Underground drainage for downspouts, water softener, condensate

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Hi guys, I’m new here. I’m trying to design an underground drainage system for our downspouts. I want to make sure that I use the correct fittings, clean-outs, etc. It’s a 2-story house with 1-story sections and so I would like to try to re-pitch the gutters on the 2nd story to direct all the water from the 2nd story into the new drainage system on one side of the house. And then only have the downspouts draining the garage roof to drain separate from the new drainage system. I’m planning on using 4” S&D PVC pipe, schedule SDR35. I’m worried about clogging leaves, roof gravel, etc, both around the chimney and also in the underground section. I thought about using an in-line catch basin instead of clean-outs so that I could reach in and remove debris, but I’m not 100% happy with the material because they seem to be made of polystyrene rather than PVC and I’m not sure if they can be made watertight. The manufacturer lists the PVC fittings as “solvent-weld sewer & drain,” but I saw a YouTube video where the guy uses pipe dope. Specifically, he uses Hercules Pro Dope but he states in the comments that he doesn’t really like it and Hercules Megaloc is great. I like the idea of the parts being adjustable, rather than a permanent weld which I may mess up since I’ve never glued PVC pipe before, but I’m unsure if that is approved by the manufacturer. I’m also wondering if vents are required since this is draining to daylight? I want to make sure it flows really well and doesn’t slow down so much that if overflows near the house. Our septic doesn’t have vents and flows fine, so I’m unsure if they’re required or not to keep the water flowing. I’m also wondering how to pitch the wye fitting that sits at the bottom of the downspout, without tipping the top part and therefore making the downspout not plumb?

I also would like to run a line from the basement into the new drainage system. This line will be used for the dehumidifier, as well as a future heat pump water heater, 2 future heat pumps and a future water softener. The dehumidifier and heat pump water heater will run all year long. The pipes will not be below the frost line, so I’m thinking maybe I can drain those 2 appliances into a container with a pump and install a switch so it only pumps out when the water softener runs? I’m worried about creating a plug of ice in the line. We have a boarded-up basement window under the deck and very near the well water holding tank, so I think this will be a good place for the pipe to exit the basement without cutting a hole in the block wall. I think it will be 5”-8” below grade when it exits the basement, sloping down to 18” below grade where it meets the rest of the drain. I am unsure of what type of fittings will be required in the basement and if it will be too close to the ceiling to accommodate these appliances. The manufacturer of the Sewer & Drain pipe makes a coupling to transition from 4” S&D to 3” Schedule 40. I’m unsure what size pipe is required in the basement. Even though the drawing shows that the pipe will come straight out of the basement, I’m unsure if I will be able to get it straight from the new drainage into the basement. I’m also wondering if a trap is required or what will keep insects, mice and cold air form entering the basement?

Thanks very much for all of your help. I know it’s a lot of questions.
 

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I'm not taking time to read your entire piece but:
NO pipe dope for putting fittings together. Glue/solvent cement.
Sweep fittings are much better than tight Tee on cleanouts.
Avoid the four 90s around chimney. 45s are much better, even if you have to use two at every 90, or add cleanouts along the way every 90. Maybe use one of those trap/grate/cleanout fittings in basement. Or a good 12"x12" cast iron floor sink with a cleanout flush with the basement floor
 
That’s for your response. I didn’t like the look of those 90’s going around the chimney either, even though they are “long 90’s.” But I was having trouble visualizing how I could fit eight 45’s there without it sticking far out from the face of the chimney. I feel like if I make the pipe between the 45’s short so it doesn’t stick out too much, it’s not much different from a long 90.

Where would the clean-outs normally be located? Before the turn in the run, or after? I’m thinking before if I’m going to use the wye for a clean-out.

As far as the pipe coming from the basement, the basement floor is about 7 ft below grade, so this pipe will be exiting the basement closer to the basement ceiling.
 
Cleanouts generally every 135 degrees change of direction, but, know that what you are calling long sweeps are actually short compared to plumb ing drainage. an ABS or PVC DWV plumbing 90 has much easier sweep for snake or jetter. 1690253190375.png
 
Breplum, thanks for the info and your feedback. I tried using eight 45’s. I pulled them far away from the chimney instead of running them tight. I’m just not sure how I’m going to secure this since it’s going high on the wall. The chimney is not in great shape either. Let me know what you think of this set-up. Also, I have another downspout where I was going to use a long 90. I changed to two 45’s. I was just thinking that less fitting would be less crevices for leaves and seeds to get caught. Thoughts?

Sawguy, that looks great! I thought about 6” after the 2 downspouts meet, but it’s a lot more expensive and I would need a lot of it. I don’t see any clean-outs. How do you prevent leaves, etc from getting into the drains? I took all the screens out of our gutters because the pine needles and maple seeds went right through them and then turned into dirt.
 

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Solved the leaf problem by just having pine trees. Lol. Actually the green 6" pipe was pretty inexpensive. I have two runs out the front into the lake (about 50'). The rest run about 100' to the east and out the side of a hill.
 
I need to add to this. When I originally did this, it was in 2011 when the house was built. It burned down 3 yrs ago and I had to re-hook up to the existing ( what was left of it) pipe. So I guess twowax is correct...I only had to add maybe 30' of pipe. that was before COVID price increase.
 

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Sorry to hear about the fire. That stinks. I’m looking at about $650 right now for 4” PVC schedule SDR35, not even schedule 40, at HD prices. As soon as I finalize the plan I’ll shop around. I wish I had done this 3 years ago.
 
Sorry to hear about the fire. That stinks. I’m looking at about $650 right now for 4” PVC schedule SDR35, not even schedule 40, at HD prices. As soon as I finalize the plan I’ll shop around. I wish I had done this 3 years ago.
You might should get a quote from a plumbing supply house. Call all of them
 
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