What are these water heater connections?

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coplumbo

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Looking at the top of this Rheem PowerVent 2 tank-style 40 gallon natural gas water heater, there appear to be three pipes.

One of the copper pipes is uninsulated, so that should be the cold water intake.

The other two pipes are both insulated, so it seems like they are hot water outputs.

Yet, according to Rheem's technical support, they have never made a water heater with two hot water outputs.

Can anyone explain the three pipes on the top of this water heater?

Also, what is that metal flap just above the yellow label?

What water heater is a suitable replacement?

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The insulated pipe on the left is your hot water.
the insulated pipe on your right is your cold water supply.
the uninsulated copper pipe is the discharge for your temperature and pressure relief valve , a safety device that will open if the pressure and the temperature of the water heater gets to dangerous levels.

that is the brass valve with the metal flap (as you call it) that has the piece of yellow paper attached to it.
That metal flap is to manually open the valve I do not recommend doing this unless you are prepared to replace it.
 
The insulated pipe on the left is your hot water.
the insulated pipe on your right is your cold water supply.
the uninsulated copper pipe is the discharge for your temperature and pressure relief valve , a safety device that will open if the pressure and the temperature of the water heater gets to dangerous levels.

that is the brass valve with the metal flap (as you call it) that has the piece of yellow paper attached to it.
That metal flap is to manually open the valve I do not recommend doing this unless you are prepared to replace it.

Thanks so much. Very much appreciated.

What confused me is that the uninsulated copper pipe extends partway down the side of the water heater, and then has a 90 degree elbow that goes into the interior wall. So I thought it was cold water intake. I'm no expert (obviously), but I've never seen an overflow go into a wall.

Does that change your assessment, or does that mean I have a really good setup where the overflow somehow gets routed 30+ feet outside (which would be the closest exterior area)?

Any idea why they insulated the cold water input? That confused me too.

You mentioned to not have someone flip the pressure release flap unless I want someone to replace the valve. I have no intention of flipping it (I can't even reach it), but just to learn, why would it probably need to be replaced if it is flipped?
 
debris, in the water will get in between the rubber diaphragm. 1 grain of sand will cause a drip

only solution is to replace it, can not be cleaned..cost, $30.00 [mark up $50.00] plus installation could cost $200.00 easy

the T&P valve {temp% pressure} is routed outside because of code.

if it does blow off, the hot water could burn you,

look outside at that area, you will see a pipe with a 90 on it about 12'' off the ground

look at it every now and then for drippage. if you see drippage, call a plumber
 
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debris, in the water will get in between the rubber diaphragm. 1 grain of sand will cause a drip

only solution is to replace it, can not be cleaned..cost, $30.00 [mark up $50.00] plus installation could cost $200.00 easy

the T&P valve {temp% pressure} is routed outside because of code.

if it does blow off, the hot water could burn you,

look outside at that area, you will see a pipe with a 90 on it about 12'' off the ground

look at it every now and then for drippage. if you see drippage, call a plumber

Thanks so much. So does that T&P valve get opened automatically if there is a temp or pressure issue?

I found a tiny 2"x2" x 1"diameter 90 degree pipe on the exterior. I always thought that was for an air conditioner condensation output. Learn something new every day.

If the T&P valve is closed, can water ever exit through that overflow line?
 
it is a emergency blow off keeps your house from being damaged


th


water heater with capped valve
 
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