rheem hybrid WH install?

[zwell]

We just installed our first Rheem ProTerra Hybrid Electric Water Heater (PROPH50 T2 RH375-30) and what a learning experience it was for us. We worked with an independent plumber that hadn't installed a hybrid before, didn't have the correct parts on hand and was clearly rushing to complete the job.

After showing these pictures to our Rheem rep he called out the following issues that we need to fix.

• Condensate line should be CPVC or PVC with a Piping Tee to provide access opening for yearly inspection and cleaning (the plumber didn't put the garden hose in, he actually just left and that was all we could find to make sure condensate wasn't leaking out of the unit)
• Exhaust rotated so it’s free and clear of the wall
• No drip pan was installed
• Foam pad is only required on a concrete floor
• Expansion tank needs to be vertical or if horizontal it needs to be braced
• Need to get that black iron T off as it will rust and replace with brass T
• Seismic straps need to be anchored into the studs per code
• Would use flexible copper from the unit's cold water supply and hot water outlet and then finish the connection with whatever is preferred

What does everyone else think? Did we miss anything or do you all have a different opinion?

Thanks,

Shilo

 

[Jeff Handy]

There also is no pipe on the TPR valve, heading down to 6 inches from the floor.

 

[zwell]

There also is no pipe on the TPR valve, heading down to 6 inches from the floor.

Great point. Thanks Jeff. Do you have a preference for copper or PVC or something else?

 

[Jeff Handy]

I use copper, cheapo blue plastic ones or pvc are too easy to bump into and break off, while working down there.

 

[Jeff Handy]

There is a wiring connector unplugged, down by the drain valve, probably for the ignitor?
But you probably already know that.

Oops, I don’t see gas lines, so must be all electric.

Anyway, that connector does something!

 

[breplum]

The red handle cold water supply valve at the top is cheap junk. Replace with name brand quarter turn lever handle valve. While at it, swap out the glav. nipple for a 3/4" brass nipple.
When doing the expansion tank work as your inspection noted, also put in a shutoff and drain so that when the expansion tank goes bad (they all fail before the end of life of WHs), all you have to do is shut off/isolate at the exp. tank, drain right there at hose bibb and swap out the exp. tank.
You can use a 3/4" brass tee and add appropriate valves.
You should not be paying for the plumber to correct these defects.
That plumber performed incompetent and substandard work.
They should have it corrected for free and you should file a complaint with state board.
Call Terry Love Plumbing in your area for competent, experts.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Terry Love has a great plumbing forum, also.

 

[fixitron]

There is a wiring connector unplugged, down by the drain valve, probably for the ignitor?
But you probably already know that.

Oops, I don’t see gas lines, so must be all electric.

Anyway, that connector does something!

It was described as a hybrid in the original post. The grille on the top of the heater is another indicator.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Fixitron, there are also gas/electric hybrid water heaters, not just all electric.

The unplugged wire near the base might be for a leak sensor.

 

[fixitron]

I did not know that, so I learned something new today. Here in Vermont the push is to get away from fossil fuels and to use renewables such as solar electric. All of the incentives, rebates and sales on hybrids has been for electric only.

 

[zwell]

I use copper, cheapo blue plastic ones or pvc are too easy to bump into and break off, while working down there.

Thanks Jeff. Great points on the risk of breakage.

 

[zwell]

The red handle cold water supply valve at the top is cheap junk. Replace with name brand quarter turn lever handle valve. While at it, swap out the glav. nipple for a 3/4" brass nipple.
When doing the expansion tank work as your inspection noted, also put in a shutoff and drain so that when the expansion tank goes bad (they all fail before the end of life of WHs), all you have to do is shut off/isolate at the exp. tank, drain right there at hose bibb and swap out the exp. tank.
You can use a 3/4" brass tee and add appropriate valves.
You should not be paying for the plumber to correct these defects.
That plumber performed incompetent and substandard work.
They should have it corrected for free and you should file a complaint with state board.
Call Terry Love Plumbing in your area for competent, experts.

Breplum, that's really great advice as always. Yeah, it's on us that we didn't have a better game plan going into this job. It's a great lesson learned and now we'll have some awesome before and after pictures. We'll know what not to do and have a standard for what we expect each job to look like.

 

[zwell]

Here's the work we did to fix the previous water heater installation. We'll be ducting this next week because the heat pump throws off quite a bit of cold air. If anyone has any suggestions we always love the feedback.

 

[Zanne]

I hope you got some $ back from the plumber. I would have called him & given him the list from Rheem to give him the opportunity to do it properly (without charge since he didn't do it properly), but it looks like you got it fixed up already.