Toilet Sink Leaking [Can this be fixed by a noob?]

[diy]

Hi,

I am attaching a picture and a recording of my toilet sink. I would like to get some ideas on if I can buy some parts from Lowes and fix it myself or should I just as a professional to fix it. And Do I need to replace the whole toilet?

Thanks very much!

 

[Twowaxhack]

You need one of these.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidma...mtAttfQHX2UT_ysTIchoCsvgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
And one of these.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/KOHLER-1-i...ae-xa_xW-OrHT8I_5oxoCAh0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Both will be available at Lowes or Home Depot.

The little black hose should terminate into the center of the black flushvalve that it’s hanging next to.

 

[diy]

@Twowaxhack Wow, thanks for replying. Are the two things you pointed out the exact models? How can you tell by just looking at the picture I attached?

My original seal is color red. And it has been leaking, but not too much. If i can that yellow seal you pointed out, how do I put it in? I mean the red seal seems like it's glued in. Do I need to get some glue to glue the yellow seal in?

And my water supply is controlled by some flimsy thingy (please see picture attached). I think I can stop the water supply by pulling it out a little -- But I have always been concerns that If I pull it out too hard I can destroy it and create a big mess. Anyways, Is that right that I can stop the water supply by pulling that thingy out?

 

[Twowaxhack]

Yes those are the two parts you need.

I can tell those are the parts you need because those are the two most common repair items for your toilet given your complaint.

The packages have instructions on them or you have watch a video on how to replace the fluidmaster 400 and the Kohler flush gasket..

Those stop valves push in and pull out. They’re crap but it’s what you have. It’ll probably work.

Always be able to turn the water off at the main when doing repair work if there’s an emergency. I always locate the main water valve before I touch the fixture stops.

 

[diy]

Cool. It looks like I could attempt to fix this myself.

For the Fill Valve, I looked at the pictures on Home Depot's site. The main picture doesn't show the black hose you had mentioned, but there is another picture that shows it. Is it because it's optional?

 

[Twowaxhack]

It’s not optional for your toilet. You need it.

 

[diy]

So does the Fluidmaster 400A Universal Toilet Fill Valve you pointed out include the hose (even though the main picture doesn't show the hose?)

 

[Twowaxhack]

So does the Fluidmaster 400A Universal Toilet Fill Valve you pointed out include the hose (even though the main picture doesn't show the hose?)

Yes, and it has instructions included.

 

[diy]

Great Thanks very much @Twowaxhack!

 

[diy]

It’s not optional for your toilet. You need it.

I am finally doing this. I have the parts. The seal was easy to change.

Now I need to unscrew the old toilet fill valve off the toilet. I have taken a picture of the current set up.

Can I just unscrew #1?

Or do I need to unscrew #5 first, and then #2, then #5?

I don't know what to do with #3.

 

[MicEd69]

What you have is one of those "wonderful" push-pull valves with a factory crimped on hose. As you may understand, my putting wonderful in quotes, that really means they suck!

Assuming the valve works, pull it out to close the valve. Then flush the toilet and siphon, dip, or soak the remaining water out of the toilet tank. Then remove nut #1 only leaving the remaining connection in place. I assume connection #5 is for a bidet attachment?

After that, remove the nut that is above #1 and that will allow you to remove the old fill valve from the toilet tank. Install the new fill valve and reconnect nut #1. Hopefully, the rubber washer inside the tee at #1 will not leak. If it does, I'm not sure if you can replace that washer or if it is molded in place. If it is not replaceable, you will need to replace that tee. You then run the risk that the rubber washer at #2 may leak. If that happens, the "wonderful" angle stop valve will need to be replaced, and that is kinda a major deal looking at your picture.

Good luck.

 

[diy]

What you have is one of those "wonderful" push-pull valves with a factory crimped on hose. As you may understand, my putting wonderful in quotes, that really means they suck!

Assuming the valve works, pull it out to close the valve. Then flush the toilet and siphon, dip, or soak the remaining water out of the toilet tank. Then remove nut #1 only leaving the remaining connection in place. I assume connection #5 is for a bidet attachment?

After that, remove the nut that is above #1 and that will allow you to remove the old fill valve from the toilet tank. Install the new fill valve and reconnect nut #1. Hopefully, the rubber washer inside the tee at #1 will not leak. If it does, I'm not sure if you can replace that washer or if it is molded in place. If it is not replaceable, you will need to replace that tee. You then run the risk that the rubber washer at #2 may leak. If that happens, the "wonderful" angle stop valve will need to be replaced, and that is kinda a major deal looking at your picture.

Good luck.

Thanks for the reply.

Yes. #5 attaches to bidet.

And that water turn off/on valve is a pain -- I am always afraid I will break it by pulling it too hard lol -- or pull out the entire pipe inside the wall.

I had to remove #5 first, since turning #1 will turn the water line attached to #5. Then I remove #2. Then finally #1. I got a little cut in the thumb. Oh well. But luckily there no real big mess.

I ran into issues here and there, finding the necessary tools to loosen a tight knot, etc. And finally I fixed this leak after postponing it for 4 years. This helps me understand how a toilet water system works, lol.

 

[MicEd69]

Yes, those push-pull valves are a pain. I would have expected nut #1 to be like nut #2, but if it wasn't, you did what you had to do. Just monitor those joints as the rubber gaskets get hard and sometimes don't seal well after being removed and reattached. For "normal" multiturn or 1/4 turn angle stops with a 3/8" compression connection, I usually just replace the hose and not worry about reusing old hoses that may leak. So instead of a $10 fix, I spend $15 with new supply lines. But you can't do that with your "wonderful" push-pull valve. Damn the luck!